Last efforts before calling the hook...'95 C2, won't start after engine R&R.
#31
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WOW, sounds like a nightmare.
I would go over most connections, unplug, replug, & make sure they are not bent up or pinched.
I know it sounds obvious, but is the MAF plugged in? Is the TPS set?
I would go over most connections, unplug, replug, & make sure they are not bent up or pinched.
I know it sounds obvious, but is the MAF plugged in? Is the TPS set?
#32
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Travis, I feel for you on this issue. I was thinking could it be that the DME relay may have gone bad during the process. I know it sounds to simple.. But if everything is checking out to spec maybe it is sometime simple.....
#33
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I thought he replaced the DME?
If you can get hold of a compression gauge and run a quick check on a piston, that might hint at something
Following two threads is hard, but I understand why you are doing this.
If we have spark and fuel, then why would it not fire?
1 - No compression for some reason - easy check
2 - Wrong timing - easy check with timing light on all cylinders, that woudl check the entire circuit
3 - Bad fuel - not sure how to check this but you said it does not fire with starting fluid which should work
4 - Open intake (ie. no vacuum) - sounds like its OK
5 - fouled plugs (unlikely all 12)
When you had the timing light, did you get a chance to check all pistons like I suggested?
This problem is certainly not obvious what is wrong... or is that too obvious? :-)
Cheers,
Mike
If you can get hold of a compression gauge and run a quick check on a piston, that might hint at something
Following two threads is hard, but I understand why you are doing this.
If we have spark and fuel, then why would it not fire?
1 - No compression for some reason - easy check
2 - Wrong timing - easy check with timing light on all cylinders, that woudl check the entire circuit
3 - Bad fuel - not sure how to check this but you said it does not fire with starting fluid which should work
4 - Open intake (ie. no vacuum) - sounds like its OK
5 - fouled plugs (unlikely all 12)
When you had the timing light, did you get a chance to check all pistons like I suggested?
This problem is certainly not obvious what is wrong... or is that too obvious? :-)
Cheers,
Mike
#34
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#35
Couild it be the engine is simply flooded?
I also noticed toward the end of the video, there were some smoke or something coming out of the cat when the engine was cranking.
I also noticed toward the end of the video, there were some smoke or something coming out of the cat when the engine was cranking.
#36
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Possible for sure. Solution would be to pull all the easy lower plugs and crank the heck out of it, or blow compressed air into the open plug holes...... :-)
#37
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Yep, I tried replacing the relay and I've tried a jumper as well. Definitely not the DME relay!
If you can get hold of a compression gauge and run a quick check on a piston, that might hint at something
Following two threads is hard, but I understand why you are doing this.
If we have spark and fuel, then why would it not fire?
1 - No compression for some reason - easy check
2 - Wrong timing - easy check with timing light on all cylinders, that woudl check the entire circuit
3 - Bad fuel - not sure how to check this but you said it does not fire with starting fluid which should work
4 - Open intake (ie. no vacuum) - sounds like its OK
5 - fouled plugs (unlikely all 12)
When you had the timing light, did you get a chance to check all pistons like I suggested?
This problem is certainly not obvious what is wrong... or is that too obvious? :-)
Cheers,
Mike
Following two threads is hard, but I understand why you are doing this.
If we have spark and fuel, then why would it not fire?
1 - No compression for some reason - easy check
2 - Wrong timing - easy check with timing light on all cylinders, that woudl check the entire circuit
3 - Bad fuel - not sure how to check this but you said it does not fire with starting fluid which should work
4 - Open intake (ie. no vacuum) - sounds like its OK
5 - fouled plugs (unlikely all 12)
When you had the timing light, did you get a chance to check all pistons like I suggested?
This problem is certainly not obvious what is wrong... or is that too obvious? :-)
Cheers,
Mike
Yeah, I wasn't sure about posting the second thread but..I'm getting desperate, lol!
Compression..well, like you said, easy check I guess. No reason for there not to be though!
Timing - well, we only tested the #1 cylinders. Oops..
Fuel - it's less than a month old, and also the point about the starter fluid.
Vacuum leak - pretty much ruled this one out. Something big enough to keep it from catching at all would be painfully obvious, something small wouldn't keep it from starting.
Plugs - well, I've removed the lower 6 several times, blowing them off every time they go back in. Once I left them out for several hours, turning the engine over occasionally to air it out, and I hit the bottoms of the cylinders with a heat gun. No change. They do come out with a black coating on them every time, they're trying to do something..
Yes, I think that might have been fuel you saw at the end of the video. The garage reeked of gas after that..
#39
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Plugs - well, I've removed the lower 6 several times, blowing them off every time they go back in. Once I left them out for several hours, turning the engine over occasionally to air it out, and I hit the bottoms of the cylinders with a heat gun. No change. They do come out with a black coating on them every time, they're trying to do something...
#41
What does the rev counter do when you are cranking it?
I had a similar problem on an Audi 5V. Good spark and fuel galore. The rev counter stopped working a couple of weeks earlier but the car ran fine. One morning it would not start and I wasted 2 days trying to sort it. No fault codes displayed on vag com. The rev counter needle would bounce up occasionally when cranking. I gave up on the POS and a mobile mechanic thought he would try a new crank sensor as I had checked everything else. Sorted.
Good luck.
I had a similar problem on an Audi 5V. Good spark and fuel galore. The rev counter stopped working a couple of weeks earlier but the car ran fine. One morning it would not start and I wasted 2 days trying to sort it. No fault codes displayed on vag com. The rev counter needle would bounce up occasionally when cranking. I gave up on the POS and a mobile mechanic thought he would try a new crank sensor as I had checked everything else. Sorted.
Good luck.
#43
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Although not impossible, I find it highly unlikely that a component failed unless a wire was cut during installation of the engine/transmission.
Do you have a ground wire between the engine/transmission and the frame of the vehicle?
Do you have a ground wire between the engine/transmission and the frame of the vehicle?
#44
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Yes, the Bosch part numbers are the same as the old plugs, which I believe is the recommended plug. FR5DTC I believe.
Yes, it was a snug fit, I had to tap the flywheel with a rubber mallet to get it seated.
What does the rev counter do when you are cranking it?
I had a similar problem on an Audi 5V. Good spark and fuel galore. The rev counter stopped working a couple of weeks earlier but the car ran fine. One morning it would not start and I wasted 2 days trying to sort it. No fault codes displayed on vag com. The rev counter needle would bounce up occasionally when cranking. I gave up on the POS and a mobile mechanic thought he would try a new crank sensor as I had checked everything else. Sorted.
Good luck.
I had a similar problem on an Audi 5V. Good spark and fuel galore. The rev counter stopped working a couple of weeks earlier but the car ran fine. One morning it would not start and I wasted 2 days trying to sort it. No fault codes displayed on vag com. The rev counter needle would bounce up occasionally when cranking. I gave up on the POS and a mobile mechanic thought he would try a new crank sensor as I had checked everything else. Sorted.
Good luck.
Rev counter stays stationary, but will occasionally jump. Should ~30 RPM even show though? It didn't strike me as weird..another thing is last night when we were checking the timing, I had the crank sensor disconnected and had to scratch my head for a second as for why I wasn't getting spark now with the DME relay in...plug it in and we were back in business. Well, ignition wise at least!
Yep, I tried swapping in the old plugs a day or two ago. I've checked for spark with both old and new as well.
Yes, it's on the lower starter stud..
#45
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Haven't read the whole thread so apologize in advance if this has already been suggested.
Was the crank sensor properly gaped when it was installed? Sounds like you are getting inconsistent/false position information.
Was the crank sensor properly gaped when it was installed? Sounds like you are getting inconsistent/false position information.