Doing Lower Valve Cover Gasket....Pics Added!
11-22-2011, 11:33 AM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Doing Lower Valve Cover Gasket....Pics Added!
I will be doing my lower cover gaskets when the car goes on jackstands for the winter. Ordered new valve cover bolts x 22. They came with small washers already attached. I looked on my car and noticed that there is a slightly larger washer below the small washer on the bolt. Should I have ordered that too? If so what's the part #? Is it worth reusing the larger washer with new bolts? TIA
N
N
Last edited by P-daddy; 11-22-2011 at 12:57 PM.
11-22-2011, 11:42 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
There is only one washer. I think you are seeing the sleeve that is part of the valve cover itself, unless someone added extra washers for some reason.
Last edited by FisterD; 11-22-2011 at 01:45 PM.
11-22-2011, 06:10 PM
#7
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Trending Topics
11-22-2011, 10:19 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
Too many here have complained that these fasteners are too soft and that they have rounded them out when it is likely that the bit wasn't inserted all the way due to dirt or corrosion in the hex cavity.
A few minutes of time can save you hours of work.
Valve cover pics that might help clarify things.
11-22-2011, 11:04 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hey thanks Alex for the info. Those photos are just insane. What did you use to clean up the valve cover once removed?
Just make sure you use a quality 5 mm hex bit on a 3/8" drive socket .
Too many here have complained that these fasteners are too soft and that they have rounded them out when it is likely that the bit wasn't inserted all the way due to dirt or corrosion in the hex cavity.
A few minutes of time can save you hours of work.
Valve cover pics that might help clarify things.
Too many here have complained that these fasteners are too soft and that they have rounded them out when it is likely that the bit wasn't inserted all the way due to dirt or corrosion in the hex cavity.
A few minutes of time can save you hours of work.
Valve cover pics that might help clarify things.
11-22-2011, 11:12 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
Facto AT30, a water baser degreaser.
I've used this product to clean my 993 as well as my other cars/motorcycles since 1986. Its the best product I've come across.
I've used this product to clean my 993 as well as my other cars/motorcycles since 1986. Its the best product I've come across.
11-23-2011, 02:36 AM
#12
Pro
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 628
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I recently did mine. Following Alex and Mike J's advice, I cleaned them with a water soluble citrus cleaner. Then cleaned them again. Then used some brake cleaner on the stubborn grease. Cleanliness is key.
11-23-2011, 03:50 AM
#13
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
And watch the torque - a common problem is people crank on the bolts, the sleeves bottom out and after a bit there is no compression on the gaskets, and you have a leak again.
Its 7 ft-lbs. That is just snug, not too tight. I use a micro-torque wrench, but I also found my finger-a-matic works fine too - just have to feel what not too tight is. There are some bolts that there is no way you are going to get to with a torque wrench while the engine is in the car, or the exhaust system is still attached, so get used to what it feel like. you also need to pay attention to evenness - its key that all the bolts have a bit snugness to them. I so lubricate the gaskets with some Valve lubricant - it keeps the rubber soft and works great.
I can post exactly what I use but I will do it tomorrow - I do not remember and I have to run down to the shop to check.
Cheers,
Mike
Its 7 ft-lbs. That is just snug, not too tight. I use a micro-torque wrench, but I also found my finger-a-matic works fine too - just have to feel what not too tight is. There are some bolts that there is no way you are going to get to with a torque wrench while the engine is in the car, or the exhaust system is still attached, so get used to what it feel like. you also need to pay attention to evenness - its key that all the bolts have a bit snugness to them. I so lubricate the gaskets with some Valve lubricant - it keeps the rubber soft and works great.
I can post exactly what I use but I will do it tomorrow - I do not remember and I have to run down to the shop to check.
Cheers,
Mike
11-23-2011, 09:37 AM
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Mike, thank you for the tips and offering to post info. I'm planning on picking up a small torque wrench prob in in/lbs. Is it 1 ft/lb = 12 in/lbs? So 7 ft/lbs = 84 in/lbs correct?
And watch the torque - a common problem is people crank on the bolts, the sleeves bottom out and after a bit there is no compression on the gaskets, and you have a leak again.
Its 7 ft-lbs. That is just snug, not too tight. I use a micro-torque wrench, but I also found my finger-a-matic works fine too - just have to feel what not too tight is. There are some bolts that there is no way you are going to get to with a torque wrench while the engine is in the car, or the exhaust system is still attached, so get used to what it feel like. you also need to pay attention to evenness - its key that all the bolts have a bit snugness to them. I so lubricate the gaskets with some Valve lubricant - it keeps the rubber soft and works great.
I can post exactly what I use but I will do it tomorrow - I do not remember and I have to run down to the shop to check.
Cheers,
Mike
Its 7 ft-lbs. That is just snug, not too tight. I use a micro-torque wrench, but I also found my finger-a-matic works fine too - just have to feel what not too tight is. There are some bolts that there is no way you are going to get to with a torque wrench while the engine is in the car, or the exhaust system is still attached, so get used to what it feel like. you also need to pay attention to evenness - its key that all the bolts have a bit snugness to them. I so lubricate the gaskets with some Valve lubricant - it keeps the rubber soft and works great.
I can post exactly what I use but I will do it tomorrow - I do not remember and I have to run down to the shop to check.
Cheers,
Mike
11-23-2011, 10:27 AM
#15
Rennlist Member
I also coat my valve cover seals with a thin coat of oil so that when they are tightened down, it allows the seals to "walk" and not bind...not that there is much movement, but why not.
I use a Snap-On QD1R200 that goes from 40 to 200 lbf.in. and use a Snap-On TMAMXS5E 5 mm hex stubby in a 1/4" drive to get to all of the valve cover fasteners.
You can get Snap-On equivalent wrenches from Precision Instruments, who I believe make them for Snap-On. They are a bit cheaper.