I just thought I would post an update on my attempts to fix this issue. I have a LWF with the Steve Wong 911 chip c/w LWF mod. The ISV has been cleaned and turned up which did not resolve the occasional stalling. Changing driving habits does but I still got caught now and then. Most recently I changed the plugs (unknown mileage - looked to be in good shape) and have not stalled the car in 3 outings driving the car across town. During the plug change I managed to run the battery flat dead so I am not sure what has made the difference but I will guess it was the computer reset. Obviously there is not a mechanical issue causing the stalling. I've got my fingers crossed that things will be better now although the occasional hunting when coming back to idle is still there.

 

Matt, check _very_ carefully for any possible vacuum leaks. I've been told that they are likely to cause stalling issues with LFW. I've sold my previous car (with LFW) before I managed to figure out stalling issues but it drove me nuts even after cleaning the ISV, adjusting it, adjusting my driving habits.

My conclusion after a couple of years with LFW were this: as much as I like it - it's not for city driving DD car.

 

Note to self: No LWF when I do the clutch later this year.

 

I have the LWF with Steve Wong chip, cleaned ISV, changed plugs and more. My car no longer stalls, UNLESS, lights are on, and/or air/heater is on. Next step is to adjust ISV.

I love the LWF, it helps bring the revs back up going into 2nd.

 

Get yourself some H.I.D,s there is less noticibley less drag on the alternator when lights are on .unexpected instant fix for my lwf lights on stalling issues

 

Ed, the Andial mid-weight flywheel is the perfect compromise (and I have a NIB one in my garage for sale if you're interested).....

 

I have heard good and bad stories about the Andial MW flywheel .. some folks say it's very noisy, but I've heard the same complaints about the RS factory FW as well .. what's your experience? Is that the flywheel you have in your 4S? Why do you have an extra Midweight NIB? (nosey .. )

 

Thanks, but I'll stay stock when I do this.

 

+993.


Andreas

 

I run the Andial MWF and have no noise at all. If you lug the engine below 2000rpm than you can hear some noise. Regular driving not a sound. It's the best option for a 99% street driven 993. I have driven 993's with a factory LWF and they are noisy compared to the MWF. Where do you get your info? Clearly not from people that have owned or put much seat time in many 993's.

 

Clearly.

 

I would spend the extra $$$ for the MWF if I had to do it again. there were none around when I did mine either. I have almost no gbx rattle for some reason. it may have something to do with the gbx mods.

 

Granted my stalling issues haven't been too bad even with a stock chip, but I never found city driving to be that difficult. And actually, call me crazy, but I just adjusted the clutch helper spring all the way out and I find the *slightly* heavier pedal to be easier to modulate. I'd recommend trying it out to anyone who's having a harder time with city driving, it's just a few minutes with a screwdriver and a 4mm allen wrench. For me, the worst part of the LWF is the noise.

I've driven a car with the Andial flywheel and my car (RS) back to back, and I didn't find there to be a huge difference. Definitely not $1000 worth of difference, not to me at least.

 

I think the noise , or lack there of,has more to do with what engine & tranny mounts you using. I believe the difference is $700.00. That is what Andial charges for the 7lbs ring that bolts onto a factory LWF. That is the only difference. I was also able to reuse my old OE PP. That alone is $400.00. So the net difference was $300.00.Totally worth the extra money.IMHO

 

A search will show that there are some who say it is noisier. But, I suppose those people don't have any seat time in their cars.