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Last efforts before calling the hook...'95 C2, won't start after engine R&R.

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Last efforts before calling the hook...'95 C2, won't start after engine R&R.

 
Old 01-12-2012, 01:02 AM
  #31  
Stealth 993
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WOW, sounds like a nightmare.

I would go over most connections, unplug, replug, & make sure they are not bent up or pinched.
I know it sounds obvious, but is the MAF plugged in? Is the TPS set?
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Old 01-12-2012, 02:25 AM
  #32  
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Travis, I feel for you on this issue. I was thinking could it be that the DME relay may have gone bad during the process. I know it sounds to simple.. But if everything is checking out to spec maybe it is sometime simple.....
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Old 01-12-2012, 02:44 AM
  #33  
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I thought he replaced the DME?

If you can get hold of a compression gauge and run a quick check on a piston, that might hint at something

Following two threads is hard, but I understand why you are doing this.

If we have spark and fuel, then why would it not fire?

1 - No compression for some reason - easy check
2 - Wrong timing - easy check with timing light on all cylinders, that woudl check the entire circuit
3 - Bad fuel - not sure how to check this but you said it does not fire with starting fluid which should work
4 - Open intake (ie. no vacuum) - sounds like its OK
5 - fouled plugs (unlikely all 12)

When you had the timing light, did you get a chance to check all pistons like I suggested?

This problem is certainly not obvious what is wrong... or is that too obvious? :-)

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 01-12-2012, 02:52 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by C4SJOHN View Post
Travis, I feel for you on this issue. I was thinking could it be that the DME relay may have gone bad during the process. I know it sounds to simple.. But if everything is checking out to spec maybe it is sometime simple.....
He gets fuel and spark - not the DME. :-)
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Old 01-12-2012, 02:59 AM
  #35  
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Couild it be the engine is simply flooded?

I also noticed toward the end of the video, there were some smoke or something coming out of the cat when the engine was cranking.
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Old 01-12-2012, 03:01 AM
  #36  
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Possible for sure. Solution would be to pull all the easy lower plugs and crank the heck out of it, or blow compressed air into the open plug holes...... :-)
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Old 01-12-2012, 03:16 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by C4SJOHN View Post
Travis, I feel for you on this issue. I was thinking could it be that the DME relay may have gone bad during the process. I know it sounds to simple.. But if everything is checking out to spec maybe it is sometime simple.....
Originally Posted by Mike J View Post
I thought he replaced the DME?

Yep, I tried replacing the relay and I've tried a jumper as well. Definitely not the DME relay!


If you can get hold of a compression gauge and run a quick check on a piston, that might hint at something

Following two threads is hard, but I understand why you are doing this.

If we have spark and fuel, then why would it not fire?

1 - No compression for some reason - easy check
2 - Wrong timing - easy check with timing light on all cylinders, that woudl check the entire circuit
3 - Bad fuel - not sure how to check this but you said it does not fire with starting fluid which should work
4 - Open intake (ie. no vacuum) - sounds like its OK
5 - fouled plugs (unlikely all 12)

When you had the timing light, did you get a chance to check all pistons like I suggested?

This problem is certainly not obvious what is wrong... or is that too obvious? :-)

Cheers,

Mike

Yeah, I wasn't sure about posting the second thread but..I'm getting desperate, lol!

Compression..well, like you said, easy check I guess. No reason for there not to be though!

Timing - well, we only tested the #1 cylinders. Oops..

Fuel - it's less than a month old, and also the point about the starter fluid.

Vacuum leak - pretty much ruled this one out. Something big enough to keep it from catching at all would be painfully obvious, something small wouldn't keep it from starting.


Originally Posted by axl911 View Post
Couild it be the engine is simply flooded?

I also noticed toward the end of the video, there were some smoke or something coming out of the cat when the engine was cranking.

Plugs - well, I've removed the lower 6 several times, blowing them off every time they go back in. Once I left them out for several hours, turning the engine over occasionally to air it out, and I hit the bottoms of the cylinders with a heat gun. No change. They do come out with a black coating on them every time, they're trying to do something..

Yes, I think that might have been fuel you saw at the end of the video. The garage reeked of gas after that..
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Old 01-12-2012, 03:36 AM
  #38  
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Not an issue - the car does not even burp. Plugging that line is correct since he removed the ventilation fan mounted beside the engine.
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Old 01-12-2012, 04:10 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by TravisB View Post


Plugs - well, I've removed the lower 6 several times, blowing them off every time they go back in. Once I left them out for several hours, turning the engine over occasionally to air it out, and I hit the bottoms of the cylinders with a heat gun. No change. They do come out with a black coating on them every time, they're trying to do something...
But are you 100% sure you have the correct plugs?
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Old 01-12-2012, 08:42 AM
  #40  
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IIRC there is a dowel pin arrangement on the flywheel to ensure proper alignment, do you remember having to line that up when you put the new flywheel in?
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:06 AM
  #41  
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What does the rev counter do when you are cranking it?
I had a similar problem on an Audi 5V. Good spark and fuel galore. The rev counter stopped working a couple of weeks earlier but the car ran fine. One morning it would not start and I wasted 2 days trying to sort it. No fault codes displayed on vag com. The rev counter needle would bounce up occasionally when cranking. I gave up on the POS and a mobile mechanic thought he would try a new crank sensor as I had checked everything else. Sorted.

Good luck.
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:55 AM
  #42  
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When you checked spark at the plugs did you use old spark plugs or new? Maybe try putting some of the old plugs back in and see what happens.
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:43 AM
  #43  
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Although not impossible, I find it highly unlikely that a component failed unless a wire was cut during installation of the engine/transmission.

Do you have a ground wire between the engine/transmission and the frame of the vehicle?
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:17 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Juha G View Post
But are you 100% sure you have the correct plugs?

Yes, the Bosch part numbers are the same as the old plugs, which I believe is the recommended plug. FR5DTC I believe.


Originally Posted by techman1 View Post
IIRC there is a dowel pin arrangement on the flywheel to ensure proper alignment, do you remember having to line that up when you put the new flywheel in?

Yes, it was a snug fit, I had to tap the flywheel with a rubber mallet to get it seated.


Originally Posted by Luftd993 View Post
What does the rev counter do when you are cranking it?
I had a similar problem on an Audi 5V. Good spark and fuel galore. The rev counter stopped working a couple of weeks earlier but the car ran fine. One morning it would not start and I wasted 2 days trying to sort it. No fault codes displayed on vag com. The rev counter needle would bounce up occasionally when cranking. I gave up on the POS and a mobile mechanic thought he would try a new crank sensor as I had checked everything else. Sorted.

Good luck.

Rev counter stays stationary, but will occasionally jump. Should ~30 RPM even show though? It didn't strike me as weird..another thing is last night when we were checking the timing, I had the crank sensor disconnected and had to scratch my head for a second as for why I wasn't getting spark now with the DME relay in...plug it in and we were back in business. Well, ignition wise at least!


Originally Posted by MDamen View Post
When you checked spark at the plugs did you use old spark plugs or new? Maybe try putting some of the old plugs back in and see what happens.

Yep, I tried swapping in the old plugs a day or two ago. I've checked for spark with both old and new as well.


Originally Posted by IXLR8 View Post
Although not impossible, I find it highly unlikely that a component failed unless a wire was cut during installation of the engine/transmission.

Do you have a ground wire between the engine/transmission and the frame of the vehicle?

Yes, it's on the lower starter stud..
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:34 AM
  #45  
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Haven't read the whole thread so apologize in advance if this has already been suggested.

Was the crank sensor properly gaped when it was installed? Sounds like you are getting inconsistent/false position information.
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