Engine drop, top end rebuild, and more
#121
Instructor
Do you guys always remove the starter motor or is there a "trick"?
Thanks in advance
#122
Race Car
I remove the starter. I drop the motor a little, not quite half way and then remove the starter and the slave cylinder. I couldn't see any way to get the axle past the starter without removing it.
Last edited by 95_993; 08-10-2020 at 08:00 AM.
#123
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
You guys may think this funny, but often I just pull the driveshafts out - since I have a snap-on torque wrench that will do 650ft-lbs, it's pretty simple and quick to pull the hub nuts and pull them out, then there is no issues with clearances and lots more room when the engine is back in. I undo the hub nut when I start, or have someone on the brakes to hold the hub still.
I have also dropped engines with the starter still attached, it takes some energy and swearing since you really need to swing the tail of the transmission around to maneuver the driveshafts without them catching on the engine. I have a roller stand the engine is supported on so I can move it around a lot, but if its on a fixed scissor lift it's much harder. Removing the starter does make it easier for sure.
Cheersm
Mike
I have also dropped engines with the starter still attached, it takes some energy and swearing since you really need to swing the tail of the transmission around to maneuver the driveshafts without them catching on the engine. I have a roller stand the engine is supported on so I can move it around a lot, but if its on a fixed scissor lift it's much harder. Removing the starter does make it easier for sure.
Cheersm
Mike
#124
Instructor
Thanks for feedback
I removed the clutch slave cylinder first . No problem doing this with engine still in "normal" place, e.g. not lowered at all. Then this gave me some access to reach the starter motor "hidden" nut by hugging the transmission, as explained here http://p-car.com/diy/starter/
I did not have to use the "hex bit + extension + universal joint described in link above. I just used a hex bit (size 10) and a combination spanner. I guess each on their own :-) The nut was very easy to undo. I guess it is rarely tight since access is quite restricted...
Ran out of time last night to drop the engine....so this evening is drop day..
I removed the clutch slave cylinder first . No problem doing this with engine still in "normal" place, e.g. not lowered at all. Then this gave me some access to reach the starter motor "hidden" nut by hugging the transmission, as explained here http://p-car.com/diy/starter/
I did not have to use the "hex bit + extension + universal joint described in link above. I just used a hex bit (size 10) and a combination spanner. I guess each on their own :-) The nut was very easy to undo. I guess it is rarely tight since access is quite restricted...
Ran out of time last night to drop the engine....so this evening is drop day..