dgmattingley

Yeah, I got a new #8, as well as new main and intermediate bearings.
I had a heck of a time with the crank pulley bolt, but a long pipe and a lot of cursing finally did the trick.

You're in Paris, where do you work on your car? I ask because my 993 and I are moving there next summer.

cheers,
Don

geolab

5 minutes to the west of Paris, have arranged an empty loft into a workshop, you could use it whenever you want. more than welcome.

dgmattingley

Below are a few pictures of the unique cam timing tools used to time the cams on a 993. After considering using 911/964 sprockets and timing the cams with a dial gauge and mechanical rockers, I managed to get my hands on the expensive 993 tools and decided to stick with the 993 sprockets.

First step is to install the 3 locks. 2 tools lock the cams in place (with the punch marks at the top), while another tool locks the crank (at TDC) to the intermediate shaft. Then you install mechanical chain tensioners (I used brake pad spreaders with holes drilled in them), and get the tension nice and tight. Finally, you tighten the cam bolts, while counterholding the cam sprocket using a cam sprocket holder to keep from transferring load to the chains and intermediate shaft.

After both cam bolts were tightened to spec, I used a dial gauge and installed mechanical lifters on intake cyl 1 and 4 to measure the valve lift. With a little experimentation I managed to get the z block to work (I think/hope), and took multiple readings on each side. Either I took bad readings or the tools worked, because on each side I got measurements between .99 and 1.01 mm, which I believe would be right in range of the expected measurements for standard 993 cams.

This weekend, if all goes well, I'll be firing her up for the first time since I dropped the engine in November 2011.

Mike J

Looks good Don! Can't wait till the fireup - hopefully you did not do my major first screw up and time both the cams to the same TDC.... (i.e. forgot one side is 180 degrees from the other side...).

Take a video - that would be fun!

Cheers,

Mike

jo-hans

I suspect a few years and I will be doing the same.

CaptainGSR

Nice job!
Top end at 56k.... are you planning a ground up restoration by 100K? :-)

geolab

I figure this is impossible with the factory cam tools,
this threads rocks...

dgmattingley

Yeah, no kidding. But now I can have that warm and fuzzy feeling that comes with new chains and main and intermediate bearings.
I think you're right, using the factory tools makes the job a no-brainer. Now, hopefully it runs.

Geolab, this seems like something you might know: In reattaching all the eletrical connects on the left side of the engine (1-3), I have two left over. They both look like the connectors that plug into the little vacuum units that are attached to the varioram directly above the intake runners, but I can't figure out what they're for. I know that they are not for because I've accounted for all of these: injectors, head temp, knock sensor, flywheel speed, heater blower, vacuum units. Obviously I didn't do a very good job of labeling before I tore everything apart.

geolab

Here is a 'clear and present' explanation of the case, if not clear, I could elaborate, all the best

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-pictures.html

dgmattingley

Thanks! This is exactly what I was looking for. I'll take a look and let you know if I have questions.

dgmattingley

Quiz: what would cause an engine to not shut off?

I finally got the engine installed and started the car last night. Good news: it fired right up. Bad news: it wouldn't shut off. I did the routine of pulling the DME relay and firing the starter 3 times to build oil pressure. Then I put the DME in, turned the key, and it fired up immediately, almost took me by surprise. So I start to press the throttle to build up to 2000rpms but it doesn't respond. OK, probably too much play in the throttle cable or something got hung up, so I immediately turn the key to shut it down and....NOTHING. It just keeps running. I pull the key all the way out, still running. Uh oh. I try putting the key back in and turning it back and forth a few times, still not working. So I jump out and pull the DME relay. Still running. Finally I bite the bullet and undo the battery and it dies instantly.

Maybe firing the starter for so long somehow caused the ignition switch to fail? Other ideas?

Mike J

First of all, congratulations on the startup Don! Nice job!

What I found weird is the car still ran after the DME was pulled - that should be impossible. The ignition and fuel pump is off. If you pull the battery, it should still run if the alternator is hook up correctly - so that was obviously not working correctly OR the the wiring got hook up wrong so the battery was running the fuel pump/ignition directly, not through the DME >I really do not know how that would happen ...

So the car would not start without the DME in, correct?
But the car continued to run without the DME in, correct?
And the car dies immediately when the battery is unhooked.

Hmmm - this one is interesting. I guess you could not reach into the engine bay to crank the engine speed up for breakin?

Cheers,

Mike

dgmattingley

Mike,
Yeah, I don't know whether to feel happy or depressed. It started up instantly...it just didn't want to stop!

You have it exactly right -- it wouldn't fire without the DME relay, but the starter worked as expected when I turned the key. Then I put in the DME relay and turned the key and it fired right up. When I tried to shut it down with the key it wouldn't turn off. So I pulled the DME relay and it continued to run, that was probably about 30seconds to a minute. Then I unhooked the battery and it shut down immediately. I know the starter is connected properly, and I'm fairly sure the alternator is since there are three distinct fittings with unique nut/bolt sizes so difficult to screw up.

lopro

nice indepth build and lost of great info to be had, thanks for posting and good luck with the starting/stopping issue. Nice thread/nice work.

aaronutk

I had something similar happen on an old VW diesel Rabbit. I would turn the ignition off and the car would run at a low idle. At first I thought it was just "dieseling", the switch just cuts off the fuel and I figured somehow it wasn't cutting all the way off. After a day and a half later the starter was smoked. Turned out it was the starter solenoid sticking. The starter was staying engaged and running after the car fired and continued to run when I turned the ignition off! The starter only lasted a few miles of driving.

Not sure if the same is possible on the 993, but you may way to check the starter is disengaging. The only way to stop it may be to kill the battery.

--Aaron