Distributor rebuild questions
#1
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While I'm doing an overhaul of my brakes and other stuff, my friend is reassembling my 993 distributor after replacing the belt and cleaning and he has two questions.
His words:
In the first picture below, the red arrow area of the dished “spring washer” rides on the distributor bearing inner race (second picture).
I realize that when compressed, the function of the spring washer is to hold the bearing inner race to the distributer shaft so that the shaft and bearing inner race turn together.
My two questions:
1) Should the flat washer and the spring washer be greased?
When the distributor was disassembled there was what appeared to be grease caked on both washers and it was almost like putty on the face of the toothed cog wheel and both sides of the flat washer between the spring washer and the toothed cog wheel (third picture).
I worry that if the washers are greased, the spring washer will spin and not be able to hold the shaft to the bearing inner race.
2) If not greased, what should be used?
Distributor Shaft-Bearing Spring Washers
![Name: dist1.jpg
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Distributor Bearing Inner Races
![Name: dist3.jpg
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Not sure what it is between flat washer and belt drive cog wheel – doesn’t appear to be grease same grease that is everywhere else.
![Name: dist2.jpg
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Size: 39.9 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/993-forum/618829d1332561164-distributor-rebuild-questions-dist2.jpg)
Thanks,
His words:
In the first picture below, the red arrow area of the dished “spring washer” rides on the distributor bearing inner race (second picture).
I realize that when compressed, the function of the spring washer is to hold the bearing inner race to the distributer shaft so that the shaft and bearing inner race turn together.
My two questions:
1) Should the flat washer and the spring washer be greased?
When the distributor was disassembled there was what appeared to be grease caked on both washers and it was almost like putty on the face of the toothed cog wheel and both sides of the flat washer between the spring washer and the toothed cog wheel (third picture).
I worry that if the washers are greased, the spring washer will spin and not be able to hold the shaft to the bearing inner race.
2) If not greased, what should be used?
Distributor Shaft-Bearing Spring Washers
![Name: dist1.jpg
Views: 2573
Size: 53.5 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/993-forum/618828d1332561164-distributor-rebuild-questions-dist1.jpg)
Distributor Bearing Inner Races
![Name: dist3.jpg
Views: 2477
Size: 55.9 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/993-forum/618830d1332561164-distributor-rebuild-questions-dist3.jpg)
Not sure what it is between flat washer and belt drive cog wheel – doesn’t appear to be grease same grease that is everywhere else.
![Name: dist2.jpg
Views: 1964
Size: 39.9 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/993-forum/618829d1332561164-distributor-rebuild-questions-dist2.jpg)
Thanks,
#2
Rennlist Member
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The Belleville washer just pre-loads the bearings as required. The inner surface of the Belleville washer makes contact with the inner race of the bearing.
BTW, to overcome the spring tension of the Bellville washer as you are trying to press the gear in position to install the pin, use a drill press as an arbor press if you don't have the latter. Place a piece of plywood on the table of the drill press, rotate the jaws of the chuck till they are flush with the chuck body. Place the distributor upside down so that the top of the shaft is up against the plywood and the chuck of the drill press is up against the distributor drive gear. Apply slight pressure to the drill press crank handles till the holes line up to insert the drive gear pin.
A similar set-up can be used to overcome the spring tension of the Belleville washer when trying to install the cir-clip in the secondary distributor.
#3
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If you need a new cap to seal off the secondary distributor, just use a 1 1/4" x 1/4" frost plug. A great fix for about $2.
![](http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/Cars/Porsche-Technical-Stuff/Distributor/i-ZRhjLzG/0/M/Secondary-Distributor-End-Cap-M.jpg)
Prior to installation, you need to file smooth the stake marks so that they are flush with the machined surface of the distributor body. I used jeweler's files.
![](http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/Cars/Porsche-Technical-Stuff/Distributor/i-ZRhjLzG/0/M/Secondary-Distributor-End-Cap-M.jpg)
Prior to installation, you need to file smooth the stake marks so that they are flush with the machined surface of the distributor body. I used jeweler's files.
#4
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Alex,
Thanks for the information and quick response. I will share this with Keith so we can get my car back together (I'm missing driving it, although the weather hasn't been all that great so I did pick a pretty good time to take it off the road). He also is using a frost plug for the cap.
Now I just need my brakes back from the powder coater!
Thanks again, what a great forum this is!
Rob
Thanks for the information and quick response. I will share this with Keith so we can get my car back together (I'm missing driving it, although the weather hasn't been all that great so I did pick a pretty good time to take it off the road). He also is using a frost plug for the cap.
Now I just need my brakes back from the powder coater!
Thanks again, what a great forum this is!
Rob
#6
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NC,
I have 157K on the car and records from 70K. I could not find any maintenance work to replace the distributor belt, so I assumed it had never been replaced.
When we got the distributor out and apart enough to get to the belt, I broke it under gentle finger pressure. This baby was due and our timing in rebuilding the distributor could not have been better.
As I recall from Keith, my friend who is rebuilding the distributor (I would have sent this off to get rebuilt, but he is EXTREMELY meticulous and has rebuilt his own prior to this) the bearings were in good shape with primary bearing still had plenty of grease but the secondary was less so.
Keith has documented this rebuild very well and I may have more tidbits (or he may post a diy himself).
Thanks,
I have 157K on the car and records from 70K. I could not find any maintenance work to replace the distributor belt, so I assumed it had never been replaced.
When we got the distributor out and apart enough to get to the belt, I broke it under gentle finger pressure. This baby was due and our timing in rebuilding the distributor could not have been better.
As I recall from Keith, my friend who is rebuilding the distributor (I would have sent this off to get rebuilt, but he is EXTREMELY meticulous and has rebuilt his own prior to this) the bearings were in good shape with primary bearing still had plenty of grease but the secondary was less so.
Keith has documented this rebuild very well and I may have more tidbits (or he may post a diy himself).
Thanks,
#7
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If the secondary shaft is spinning well, I usually will not remove the plug and shaft - its possible to replace the belt without removing the secondary shaft - its a bit of a 3D puzzle though.
I have never found a belt that looked to be in "bad" shape, and I have rebuilt at least 8 now, with mileage up to 130,000 miles. Funny that your belt was falling apart.
cheers
Mike
I have never found a belt that looked to be in "bad" shape, and I have rebuilt at least 8 now, with mileage up to 130,000 miles. Funny that your belt was falling apart.
cheers
Mike
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#8
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If the secondary shaft is spinning well, I usually will not remove the plug and shaft - its possible to replace the belt without removing the secondary shaft - its a bit of a 3D puzzle though.
I have never found a belt that looked to be in "bad" shape, and I have rebuilt at least 8 now, with mileage up to 130,000 miles. Funny that your belt was falling apart.
cheers
Mike
I have never found a belt that looked to be in "bad" shape, and I have rebuilt at least 8 now, with mileage up to 130,000 miles. Funny that your belt was falling apart.
cheers
Mike
I don't have the belt with me since Keith took it for show and tell with some of our local Porsche community. I'll take a picture of it or post one of his when I get it.
Rob
#11
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#12
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