Engine drop, top end rebuild, and more
12-21-2011, 12:29 PM
#32
next winter i plan on pulling the engine.. so i have 12 months to work through the process in my head (everyday 
)
What are thoughts around disconnecting the engine on a dolly and then lifting the car up on jackstands? I dont have the equipment to lower the engine and thought this would be a neat way of getting it apart.
phil.
)What are thoughts around disconnecting the engine on a dolly and then lifting the car up on jackstands? I dont have the equipment to lower the engine and thought this would be a neat way of getting it apart.
phil.
12-21-2011, 12:59 PM
#33
next winter i plan on pulling the engine.. so i have 12 months to work through the process in my head (everyday )
What are thoughts around disconnecting the engine on a dolly and then lifting the car up on jackstands? I dont have the equipment to lower the engine and thought this would be a neat way of getting it apart.
phil.
)What are thoughts around disconnecting the engine on a dolly and then lifting the car up on jackstands? I dont have the equipment to lower the engine and thought this would be a neat way of getting it apart.
phil.
12-21-2011, 01:40 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
next winter i plan on pulling the engine.. so i have 12 months to work through the process in my head (everyday )
What are thoughts around disconnecting the engine on a dolly and then lifting the car up on jackstands? I dont have the equipment to lower the engine and thought this would be a neat way of getting it apart.
phil.
)What are thoughts around disconnecting the engine on a dolly and then lifting the car up on jackstands? I dont have the equipment to lower the engine and thought this would be a neat way of getting it apart.
phil.
12-21-2011, 02:40 PM
#35
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next winter i plan on pulling the engine.. so i have 12 months to work through the process in my head (everyday )
What are thoughts around disconnecting the engine on a dolly and then lifting the car up on jackstands? I dont have the equipment to lower the engine and thought this would be a neat way of getting it apart.
phil.
)What are thoughts around disconnecting the engine on a dolly and then lifting the car up on jackstands? I dont have the equipment to lower the engine and thought this would be a neat way of getting it apart.
phil.
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...cial_stripdown
I lowered the engine down a bit on two jacks onto a mobile platform, and then lifted the car up. You only need to lift the rear of the car over the engine so you can roll it out
There is not one correct way to do this, several different ways. Do it the way that uses the materials/tools you have on hand. Be careful and safe though.
Cheers,
Mike
12-21-2011, 09:09 PM
#36
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I used bungee cords to compress and position the half shafts out of the way. I did not have any problems clearing them while lowering the engine straight down or reinstalling it. I did have spotters when lowering the engine just in case but was able to reinstall all on my own.
I recommend the cleat & a ATV jack. It made the drop easy & safe.
12-28-2011, 05:15 PM
#38
Instructor
Thread Starter
Since I last posted I’ve made a lot of progress. After tearing everything down to the short block I decided to take the plunge and go ahead and open the case. Not necessarily a rational decision, but curiosity got the best of me. In reality it isn't that much more work or expense, and since the car will see significant track miles I wanted to know what it all looked like in there. And...it's a lot of fun. Thanks to my friends John, Richard, and Lonnie for helping lift the engine onto the stand and tearing apart the timing chain housings (pic #1 below).
A few observations (remember, I'm a total amateur at this, your results may vary) about tearing down the long block:
-- The single most useful tool during this process has been my $12 rubber mallet from Auto Zone. It is the MVP of my tools.
-- Contrary to Dempsey's book, I'd recommend getting some type of flywheel lock as it's awfully easy to bend a case stud and screw up the threads using/abusing his method (ask me how I know). I used this one and it worked great: http://www.automotion.com/time-savin...r-porsche.html
-- Make sure you have some a 12mm triple square socket on hand. I tried AutoZone, Sears, and others and eventually had to order one. You'll need it for the head nuts and flywheel bolts. If you want to take the heads and cam housing off as a unit, you'll need one of the long, skinny sockets to get past the cam housing to the head nuts. I just removed piece by piece and a normal socket worked fine.
-- There is a decent 5 arm yoke available on ebay for $89.99. It worked fine, but you have to drill holes in it to use the locking pin that comes with the engine stand.
-- Remember that when you rotate the engine in the stand a ton of oil will drip out. I seemed to forget this every time.
-- When removing the cylinders/pistons do one at a time, as in take the cylinder off and then rotate crank to raise piston and remove clip and wrist pin. This will make it easier to turn the crank and not have the pistons getting caught ****-eyed in the spigots and banging against the head studs.
-- The clips holding the wrist pins in the rods are a major pain. I ended up using an eyeglass screwdriver, tapping it under with my MVP rubber mallet, and then grabbing with needlenose pliers. Half the pins went flying across the room. The other half tried their best to fall into the case through the cylinder spigots. The wrist pin for cylinder 6 was really stuck and Dempsey's small screwdriver method was not working. I ended up using 3/8" socket extension arm and a rubber mallet and it finally loosened up. Why is it always one little thing like this that takes so much time?
OK, some pics:
A few observations (remember, I'm a total amateur at this, your results may vary) about tearing down the long block:
-- The single most useful tool during this process has been my $12 rubber mallet from Auto Zone. It is the MVP of my tools.
-- Contrary to Dempsey's book, I'd recommend getting some type of flywheel lock as it's awfully easy to bend a case stud and screw up the threads using/abusing his method (ask me how I know). I used this one and it worked great: http://www.automotion.com/time-savin...r-porsche.html
-- Make sure you have some a 12mm triple square socket on hand. I tried AutoZone, Sears, and others and eventually had to order one. You'll need it for the head nuts and flywheel bolts. If you want to take the heads and cam housing off as a unit, you'll need one of the long, skinny sockets to get past the cam housing to the head nuts. I just removed piece by piece and a normal socket worked fine.
-- There is a decent 5 arm yoke available on ebay for $89.99. It worked fine, but you have to drill holes in it to use the locking pin that comes with the engine stand.
-- Remember that when you rotate the engine in the stand a ton of oil will drip out. I seemed to forget this every time.
-- When removing the cylinders/pistons do one at a time, as in take the cylinder off and then rotate crank to raise piston and remove clip and wrist pin. This will make it easier to turn the crank and not have the pistons getting caught ****-eyed in the spigots and banging against the head studs.
-- The clips holding the wrist pins in the rods are a major pain. I ended up using an eyeglass screwdriver, tapping it under with my MVP rubber mallet, and then grabbing with needlenose pliers. Half the pins went flying across the room. The other half tried their best to fall into the case through the cylinder spigots. The wrist pin for cylinder 6 was really stuck and Dempsey's small screwdriver method was not working. I ended up using 3/8" socket extension arm and a rubber mallet and it finally loosened up. Why is it always one little thing like this that takes so much time?
OK, some pics:
12-28-2011, 05:24 PM
#40
Instructor
Thread Starter
When that pulley nut finally turned I let out a victory shout, and stood there for about 5 minutes contemplating the meaning of the universe and why sometimes little things can take up so much time. Seriously, it took less time to remove all the nuts and split the case!
12-28-2011, 06:53 PM
#42
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NOW comes the fun part, cleaning and putting it all together~!
That carbon does not look very heavy or unusual. You can get the pistons/case/parts cleaned. I used a professional shop to check the rod balance, press in the ARP bolts, re-bush the rods. I checked the ring clearances, piston clearances, main bearing clearances, etc myself.
Why are you splitting the case? Just curious, its lots of extra work/expense involved, and in my case if was not really worth it, everthing was in good shape.
I assume you are keeping the parts in separate bags for tracking?
Cheers,
Mike
That carbon does not look very heavy or unusual. You can get the pistons/case/parts cleaned. I used a professional shop to check the rod balance, press in the ARP bolts, re-bush the rods. I checked the ring clearances, piston clearances, main bearing clearances, etc myself.
Why are you splitting the case? Just curious, its lots of extra work/expense involved, and in my case if was not really worth it, everthing was in good shape.
I assume you are keeping the parts in separate bags for tracking?
Cheers,
Mike
12-28-2011, 07:45 PM
#43
Rennlist Member
Since I last posted I’ve made a lot of progress. After tearing everything down to the short block I decided to take the plunge and go ahead and open the case. Not necessarily a rational decision, but curiosity got the best of me. In reality it isn't that much more work or expense, and since the car will see significant track miles I wanted to know what it all looked like in there. And...it's a lot of fun. Thanks to my friends John, Richard, and Lonnie for helping lift the engine onto the stand and tearing apart the timing chain housings (pic #1 below).
A few observations (remember, I'm a total amateur at this, your results may vary) about tearing down the long block:
-- The single most useful tool during this process has been my $12 rubber mallet from Auto Zone. It is the MVP of my tools.
-- Contrary to Dempsey's book, I'd recommend getting some type of flywheel lock as it's awfully easy to bend a case stud and screw up the threads using/abusing his method (ask me how I know). I used this one and it worked great: http://www.automotion.com/time-savin...r-porsche.html
-- Make sure you have some a 12mm triple square socket on hand. I tried AutoZone, Sears, and others and eventually had to order one. You'll need it for the head nuts and flywheel bolts. If you want to take the heads and cam housing off as a unit, you'll need one of the long, skinny sockets to get past the cam housing to the head nuts. I just removed piece by piece and a normal socket worked fine.
-- There is a decent 5 arm yoke available on ebay for $89.99. It worked fine, but you have to drill holes in it to use the locking pin that comes with the engine stand.
-- Remember that when you rotate the engine in the stand a ton of oil will drip out. I seemed to forget this every time.
-- When removing the cylinders/pistons do one at a time, as in take the cylinder off and then rotate crank to raise piston and remove clip and wrist pin. This will make it easier to turn the crank and not have the pistons getting caught ****-eyed in the spigots and banging against the head studs.
-- The clips holding the wrist pins in the rods are a major pain. I ended up using an eyeglass screwdriver, tapping it under with my MVP rubber mallet, and then grabbing with needlenose pliers. Half the pins went flying across the room. The other half tried their best to fall into the case through the cylinder spigots. The wrist pin for cylinder 6 was really stuck and Dempsey's small screwdriver method was not working. I ended up using 3/8" socket extension arm and a rubber mallet and it finally loosened up. Why is it always one little thing like this that takes so much time?
OK, some pics:
A few observations (remember, I'm a total amateur at this, your results may vary) about tearing down the long block:
-- The single most useful tool during this process has been my $12 rubber mallet from Auto Zone. It is the MVP of my tools.
-- Contrary to Dempsey's book, I'd recommend getting some type of flywheel lock as it's awfully easy to bend a case stud and screw up the threads using/abusing his method (ask me how I know). I used this one and it worked great: http://www.automotion.com/time-savin...r-porsche.html
-- Make sure you have some a 12mm triple square socket on hand. I tried AutoZone, Sears, and others and eventually had to order one. You'll need it for the head nuts and flywheel bolts. If you want to take the heads and cam housing off as a unit, you'll need one of the long, skinny sockets to get past the cam housing to the head nuts. I just removed piece by piece and a normal socket worked fine.
-- There is a decent 5 arm yoke available on ebay for $89.99. It worked fine, but you have to drill holes in it to use the locking pin that comes with the engine stand.
-- Remember that when you rotate the engine in the stand a ton of oil will drip out. I seemed to forget this every time.
-- When removing the cylinders/pistons do one at a time, as in take the cylinder off and then rotate crank to raise piston and remove clip and wrist pin. This will make it easier to turn the crank and not have the pistons getting caught ****-eyed in the spigots and banging against the head studs.
-- The clips holding the wrist pins in the rods are a major pain. I ended up using an eyeglass screwdriver, tapping it under with my MVP rubber mallet, and then grabbing with needlenose pliers. Half the pins went flying across the room. The other half tried their best to fall into the case through the cylinder spigots. The wrist pin for cylinder 6 was really stuck and Dempsey's small screwdriver method was not working. I ended up using 3/8" socket extension arm and a rubber mallet and it finally loosened up. Why is it always one little thing like this that takes so much time?
OK, some pics:
Agree with Mike's post below about carbon. Should have seen what it was like in the 2.7L (and earlier) days.
12-28-2011, 09:29 PM
#44
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Oh, what are you going to use to put the circlips back into the pistons? I had to make up a custom tool or buy something - it makes it easy and these is one spot you do not want to screw up (well, there are several spots where you do not want to screw up).
12-28-2011, 10:24 PM
#45
Rennlist Member
Also, spend a couple of bucks for an oil pan like this. That engine will weep until you re-assemble.