Clutch & Flywheel
#1
Clutch & Flywheel
Gents,
A few questions. I have noticed some "slip" in the RPMs on my 42000 mile C4S on the really hard/fast 1-2 shift. The tran. just doesn't seem to grab like it should. I have discussed this with some respected Porsche people who seem to think this may be an ominous sign for my dual mass flywheel. Have noticed no other issues. Clutch pedal itself feels firm but ok.
Next question would be with regards to the possible upgrade to a LWF and RS clutch. I have read lots on this topic in the forum but need to get a better handle on the idle and downshift noise. I have read everything to "hardly noticeable" to "sounds like the engine is about to explode." So what gives?
My car is primarily weekend backroad street use. Doubt more then 1 track day per year. Live in a hilly hood.
Current labor cost for this job from my indie is $1620 (with engine drop). Thoughts on this estimate?
Thanks!
A few questions. I have noticed some "slip" in the RPMs on my 42000 mile C4S on the really hard/fast 1-2 shift. The tran. just doesn't seem to grab like it should. I have discussed this with some respected Porsche people who seem to think this may be an ominous sign for my dual mass flywheel. Have noticed no other issues. Clutch pedal itself feels firm but ok.
Next question would be with regards to the possible upgrade to a LWF and RS clutch. I have read lots on this topic in the forum but need to get a better handle on the idle and downshift noise. I have read everything to "hardly noticeable" to "sounds like the engine is about to explode." So what gives?
My car is primarily weekend backroad street use. Doubt more then 1 track day per year. Live in a hilly hood.
Current labor cost for this job from my indie is $1620 (with engine drop). Thoughts on this estimate?
Thanks!
#2
Nordschleife Master
I'm not so sure i'd blame the dual mass flywheel... a slipping clutch sounds like a worn or greasy clutch disk. If you should CHOOSE to go to a LWF that would be a nice upgrade (with some possible issues) but probably not required at this time. I still have my dual mass flywheel, so I can't speak to the issues with the LWF. I happen to have a LWF and a complete clutch kit in a box, and may get around to installing it if the engine ever has to come out. I seriously doubt I'll ever need to replace my clutch due to wear.
#3
Rennlist Member
One of the nice things about living in Portland is Steve Warner's shop is in Portland.
Here is his website. http://rennsportsystems.com/
When it comes time for serious engine work, I think I will try my best to get the car to Steve.
--Joe
Here is his website. http://rennsportsystems.com/
When it comes time for serious engine work, I think I will try my best to get the car to Steve.
--Joe
#4
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One of the nice things about living in Portland is Steve Weiner's shop is in Portland.
Here is his website. http://rennsportsystems.com/
When it comes time for serious engine work, I think I will try my best to get the car to Steve.
--Joe
Here is his website. http://rennsportsystems.com/
When it comes time for serious engine work, I think I will try my best to get the car to Steve.
--Joe
#5
Thanks guys. I have consulted with Steve on several occasions and received excellent advice. Still felt like asking the forum on opinions as this is an expensive decision. Thanks!
#6
Burning Brakes
I believe the general consensus on the flywheel's lifetime is approximately 100K miles but they can certainly go before that. From your symptoms it sounds more like the clutch disc is going.
If the engine is being dropped your price is in the reasonable range. If they do it without dropping (but that is a real PITA) it should be less.
If the engine is being dropped your price is in the reasonable range. If they do it without dropping (but that is a real PITA) it should be less.
#7
Buy the Andial Mid weight FW and you will have no issues with stalling. Book time on a four wheel drive 993 clutch job is 16 hours. It should be able to be done in half that time by a capable Porsche mechanic. The noise is increased by the installation of solid/RS engine and tranny mounts. I have stock engine mounts and RS transmission mount with the MWF. The chatter is not intrusive and I use the car as a daily driver.
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#8
I have the LWF and RS clutch in my '97 C2. I happen to like it the way it drives, and have gotten used to the noise.
I'm not sure how 'hilly your hood" is, but be aware that the LWF/RS combo is like an on-off switch. It is not very forgiving, and getting started uphill from a dead stop can be quite a tap-dancing act. I even use my handbrake sometimes.
but, if I ever do have to replace my clutch, I'll stay with the LWF/RS setup.
I'm not sure how 'hilly your hood" is, but be aware that the LWF/RS combo is like an on-off switch. It is not very forgiving, and getting started uphill from a dead stop can be quite a tap-dancing act. I even use my handbrake sometimes.
but, if I ever do have to replace my clutch, I'll stay with the LWF/RS setup.
#10
Hmm, I don't know if I agree with this. I had read it to be the case and was totally surprised when it turned out to not be the case at all. I even managed to install it while we had snow on the ground, no issues spinning the tires or anything. Also driving in Seattle isn't a problem either, and it gets pretty steep here...
Have you gone through your pedal cluster? Changed the hydraulics out? I replaced everything while I was in there, and it made a huge improvement in pedal feel and overall smoothness.
#11
I have the MWF, and I still find it challenging to work sometimes. Full rebuild of the pedal cluster, hydraulics, kinematic lever and all the while-you're-in-there's that I could come up with. I just switched back to a stock chip and it actually seems more consistent, and as a result, easier.
As for hilly hoods I generally don't have any trouble, maybe it's the extra dose of concentration... but I can cover both the throttle and brake pedals concurrently easily enough with my right shoe that I don't need to slip it, roll back or use the handbrake.
#12
Interesting; what brake fluid do you run? I wonder if that has something to do with it. Your clutch doesn't feel as smooth as mine, but I didn't know you had replaced everything! I use ATE TYP200 (amber Super Blue)..
#13
#15
Some nice reassuring posts. Seems to be some inconsistency in the drivability results with this set up. I live in a steep hillside hood with angles of accent similar to what TravisB has posted above. Nice pic by the way. I know that street.
Feel like perhaps I'm over thinking this.
Feel like perhaps I'm over thinking this.