Bill Verburg

w/b turbo and C2/4S all use the same inner chassis as n/b and also the same suspension components, including swaybars.

then there are the really wide body cars like GT2 and RSR, these cars use the same rear suspension parts but in the front the side pieces mount in the outer holes rather than the inner, on these, suspension is the same except for the front sway bar which needs to be longer . The inner tie rods apparently have enough adjustment range to accommodate either mounting position for the sidemounts.

If you are building a track only car use mono-ball bushes on all suspension arms they are as precise and friction free as possible though are subject to increased maintainance costs. This is what was used on RSRs

If building a dual use car use hard rubber bushes on all suspension arms except the rear toe arms are where mono-ball & locks are very desirable. These are a step looser than monoballs but still several steps above the stock rubber bushes used on street cars, there is no maintainance w/ these. Cup cars used these.

p/u bushes can be precise and noise and friction free but they rely on lubrication and will wear and make noise w/o proper lubrication. Porsche tried p/u on their race cars back in the '70s and found it to be an undesirable material for this application even though the cars used far fewer bushes in those days . If you know better than the factory engineers by all means use p/u bushes.

RS wheel carriers and outer tie rod ends are a system that corrects bump steer on lowered cars, If you are building a track car you want the suspension heights to be ~100mm/100mm +/-, RSR was 104mm/93mm, GT2 Evo was 96mm/92mm, mine is 100mm/104mm stock RoW M030 is 144mm/127mm +/-10mm, as the car is lowered from this latter height, bump steer becomes an increasing issue, Similarly in back using solid flat sidemounts corrects for bump steer there as well as eliminating the sloppy soft rubber sidemounts found there. Going low also puts additional stress on the CV joints so RSR and GT2 ducted cooling air to them similar to what was done for brakes

bobt993

Bill, the NB tie rods do not work with the RSR setup. You need GT2 tie rods and EVO uprights to move the suspension out and a bit of machining in the pedal section. The brake lines also have to move a bit, but usually you can just bend them a bit.

vanguard

pvdw, buy my car and call it a day. probably cheaper in the long run.

https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...street-rs.html

Bill Verburg

GT2, GT2EVO, RSR and RS, Cup are all the same uprights w/ the short arm

RS, RSR, GT2, GT2Evo, Cup all use the same straighter outer tie rod

RS, GT2 use harder rubber on the inner connection to the outer

Cup, GT2Evo, RSR use a spherical joint on the inner connection to the outer

I inferred that these inners are all the same because I have GT2 Evo inners on my n/b car. And thought that the extra length necessary for the RSR/GT2 could be found in the adjustment. I could easily be wrong, as I haven'tt actually measured them.

RS/Evo/RSR on the right, stock on the left


stock top, GT2Evo/RSR bottom

stock top RS bottom

bobt993

Bill,

I can only go on having done a couple of conversions of a NB 993 to RSR width. BTW interesting info on the CV cooling. I get the air over the inner joint, but don't buy the cooling effect on the outer CV since it is buried in the wheel hub. I thought the center venting is supposed to help with that. I going the route of REM finishing a set and if I still have issues will buy the custom ones made with chromoly.

ninjabones

^^^^^^^^^ This...

Sell your car for $38k, and buy this car for $35.5K (with about $20K of upgrades already in it). You could remove the front drive-shaft and convert to 2wd down the road if so inclined.

pvdw

Great car vanguard !
Tempting...
Two issues however (or three)

First one: import tax regulations would mean 30% on top, which is a whole lot of badly spend money if you ask me...

Second: 3.6 instead of 3.8 (which is nice once you have it...) and silver instead of yellow (same goes here, but that's personal taste and preference...

Last and foremost, I've grown attached to "my 993", very unreasonable and subjective but the again, I never claimed to be reasonable (would start the project if I was, objectively looking at things )


Still tempted nonetheless, can you send me some more detailed pics, do you have Dyno and compression graphs? Std gearratio's ?

Martin S.

"I didn't think the RS sways etc would fit an wide body, specially in the back." Perhaps they do if my experience is any indication.

I had a Turbo 21mm rear bar on by NB car, it fit fine. I now have 20mm 993RS bar on the rear, and Tarrett Engineering adjustable drop links.

At least that is what my feeble brain recalls.

JPS

Damn. Nice.

Bill Verburg

I'm feeling a little guilty about a comment I made Rennline monoball/camber plates back in post #6

I bought their rear mounts for my car, nice design that uses the factory RS seals and FK or Aurora replacement bearings that can be locally sourced if necessary



the front monoball is of similarly good quality also using the factory RS seals, I just don't like the sliding style of camber plate having had a bad experience w/ them in the past. I'd rather have the rotating style as used on th RS and by ERP and Mode etal.
ERP, no seal


RS/RSR, w/ seal from Bob Gagnon

pvdw

Thanks for the info Bill, as your post on the rennlines had put doubts in my head... Considering your expertise I was wondering why you didn't like them.
Where can the RS/RSR WITH SEAL be sourced? Any idea in Europe ?

pvdw

My KW's just came in ! Looks like a very nice and well build set...
So I need to forward with the rest of it.
So RS wheel carriers and RSR tie rods.
Looking at all the good comments on walrod bushings, I' still tempted to go for these but would want to check prive on the cup bushes you spoke about, do you know the part reference for these ? Same for the monoball with locks rear toe arms.
Greatly appreciate the help!

Bill Verburg

Any Porsche dealer

Bill Verburg

Geolab has a source in Europe for the sport hardness rubber bushes, ON mine I bought all new factory RS rear arms and in front bought the sport hardness bushes from Elephant racing




I'm using Tarret rear toe links w/ locks and boots, Rennline has a similar product

Paddy

Bill, how are your Tarret toe link boots holding up? Both of mine failed within one year. Maybe, I installed them incorrectly?