chaoscreature

So, due to some transmission ailments I am thinking about re-gearing the old girl while the transmission is out of the car.
Being on a tight budget I have come up with the following idea based on the two requirements:
Reduce the awful RPM drop into 2nd. Tighten up the gear spread in general, maintain my "cruising gear" for freeway hauls.

To try and keep the cost down I played around with all the different combinations of "stock" gears available and came up with the following gearing chart (Bill V., I stole your chart format... sorry).

The gears are made up of the following:
1st gear: 3.818:1, Stock
2nd gear: 2.250:1, Custom
3rd Gear: 1.560:1, From a G50/21
4th Gear: 1.212:1, From a G50/30
5th Gear: 0.973:1 From a G50/33
6th Gear: 0.775:1, Stock

So for this project i will need 1 custom gear, 3 good used gears and I will re-use my 6th gear. I think the shifting spreads and RPM drops look pretty decent.
What do you guys think though? This will be my first and probably last re-gear so I need to do this right.
Is the steel synchro for 2nd worth the ungodly amount of $$$? Being mostly an autocrosser this is the gear I am most often going in/out of. Is there any negative side to using steel synchros in these transmissions?

Thanks!

chris walrod

Only downside to the steel syncros is the increased effort to get that cluster speed to match upon gear shifts. However, it is hardly noticeable when shifting in anger

KaiB

I have a short box in my 964 and think this is the most effective mod a guy can make (race classification limits aside).

Were it me, I'd shorten the entire box even more. If you can "affofd" it, it would be lovely to find a top gear you can live with (rpms at highway speed) and work backwards.

I do like your idea though - and have no problem with the long gap up to sixth (why not). We have no need for anything over 150mph really.

You won't notice the steel syncros, although Chris has a point. This could be addressed, ummm, while yer in there with a smaller, lighter clutch and flywheel assy which really lowers the moment of inertia, increases throttle response and lightens the load on the geartrain.

matt777

A regear is a great thing. I don't have my gear ratios handy so can't comment too much other than to say that you can stand a bit bigger % drop in the lower gears than the upper gears. You might want to think about moving 5 to 6. I think the stock 6th is too high (unless you cruise at over 80 mph) and the stock 5 is a tad low. I purchased a used gear set (0.821 IIRC) that I haven't installed yet.

Gerry Kokoszka

I agree RPM drop in 2nd gear is awful. This is not an inexpensive thing to do and/or redo. If there is someone you know nearby who has done this, I suggest you befriend them and try to get a ride. If not, I am a little bit north of you in Orange County. I did the regearing a little differnet. I have the 2nd gear you are planning. All gears are changed except 1st. I really like the shorter 6th. I have the .821 that matt777 mentioned he purchased. It was a pleasant surprise as it makes the car more responsive at freeway speeds without a great RPM penalty. Let me know if you need a ride. I am sure we can figure out how to get together.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

The 1st-2nd gear steel syncro is a 3-piece affair that run about $1600. The entire set runs about $2200 so you can see that's the lion's share of the expense.

Porsche Motorsports part, only.

JMHO, but for an AutoX'er, these are well worth the money over the long term.

Bill Verburg

Rather than re-post the same charts here's another way of comparing some transmissions, both stock and regeared

I like the taller 1 & 2 and would like a tad taller 3 and maybe 4 too, mine is the /30 in red, but I don't do A/X


I agree steel syncros are the nuts for tracked cars, also get rid of the ceramic shelled bearings, for A/x the latter isn't important as the trans will never get that hot, but for big track use yes and/or a cooler for more than 20-30min runs

the 3-6 steel syncros are ~ $280 ea

The Motorsport shift 3-4 fork is a good if expensive upgrade too

other very desirable upgrades
replace the stock shift spindle w/ 950.303.134.05
Guard used to have a billet 1/2 fork but I don't know if that's still availabe

or just buy a /32, /30 or /34 and be done w/ it

os993

I re-geared approx 10yrs ago (and installed an RS LWF) and life has been good since.

Here's what I did (using Guard gears)

1st (stock, obviously)
2nd - 2.25
3rd - 1.65
4th - 1.286
5th - 1.040
6th - 0.821 (euro 6th). I actually like this gear a lot - ideal for cruising at 75mph+ with decent RPM range. I would strongly consider this, given the fact that you're already in there.

Steel synchros from 3rd to 6th!

77'3.6vram

When I had my factory remanufactured G50/32 installed there was no "increased effort" needed at all. On the contrary it shifts far more easily than the original G50/20,with 85K miles, I pulled out of the car. There is some additional effort needed to get the thing into reverse ,but,there are no syncros involved(steel or brass) with reverse.

jody stowitts

What is the "ungogly $$$" (ballpark) for a new steel 2nd gear synchro and labor for my 964 trans. in case it needs it in future. May behoove me to purchase now and save for later as prices don't get cheaper with time. Thanx!

Bill Verburg

Per Matt Monson , 964s come w/ steel syncros oe

jody stowitts

Got that Bill, but its a L.A. city bought and driver car with 98k, and figure its been shifted half a million times and maybe wear out in future. Am I "all wet"?

jody stowitts

Got that Bill, but its a L.A. city bought and driven '91 car with 98k, and figure its been shifted half a million times and maybe wear out in future. Am I "all wet"?

jody stowitts

Got that Bill, but its a L.A. city bought and driven '91 car with 98k, and figure its been shifted half a million times and maybe wear out in future. Am I "all wet"?

jody stowitts

Don't ask me how that happened!