Doing Lower Valve Cover Gasket....Pics Added!
11-23-2011, 10:42 AM
#16
Race Director
Several years ago I created a Torque Conversion chart that I keep under the lid of my toolbox in a plastic liner. Very handy. If I can I'll attach them and include my Metric conversion chart.
Edit: Well RL doesn't like the .xls version of the chart but hopefully the pdf version will work.
Edit: Well RL doesn't like the .xls version of the chart but hopefully the pdf version will work.
Last edited by Slow Guy; 12-24-2014 at 01:40 PM.
11-23-2011, 10:57 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
What are your thoughts on tool brands other than Snap on? I have a pretty good selection of Craftsman tools. I don't mind spending a few more bucks to get quality hex sockets but why waste if I don't have to.
11-23-2011, 11:10 AM
#18
Race Director
11-23-2011, 12:06 PM
#19
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Torque wrenches are tricky - there is getting a good one, as well as making sure you know how to use it.
I would lookup a torque calibration company in your area before purchasing a wrench and ask them if they can calibrate the wrench you are considering buying - that gives a very good indication of the quality. If they say they cannot get that make/brand of wrench to calibrate, then do not buy it. Craftsman tools have gone downhill over the last years, better stick to better brands like Snapon, etc. This is especially true for a low torque wrench like we are talking here.
Also, make sure you use a steady motion when torquing, no jerking, no leaning on the wrench. I have seen people show some pretty bad techniques especially around wheel nuts - they use long extensions, do not support the wrench, jerk it to torque, try to torque statically (i.e. it takes more torque to start a nut going than when its spinning, the difference between static and dynamic friction), so they get to about 85ft-lbs, stop, then try to get to 96ft ft-lbs but the torque wrench click because it takes more than 96 to get the nut rotating again.... ** sigh **
Cheers,
Mike
I would lookup a torque calibration company in your area before purchasing a wrench and ask them if they can calibrate the wrench you are considering buying - that gives a very good indication of the quality. If they say they cannot get that make/brand of wrench to calibrate, then do not buy it. Craftsman tools have gone downhill over the last years, better stick to better brands like Snapon, etc. This is especially true for a low torque wrench like we are talking here.
Also, make sure you use a steady motion when torquing, no jerking, no leaning on the wrench. I have seen people show some pretty bad techniques especially around wheel nuts - they use long extensions, do not support the wrench, jerk it to torque, try to torque statically (i.e. it takes more torque to start a nut going than when its spinning, the difference between static and dynamic friction), so they get to about 85ft-lbs, stop, then try to get to 96ft ft-lbs but the torque wrench click because it takes more than 96 to get the nut rotating again.... ** sigh **
Cheers,
Mike
11-23-2011, 12:10 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Just make sure you use a quality 5 mm hex bit on a 3/8" drive socket .
Too many here have complained that these fasteners are too soft and that they have rounded them out when it is likely that the bit wasn't inserted all the way due to dirt or corrosion in the hex cavity.
A few minutes of time can save you hours of work.
Valve cover pics that might help clarify things.
Too many here have complained that these fasteners are too soft and that they have rounded them out when it is likely that the bit wasn't inserted all the way due to dirt or corrosion in the hex cavity.
A few minutes of time can save you hours of work.
Valve cover pics that might help clarify things.
11-23-2011, 12:43 PM
#21
Race Director
Also, make sure you use a steady motion when torquing, no jerking, no leaning on the wrench. I have seen people show some pretty bad techniques especially around wheel nuts - they use long extensions, do not support the wrench, jerk it to torque, try to torque statically (i.e. it takes more torque to start a nut going than when its spinning, the difference between static and dynamic friction), so they get to about 85ft-lbs, stop, then try to get to 96ft ft-lbs but the torque wrench click because it takes more than 96 to get the nut rotating again.... ** sigh **
Cheers,
Mike
11-23-2011, 12:53 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Its a matter of selection as well. I find Snap-On a one-stop tool store...they seem to have it all.
Things to consider when looking at a ratchet is ratchet action, for example. Try a few different ones and you'll see a difference.
Things to consider when looking at a ratchet is ratchet action, for example. Try a few different ones and you'll see a difference.
11-23-2011, 01:21 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Wow, very informative stuff here. I also do the 2 stage torque for lug nuts. But I see what you mean in one smooth motion on single bolt applications.
11-23-2011, 04:47 PM
#25
Racer
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Treated myself to this unit a few years ago when I bought a $26,000.00 BMW motorcycle. Figured it was worth the investment. Damn hard to see a dial type T-wrench upside down underneath the engine when torquing the oil drain plug for example. Love the 'tone and vib' feature. Plus the 'memory' is very useful...
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
Jim
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
Jim
11-23-2011, 07:07 PM
#26
Looks like this is a job that can be done quite easily for the lower valve covers. I have some minor leaks and with 2 993s it might be worth to get used to this type of repairs. Is there a DIY for the upper covers and the chain housing? It might be worth replacing the spark plugs at the same time.
11-23-2011, 07:27 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
I replaced all 12 spark plugs while I was at it.
You can just see the edge of the upper valve cover...
11-23-2011, 07:27 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Not sure about the chain housing but there is a diy on upper/lower covers on p-car.com
Looks like this is a job that can be done quite easily for the lower valve covers. I have some minor leaks and with 2 993s it might be worth to get used to this type of repairs. Is there a DIY for the upper covers and the chain housing? It might be worth replacing the spark plugs at the same time.
11-24-2011, 12:42 AM
#29
more torque wrench options. and if your SFbay, they have san jose location for calibration.
http://www.mountztorque.com/
http://www.mountztorque.com/
11-24-2011, 01:22 AM
#30
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You can find an excellent write up on the chain covers at this web site:
http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/
Look for "chain covers" on the left side. You'll need to review a couple other of his guides to learn how to remove the bumper and the engine carrier.
He provides excellent instructions with pictures.
http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/
Look for "chain covers" on the left side. You'll need to review a couple other of his guides to learn how to remove the bumper and the engine carrier.
He provides excellent instructions with pictures.