Are those big red bars in the pic above the toe link? That just holds the alignment better under heavy load? Is that the idea?

 

I did not think that Tarret made boots? I sourced mine outside of Tarret from
http://www.sealsit.com/rodendboots.asp..

20,000+ miles and not tears or damage that I can see. (when I see it since the car is not owned by me anymore).

Cheers,

Mike

 

Mike, I misspoke. I too ordered them from sealsit but they're shot. My guess is I installed them incorrectly and they got pinched.

JPS, yes, those are upgraded toe links. It really firms up the rear end and makes it easier to adjust when the car is at RS ride height.

 

Well at least they are easy to replace - once you get them on - that part requires a bit of stretching... :-)

 

Yes, the stock eccentrics aren't up to the task of locating rear end for track use, so you use a mono-ball toe link and lock out the eccentric, adjustment is then made w/ the turnbuckle arrangement.

I bought the Tarrets toe links w/ boots, they are fine so far

 

You may have to check a bit more for wear - the surfaces are Teflon/metal wearing surfaces, and I am not sure of the longevity as compared to conventional greased ball joints. Assuming they do not get dirty (with the boots) do they last as long as the original parts?

 

I went with the Rennline toe links, seemed to be of good quality. I added the sealsit boots also. Photo shows one toe link without boots, one with boots and after installation. I have only 2 track days and some road miles but car seems a bit more planted and predictable in the rear now.

 

First let me clarify that RS sway bars will fit a 4S. I have this exact setup and it is highly recommended to fight the under steer that you will see in this car.

Looking at your objectives, I would rather spend money into instruction than the car. The coil over will be nice and the only thing you may need at this time for the suspension "while you are in" are adjustable sway bars and maybe some new bushings if the old ones are tired. With this setup, learn to drive what you have. Do not be shy to pay for pro instruction. It is very rewarding with a car setup like this to chase higher horse power cars because you are a better driver.

If you decide to stay in the DE game here would be my next investments that are all around safety:

1. Aggressive brake pads and better fluid
2. Bucket seat, roll bar and 6 point harness; do not drive a 6 point without HANS. They became so affordable ...


The final evolution would be better tires (R compound); learn to drive street tires at the limit constantly and you will get more from stepping up to stickier tires.

If you are still into this expensive hobby when you have done all the above, you will consider another car and as it has been said before, it will most likely not be a 993 due to the high expense of upgrades. You can by a well sorted Spec Boxster for 25 to 30kUSD and they are fun to drive in the right hands.

 

Thanks for your advice
Thinking rs sway bars, rs wheel centers, changing the drop links, toe and control arms and replacing the bushes.

As for driving skills, posted a vid recently on rl on spa francorchamps, not shy to learn. Check it out and let me know. Switched recently to Michelin semi slicks as I felt being at the limit of the normal street tyres.

 

should the collar be on the top or bottom of the drop links? or best on bottom ends?

 

A lowered car should have the sway bar under the toe link then connected to the drop link. The shock collar should be perpendicular to the chassis to avoid it walking/loosening from track use.

 

Agreed,

RS drop links should be used otherwise something like this could happen:

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=24812

Should like like this with the RS link: Pic from one of Bill's previous posts

 

As Bob says, over/under it depends on height and the shock
My car is very low so it runs under w/ curved drop links, the mount needed to be in the lowest position w/ long tangs, other shocks will different


Most Bilsteins I've seen run over w/ shorter drop links and or a higher mounting position.

JMO, but collars shoud be on both sides of the drop link mount, ie top and bottom

 

Seems odd to me that even with the RS drop links, you still need some home made bracket in order to connect it to the shock, is this due to the different mounting positions on the shocks compared to standard or RS shocks ? Any idea in combination with the kw's ?

 

oh wow, i didnt even notice that. now i want to rush home to see if my sway is under the toe link. if it is above, does it bang against the toe link?

i'm on motons with trg curved drop links. my collar is on the bottom. i'm near RS height. do i need to change it around?