HerrDoktor

So I found the right guy to do my paint job. And after walking around the car and IDing every spot that I wanted to get fixed, I realized that I am essentially asking for a complete respray. I don't have a problem with this and I won't have to worry so much about matching (black -->black)...

BUT I am a bit nervous about the whole deal as this is my first respray. So what am I looking for to make sure this guy does it right the first time?

All body panels off?
All exterior seals off?
How much stripping/grinding? (Assuming I don't want him to go down to bare metal)
Number of coats?
Type of paint?
Other things I should make sure he does?

IXLR8

What is the condition of the windshield? Pits, scratches? What does the body cavity look like at the lower edges of the windscreen? Now may be the time to take care of any rust...same for the back window.

Remove anything not part of a body panel.

Remove:

• bumpers
• all lights front and rear
• trim around all glass
• rocker panel trim

And above all, have everything you don't want painted, very well masked.

A solid black? I would clear coat it.

timothymoffat

Couldn't agree more. Rust around the front and rear glass is quite common. Absolute perfect time to have a look and fix any issues.

HerrDoktor

Thanks, guys. You are right on. I have some rust bubbles at the base of rear windshield, that I am going to have repaired (pop out the glass, cut out rust area and metal weld).

I figure I should plan on spending the day with the guy to help take everything apart and make sure that everything comes off and is well masked. (I know him pretty well, so I don't think he'll have any problem with this.) Or I can at least tell him I want to photograph the process for my own interest...

So you would not remove the hood, front quarter panels, light housing? I don't see how he is going to paint in the cracks between the panels...

And the front windshield stays in?

Should I think about spraying some anti-rust protectent to the inside of the quarter panels (wheel wells)? I live in rust country...


Oh and should I be showing up with replacement window seals once he is down painting?

IXLR8

Joe, make sure the welds are cleaned up and that he uses a zinc-rich primer...on both sides (sometimes difficult or at least time intensive). This is where doing it yourself comes in handy, because time is money and the shop may want to rush things.


For example, the rubber trim around the hood opening would be removed and then the edge masked to the inside of the vertical edge. This way, no matt/rough overspray in that channel. As for the hood, mask the underside to the folded over edge.

You know the old saying, prep work is 99% of the job and no where does it apply more than in paint jobs. Take your time masking. You might wet sand the harder to get to areas before taking it to the shop. Ask them.

I'd remove the front and back windows. Its work, but I believe in doing it right. Check the PET, you'll need a few pieces that go around the window (plastic frame and trim, I think). Now is the time to replace the windshield if it is pitted. Take note of the antenna wiring...if memory serves me.

NC TRACKRAT

Unless you don't care about it, be sure he papers and tapes off underneath so as to not shoot the suspension and underbody panels with primer or basecoat

HerrDoktor

Thanks, all. Keep it coming. I will be away for a couple days. But will check back with updates. All very helpful points.

Neil Perry

I would remove the front guards, door rubbers, bonnet, boot, replace all seals and rubber trim bits between panels on the front.
Plus get all the apertures painted, hence the car will not look like it has been painted.
Replace the door handle seals.
Check that the back window is put in properly, all windows I have seen replaced sit out slightly.

If there are any damaged panels, get the dints repaired, pulled out and not filled with putty, as they would probably show up later with sinkage.

Good luck

HerrDoktor

So I dropped off the car...

And everything is coming off (windshield, doors, hood, quarter panels, plastic bits and lights...). He even showed me a spot where the paint had been touched up in the past, which I never would have noticed... I relayed all the concerns you guys brought up with regard to new welds. He mentioned that depending on the size of the cut outs, he may go with a type of adhesive/glue which he said has been shown to be as strong if not stronger than welds and there is no heat damage. But he would need to see how extensive the rust was before making a decision. I wish I had time to set up a webcam to watch him at work... Can't wait to see the end results!!

techman1

New windshield washers. Gaskets not avail. separatly and probably shot.

Cemoto

techman, I'm glad you brought this up.

How does one remove/replace the heated windshield washers? The hose clamps do not look re-useable, and do you need a certain tool to replace the OEM clamps?

Thank you.

Regards,

techman1

Al,
Looking at that myself, gaskets are gooey. There are 2 things stopping me. Washers work great, can't see buying new just for the gasket, and the removal may break the clamps!!

IXLR8

Those are Oetiker Stepless Ear Clamps and you use pincers to set them.

HerrDoktor

So just spoke to my body guy. The rear windshield appears to be GLUED in there, he is worried about breaking the windshield to get it out. That said he doesn't feel it is necessary to pull. The guy teaches body work to shops around the country so I tend to trust him. I have heard of guys sealing the bejeezus out of their rear windshields to prevent rust/leakage/water trapping. But I guess this is the downside of such a fix... I may just have him cut the seal out to be sure he can really get in there although he is telling me that he has clamps that will give him good access and will prevent any paint lines at the seal, if I don't want to replace the seal. He doesn't mind doing whatever I ask him...

He is also suggesting I replace the sunroof seals, the door handle seals... I emailed sunset for a quote and VertexAuto wants $70 for this. You guys have a source you like and trust? I couldn't find wiper gaskets as suggested...

CorrdoBrit

Aren't all windshields 'glued' with silicon based adhesive. Or is he saying its a non-silicon based material. That can't be good since there would be no flex.