140.6

As the title suggests I am beginning my search for a 993. I will create a separate post with what specifically I am looking for in terms of exterior color, interior color, options, modifications, service/maintenance history etc. a little later. For now my inquiry centers around how I will use the vehicle and where the sweet spot might be for me value wise.

I travel weekly for my job so this car, while a daily driver, will be used primarily for trips to and from the airport and then on the weekends. I imagine that it will see 5-8k miles per year, so not a garage queen and not the true definition of a daily driver.

First I'll say that maintenance history is going to trump mileage no matter how low or how high. Having said that from a value (I know that's personal) perspective would I be better off with mid-30k mileage car or a 60k+ car given the premium hit that 60k+ cars seem to take.

Thanks for the help.

richardew

I picked up mine with 42 miles on the odometer in 5/96.
It has been dealer maintained. Someday it may need engine work, but it hasen't had any yet. I don't drive it in the winter as much as I used to, but now that the nice weather is here it is my DD. This is what the car is capable of if maintained properly.

140.6

^^^Wow 280k! That inspires some serious confidence in the "bullet-proof" nature of these cars when properly maintained. So I am guessing that you are suggesting that I really should not care at all about mileage. Having said that I have been following the market for the last six months or so and it seems like there is a pretty substantial difference between a 60K+ car and a sub 40K car, and I am guessing you are saying go with the best example I can find in the 60K+ range, correct? Especially since this is not going to be a garage queen.

Falcondrivr

Richard and I probably represent a one sided argument. But I've got 162k on my car. Engine has never been apart. I'm doing a re-seal of gaskets and such right now with the engine out of the car, and my mechanic helping me said he was shocked at how tight the engine is.
My opinion is that maintenance is everything on these cars. I would buy a 60k+ car with complete maintenance history over a sub 30k car with no history, even at the same price. Not a typo, even at the same price.

richardew

I don't baby the car. Here is my last road trip to VA. Some of the driving was in the city @ <35 mph (~16 miles). I drove down Wednesday and back Saturday morning.

il pirata

I have a 23k car and agree with this. Knowing what you are getting is paramount. If you are doing over 5K a year and plan on keeping the car long term a low mileage car will start to pass up cars that are only weekenders or garage queens.

dcdude

To somewhat echo what you see above, in your case I would look for cars with 60K miles to 90K miles with excellent service records. Those usually appear here, Pelican and PCA, and you shouldn't need to spend more than $35k max.

Falcondrivr

Here's me babying mine:
http://youtube.com/watch?client=mv-g...&rdm=m2rht12bi

140.6

This is pretty much what I was assuming. However, I am assuming that your reference to "$35k max" is in a private sale. From what I have seen so far dealers like Holt have these cars in range of $38-41k. I would much prefer a private sale once I finally get all of my specs for a WTB post together.

Thanks again everyone I appreciate the help.

dcdude

I don't think that you'll get much arguement here about the benefits of a private sale. I expect that many people go to dealers due to convenience or "search fatigue." Many of these examples don't have records anymore, so you sorta pay more for less, although the nifty vacuum pattern in the carpet IS worth a few $K

richardew

You do have to be careful that a 60k car does not have SAI issues. The SAI ports clog up and the car will throw a SAI CEL. Search the forum and you'll find a lot about the SAI. It doesn't affect performance. I threw my first SAI CEL at 90k. I didn't need emissions inspection back then so I did a black tape repair (black tape over the CEL light). That worked until I moved back to Phila in 2004. I had the SAI flushed and it opened up 5/6 ports. I reset it and it's good for ~1000 miles then throws the CEL again. I make sure that I reset it a few days before I get it inspected and it gets through, at least it has since 2004.

140.6

Thanks. I actually have read just about every thread on the SAI issue in the forum, that part I am well acquainted with. The only thing that those threads don't seem to answer definitively is if you have top end rebuilt to address the valve guide wear and SAI issues does that fix it for good or will you need another rebuild after another X amount of miles.

Any way at this point, still putting together my wish list, I am leaning toward a '95 as my first preference simply to avoid OBDII and associated check engine light issues.

dcdude

That's where I netted out: it would be a '95 or a '96-'98 with a new top end. I wound up with the latter. Simple. Even with a new top end, it seems like you could need another in 60K to 90K or 120K to 180K total on the car. It's kind of a F-ed up "maintenance item," but at least we don't drive Ferraris!

stace

If you don't use OEM valve guides and instead use sintered bronze guides like the ones supplied by Steve Weiner - you should not have an issue for a very long long time....

Falcondrivr

Mine is a '95. I removed the entire SAI system. No codes.