e9stibi

If you really go the suspension route and cost is a lesser issue, go for the PSS10. The car will be easier to sell if you ever decide to let it go. You might change your mind and take it to the track (I do...) and will enjoy the PSS10. At the same time I would put in adjustable sway bars (TRG / RS). My C4S has RS sway bars and PSS9 which allowed me to dial-out the heavy understeer.

As mentioned before, settling the weight of the car properly is a key thing that really allowed me to pick up speed and drive smoother while I physicallly drive the same line.

flatsixforme

I think it's also important to remember to look at a car's handling as a whole system...we need to look at what touches the ground, the stiffness/compliance of each component and then the relative balance of it all. That said, a PSS10 spring rate may not be as well matched to a TRG ARB as an M030 ARB (this is my opinion).

For what it's worth, my setup on my C"2"S is below and offers a very well set up car that rotates beautifuly. It's also worth mentioning that when people say their car handles "great" it is subjective to what they want out of a car. My car is 80% track and I like a more oversteering car than most so keep that in mind when looking at my setup.

- PSS10 - I would get these hands down over the HDs if you have the extra coin
- M030 ARB - these are well matched to the PSS10 and pretty cheap compared to the RS adjustable bars. You can always drill an extra hole in each of the M030 bars to make them stiffer and offer some adjustability. Another option is to add a turbo rear bar which stiffens things by 1mm over the rear M030.
- Strut tower brace - I've driven my car with and without and I don't really tell a big difference in all honesty. I don't run one now because it puts me over on points in my TT/AX class. I would run it of course if I didn't need to fit in a class
- Walrod a-arm bushings - these make a noticeable difference
- Camber - -2.5 front and -2.7 rear. If I were doing it for a street car I'd probably go with -2 all around.
- Tires: 235/40/18 and 275/35/18 on 996tt hollow spokes which are 8 and 11 inches respectively. The 275 rear further helps my car rotate. If I were to set it up for a safer street car I'd probably run a 285.

Here is a video from last weekend, the car is very well balanced; however, if you put it in the hands of a man-handler you're gonna spin!!!

http://vimeo.com/search?q=4.7.12+ax

Good luck!

DJF1

The difference IS the adjustability. Because you seem to know and not afraid of trailbraking how you drive/want the car is probably quite different than a ot of 993 drivers. After racing my 993 and many track days, I eventually saw the light and mastered the courage to trust my limited skill and start trailbraking deeper and deeper. The fact that i was able to adjust my suspension rebound etc, made it possible for me to tune my car to my current liking. My current liking and "balanced feel" has not much to do with what I considered "balanced feel" a few years ago.

So there you have it. IMO changing the shocks, improving tires etc may not give you what you want. I think the adjustability options will.

If your wallet is fat enough I would go with Moton Clubsports and choose the springs of my liking. Changing the spring rates on a great base setup will likely keep you very happy for a long time without making expensive mistakes - read: do one thing only to realize later that you want more... Been there done that!

Michael S.

When I first purchased my C2S back in 2001, I was disappointed in the handling... Coming from a Mazda RX-7 Twin Turbo, I too was surprised at the amount of understeer in the car. PSS-9s and a set of euro turbo sways transformed my Porsche into what I thought was a great handling car! Of course, at that time, I had very little track time, none of which was in a 911. I have since learned to hustle my 993 around the track reasonably confidently, and I now wish for a bit less oversteer at times (coming some pretty sharp bends at my home track). So, if money is no object, I would spring for the adjustable RS Sways... For a dual purpose car (street and track) I don't think you can beat the Bilstien PSS-10 setup... Though I do lust after those Motons some days... Good luck, and watch out for the slope... it's slippery!

Martin S.

pro·sa·ic/prōˈzāik/
Adjective:
Having the style or diction of prose; lacking poetic beauty.
Commonplace; unromantic.

I must disagree, and feel the PSS9s are rather romantic!!!!.....and they are cheap too.

e9stibi

Running Nitto NT01? Would be interested in some close-up shots of your rubber installed. I have the same rims and currently running AD08 (225 / 295) but would not mind a better rotating car. I have already have PSS9 and RS sway bars.

Stealth 993

AD08's are a better tire, & really outside of a R compound you will be hard pressed to find something sticker.

race911

Than an NT01/RA1? I'd love to see data.

Speaking of which.......... Since this thread is kind of off the rails now re: tuning preferences, how about we all admit that really none of us have a clue about the subject? Absent data + pro level coaching/setup, and unless you're running on a lap record pace, it's all about what you feel comfortable with. Which is fine. But if I'm running 1 sec/min of lap time off what the car is capable of, I've got no business using anything but a good, safe baseline setup.

KaiB

Well said Ken. While I might debate the one second line, the above is good solid advice.

I've always thought that if a driver is not capable of "driving around" whatever shortcomings his car presents, then further setup and alterations will not bear fruit concomitant with the investment.

Track time and coaching are money well spent indeed.

Mark in Baltimore

Here is the connotation of prosaic that I had in mind: Lacking in imagination and spirit; dull.

Sorry, PSS-9'a are uninspired, at least in reference to the pricier, aforementioned dampers; there's just no comparison. Yes, the Bilsteins are less expensive, but cost constraints have not been mandated by the OP, right? I had PSS-9's and, at least for the bumpy tracks here on the east coast, they simply cannot do what remote reservoir shocks can do. I had some pretty bad porpoising coming out of T1 and T5 at Summit. If spring rates and valving are not well-matched, I call that effort lacking in imagination and prosaic.

Stealth 993

Your right, I had it my head the Star Spec. Yea, a R tire will always be better then a street tire....

race911

One second per minute of lap time, so say two full seconds at Thunderhill or Sears. That's nearly pole to DFL in Spec Miata.

And here's the ugly truth about me--I've probably got a sum total of two hours consulting with anyone more experienced than me about driving and setup specific to my cars over the past 30 years. A LOT of brain picking in the general sense, however.

So we've both taken one big swing and miss on tire comments now!

Stealth 993

Yea, I should not be on Rennlist when my 15month old is playing on my laptop with me.

flatsixforme

Here are the only pictures I have...nothing of them off the car mounted. cgfen has one of exactly what you are looking for, I sent him an email to see if he still has it.






Ha...I'll admit it, I don't have much of a clue! I have little data and what improvements I have shown are probably as much me learning to drive my car better. What I do know is how I want the car to feel for me to drive "fast", or how I perceive what fast is around a track. That is what I let guide me in setting up my car. Is it the fastest or best setup for my car...I'm sure it's not! Does it produce fast times relative to my competitors and other cars in faster classes with experienced drivers...yes.