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brake and clutch bleeding

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Old 02-20-2012 | 06:58 PM
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Default brake and clutch bleeding

Planning to bleed the clutch slave to see if it will resolve my clutch pedal clicking, decided to bleed the brake as well while I'm under there.
Should I bleed the slave first then the calipers or vice versa or it doesn't matter? Thanks!
Old 02-20-2012 | 07:28 PM
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I always do my brakes first, so I know I have new fluid in thru the whole system...then do the clutch, but Im not sure it matters!
Old 02-20-2012 | 10:52 PM
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The clutch is sourced from the higher part of the reservoir, while the brakes are from lower. That way if you had a problem with leaking fluid you'd get an indication with the clutch first, instead of the brakes.

As far as bleeding, that difference shouldn't matter. Bleed in any order you want. I usually do the brakes first... getting to that slave cylinder is tough until you learn the tricks. Once you learn them, not too bad.
Old 02-21-2012 | 12:03 AM
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I usually do the brakes first, but I do not think it matters. Except, by doing the slave last I can go in and change my shirt that I just poured brake fluid all over from the slave versus still having to do the brakes...
Old 02-21-2012 | 02:49 AM
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You should not get too wet during the slave flush. Hang a large plastic bottle (like a pop bottle) off the main cross member and use a clear tube to run the fluid from the slave bleed nipple. I usually slide a small 7mm box-end wrench onto the nipple before putting the drain tube on, and then bleed away using pressure. It should be all fluid-tight. Frequent fill ups as you bleed, it does not take much draining to push air into the clutch circuit. When pulling the bleeding tube off, use a rag so it captures all the leaks - and most of it will drain into the bottle.

Order does not matter, although I usually do the brakes first - for no real reason.

Of course, its easier with my lift, but I did it for years off the ground on jack stands. LOL!
Old 02-21-2012 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike J
You should not get too wet during the slave flush. Hang a large plastic bottle (like a pop bottle) off the main cross member and use a clear tube to run the fluid from the slave bleed nipple. I usually slide a small 7mm box-end wrench onto the nipple before putting the drain tube on, and then bleed away using pressure. It should be all fluid-tight. Frequent fill ups as you bleed, it does not take much draining to push air into the clutch circuit. When pulling the bleeding tube off, use a rag so it captures all the leaks - and most of it will drain into the bottle.

Order does not matter, although I usually do the brakes first - for no real reason.

Of course, its easier with my lift, but I did it for years off the ground on jack stands. LOL!
Exactly my method...makes it just as easy as doing a 5th brake!
Old 02-21-2012 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff96-993
The clutch is sourced from the higher part of the reservoir, while the brakes are from lower. That way if you had a problem with leaking fluid you'd get an indication with the clutch first, instead of the brakes.

As far as bleeding, that difference shouldn't matter. Bleed in any order you want. I usually do the brakes first... getting to that slave cylinder is tough until you learn the tricks. Once you learn them, not too bad.
Why I do the clutch first if I'm doing it with the Motive (dry) method. If doing the Motive (wet) method it does not matter. Of course if you make sure the reservoir is filled again before doing the clutch the order wouldn't matter.

A few years ago after replacing the clutch on my 968 had a heck of a time getting the clutch bled. I had the front higher than the rear and due to where the clutch area of the reservoir was it would suck air in very early. had to jack up the RR of the car to bleed the clutch w/out sucking more air.
Old 02-21-2012 | 03:16 PM
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Thanks for all the feedback! Looks like brake then clutch is the way to go. My reason is that in case I fail to keep the reservoir full while bleeding the brakes and air went first into the clutch line I would have to re-bleed the clutch anyway
Old 02-22-2012 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike J
Of course, its easier with my lift, but I did it for years off the ground on jack stands. LOL!
Did mine two years ago on my back on jack stands and there wasn't a lot of "LOL-ing" going on. First time out is a real braile lesson--plus I need hands that are a size or two smaller!! I did the slave cylindar last for no good reason than I knew it would be the most difficult. Got some nasty colored fluid out and checked the maintenance records. Apparently hadn't been done in a long time.

I think I'm going to do it all again this year and rent a lift the next time.
Old 02-22-2012 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by hchc
Thanks for all the feedback! Looks like brake then clutch is the way to go. My reason is that in case I fail to keep the reservoir full while bleeding the brakes and air went first into the clutch line I would have to re-bleed the clutch anyway
Doesn't quite work that way. If the fluid in the res falls below the clutch intake area as long as you're not actuating the clutch it's not going to suck air into the clutch system. Fluid is heavier than air and will stay at the bottom, when you refill the res the air will go to the top. (as long as you haven't sucked air down by actuating the clutch)
Old 02-22-2012 | 11:24 AM
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I flush the brake & clutch circuits every season and do the clutch first. Just because.

I do the dry method, and modified my Motive hose with dry breaks.


Andreas
Old 02-22-2012 | 12:24 PM
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Just to keep the thread going...

I also suck all the old fluid I can out of the res. with turkey baster before refilling with fresh fluid, then proceed with bleeding the system. this way you're not mixing old fluid with the new any more than you have too.
Old 02-22-2012 | 12:40 PM
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I do clutch first, then brakes. I do the brakes every spring but do the clutch every other year.
Old 02-22-2012 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 993BillW
Doesn't quite work that way. If the fluid in the res falls below the clutch intake area as long as you're not actuating the clutch it's not going to suck air into the clutch system. Fluid is heavier than air and will stay at the bottom, when you refill the res the air will go to the top. (as long as you haven't sucked air down by actuating the clutch)
Originally Posted by 993BillW
Just to keep the thread going...

I also suck all the old fluid I can out of the res. with turkey baster before refilling with fresh fluid, then proceed with bleeding the system. this way you're not mixing old fluid with the new any more than you have too.
Thanks for the great tip! By the same reasoning, I should not need to worry about air getting into the system while the reservoir is empty as long as I don't touch the brake or clutch before filling the reservior with new fluid right?
Old 02-22-2012 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by hchc
Thanks for the great tip! By the same reasoning, I should not need to worry about air getting into the system while the reservoir is empty as long as I don't touch the brake or clutch before filling the reservior with new fluid right?
Exactly. I take as much as I can out and fill all the way to the brim with new and then start bleeding it out. I do two wheels first, refill, then two more, refill, then clutch. Lastly, I check the level and add or take out to the line. Only caution is to have it very full before touching the clutch. Its very easy to suck air into the clutch "inlet" because it is higher up in the resevoir than than the brake one. Make sense?



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