pp000830

Dear Rennlisters,
Below is an easy to follow step by step chart to deactivate the ignition
immobilizer and add remote key fobs to your 1995 on 993.(up to 4 fobs total)
It makes the process easier to follow when you are in the car actually going through the process.

https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...ming-made.html

As always use my posting information at your own risk!
Andy

cmat

Thanks much Andy. I will be going thru this soon to add an extra remote.

Rinty

Thanks!

Jack of Hearts

Where do I find the immobilizer code? Is it the same as the radio code?

Knight

Mine was on business size card (contained with my owner's manual stuff etc), it had both a radio + immobilizer code.

Mike J

Nice work, this is close to the factory wording, and since I found the manual a bit vague in places, especially for someone doing this for the first time ... maybe we can enhance descriptions a bit?

Step # 1 - What exactly is the "warning light in the clock" - is it the picture of a remote control? (a newbie would not know)

Step # 2- What does "flash" mean - is it "off", "on", and then "off", or is it repeatedly being turned on and off at some frequency, like every second?

Step #3-5 - "wait for warning light" - maybe we can say for the warning light to stay solidly on?

Step #6 - What does "flash" mean? Blink? Stay on?

Step #7-9 - does the door LED blink repeatedly, or just on and off?

PS - I do know how to do this, but thought I would ask questions that i have seen others ask, and I asked the first time through....

Cheers,

Mike

Rinty

What I like about Andy's graph is that it clarifies what you do before beginning the coding, and which detents to go to.

I was unsuccessful in programming a new fob a few years ago, and I think it was because I didn't do the correct pre start, and I may have been switching to the wrong detents.

My indie wouldn't touch the programming, and it took the dealer 4 hours to do it (they didn't charge me for most of the time).

A related concern I have about the procedure is the extra wear on the ignition switch. But I haven't read about any problems.

911Dave

The procedure in the owner's manual says the first step is to unlock the door, and within 10 seconds open the door and turn the key on. That's different than what's stated in this pdf, which is to get in, close the door and wait 3 minutes. They can't both be right and I don't understand how the owner's manual can be wrong. Has anyone else verified this procedure?

Mike J

It works as long as you interpret the lights correctly, i.e. what does "flash" mean, on-off, or on?

From the shop manual:

"Before the code number is entered, the immobilizer must be primed but the alarm and central locking system must not be activated. This status is reached 90 seconds after the ignition key is removed, or 3 minutes after the vehicle has been unlocked using the remote control unit if the ignition key is not turned in the lock"

When I program these cars, I unlock the car, sit in the car, close the door, put the key in the ignition, turn on the car but not start it, shut the car off, and remove the key. I then sit in the car for 90 seconds, put the key back in and power the car up again. That is the start of the first step.

I do not do the 3 minute cycle because, well, I am too impatient.

Cheers,

Mike

H.H.Chinn

I took mine to the dealer a few years ago where there were only a couple of the techs left that knew how to program/reprogram key fobs on the 993. It took the guy about 30 minutes to complete the process programming two new fobs along with two that came with the car. At the time money well spent forme for fear of screwing up the sequence and disabling the car.

911Dave

I'm confused by this statement at the bottom: "The key stops in the off position just before the position where the steering column lock is triggered."

What is meant by "triggered"? The steering column lock works in the off position so I don't quite get what this means.

Knight

Well I just went thru this procedure with Mike J about a month ago, thankfully it took me one shot to re-program both fobs, literally done in minutes.

Hearing above about 4 hours to do this is programming is crazy, especially for trained p-car techs.

"The key stops in the off position just before the position where the steering column lock is triggered." When I did this, it's basically at the point where all the dashboard lights will turn off.

stairmasterman911

hate to sound goofy, but what is the purpose of doing this?

davesnothere

@stairmasterman, you do this whenever you need to add or replace key fobs and have them be recognized by the immobilizer.

I like all of Mike J's suggestions. While seemingly complex, this is a relatively straightforward procedure, and the clearer and more specific the language, the greater the chance of people having success with this as a DIY.

Don't be afraid to try this yourselves. The procedure basically consists of three parts:

1) preparing the system for programming
2) putting the immobilizer in "learn" mode
3) learning fobs

Step #1 is basically all the self-test stuff, making sure you have the single blink on the door LEDs with the alarm activated, etc.
Step #2 is where everybody seems to get hung up, trying to get the sequence of waiting, flashing and flicking the key right to get into the mode where the immobilizer is ready to discover ("learn") all your remote fobs.
Step #3 is pressing the button on each fob so that immobilizer learns its code.

I maintain that if you are having trouble, you'll most likely never finish step #2, which means your immobilizer will never be put into "learn" mode, and thus it will just continue to remember your current set of fobs. No harm, no foul.

I'm not saying it's impossible to mess this up, but it seems like you'd really have to try at it.

- Dave

Mike J

No, I usually f**k up (2), but once in a while I get it first try... :-)