Check your Motive Power Bleeder!!!
#16
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Seen way too many of these hoses fail, lol. I finally gave mine away, and switched to vacuum air powered bleeding. Much cleaner, much quicker, much easier.
#17
Three Wheelin'
Sounds like a mess, Brake fluid is nasty stuff. I do as th others have said just use the bleeder to pressurize the system, in fact mine looks like the day I bought it.
#18
Mine also failed at the crimp after several years of occasional use. Think I'll just use the "dry" method from now on.
BTW, if you are using the dry method, don't let the fluid level fall below 1/2 in the reservoir or you'll intoduce air into the clutch. It's much more of a pain to bleed the clutch.
BTW, if you are using the dry method, don't let the fluid level fall below 1/2 in the reservoir or you'll intoduce air into the clutch. It's much more of a pain to bleed the clutch.
#19
Race Director
I use it both ways, depending on the task. If you're bleeding the clutch system do it first when the system is full. Many times the pickup in the res. for the clutch system is very high and will run dry very quickly if not done when the res. is full. My 968 was a big learning experience on that subject.
Also, the bleeder sold by BavAuto.com is far superior to the std. Motive bleeder even though it's made by Motive.
http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp and search for "PB03K"
Also, the bleeder sold by BavAuto.com is far superior to the std. Motive bleeder even though it's made by Motive.
http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp and search for "PB03K"
#20
Ive used the wet method, but havent had any issues. I will try the dry method next time.... but how do you fully purge a line without purging the reservoir (not the bleeder tank). You have to empty the reservoir in order to purge one line with the Motive bleeder using the dry method. Also, how do you know that you are not introducing air in the brake line manifold..... I know it sucks to have oil spray from a leak, but the beauty of going wet is to have brake fluid in the line all the time minimizing introduction of air. Going the dry method seems more chances of introducing air into the lines..... isnt that the reason they invented the bleeder with a tank, to bleed the lines using the wet method....or is my logic is flawed?
#21
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Ive used the wet method, but havent had any issues. I will try the dry method next time.... but how do you fully purge a line without purging the reservoir (not the bleeder tank). You have to empty the reservoir in order to purge one line with the Motive bleeder using the dry method. Also, how do you know that you are not introducing air in the brake line manifold..... I know it sucks to have oil spray from a leak, but the beauty of going wet is to have brake fluid in the line all the time minimizing introduction of air. Going the dry method seems more chances of introducing air into the lines..... isnt that the reason they invented the bleeder with a tank, to bleed the lines using the wet method....or is my logic is flawed?
I could see doing one step to push the old stuff out, but I'm not sure how the car's on-board reservoir would have enough capacity to hold sufficient replacement fluid for just one step? A second topping off of the on-board reservoir would introduce air into the system, right? Or only if you let that go dry? I expect the dry method requires more vigilance in monitoring fluid level, but it would also result in using less fluid. Normally I buy 2 liters to pour in the Motiv, but I feel like I only need 1.
Either way, I'm buyin' some proper hose clamps!!!
Last edited by dcdude; 08-24-2011 at 12:38 PM.
#22
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- top-up the vehicle's hydraulic fluid reservoir.
- screw the cap from your "empty" Motive Power bleeder onto the vehicle's hydraulic fluid reservoir.
- pump up the Motive Power to the recommended pressure.
- bleed the caliper of choice or clutch slave cylinder.
- keep an eye on the fluid level or have a helper tell you that you are getting low.
- release the air from the Motive Power bleeder by unscrewing the pump.
- add more brake fluid to the vehicle's hydraulic fluid reservoir.
- repeat.
Last edited by IXLR8; 08-23-2011 at 03:43 PM.
#23
Three Wheelin'
keep an eye on the fluid level or have a helper tell you that you are getting low.
Last edited by 2Many Cars; 08-24-2011 at 02:57 PM.
#24
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I use my shop compressed air, running through a water seperator and pressure regulator - use about 10psi. Been doing this i started to work on 911's about 19 years ago.
Its not a pain to keep the reservoir full ... And there is lotd of fluid there. Even if you below the pickup for the clutch its not an issue unless you use the clutch ... Just fill it Up again.
Cheers
Mike
Its not a pain to keep the reservoir full ... And there is lotd of fluid there. Even if you below the pickup for the clutch its not an issue unless you use the clutch ... Just fill it Up again.
Cheers
Mike
#25
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Lol ...truly looks like I am the only schmuck who uses the Motive as it was designed! I feel like a 'tard, yet then again, I was using it as it was intended!
FWIW, now that I have a fresh tube and good hose clamps (i.e. "proper" clamps, dag nabbit!!!), I think I will continue to use it "wet" for the simple reason that I don't relish the thought of having to unscrew the cap everytime I need to refill the reservoir. I understand why you folks do what you do, but heck, that seems slow (but admittedly a lot faster than having to clean up the trunk! ...lol!). But rest assured I will be vigilent in keeping an eye on that hose when I bleed brakes the next time. And I also realized that pumping <5psi into the chamber is pretty much as good as 10-15psi ...at least this offers the hope of minimizing the risk should it spring a leak again.
Curious, though: for you "dry method" Motive users, do you monitor how much fluid comes out of the caliper before you unhook the cap and refill? What's your "gauge" of how much fluid to extract in a shot ...I'd be afraid of running the resev dry, and to avoid it I feel like I'd be constantly opening the dang cap = slow job... Please share.
Edward
FWIW, now that I have a fresh tube and good hose clamps (i.e. "proper" clamps, dag nabbit!!!), I think I will continue to use it "wet" for the simple reason that I don't relish the thought of having to unscrew the cap everytime I need to refill the reservoir. I understand why you folks do what you do, but heck, that seems slow (but admittedly a lot faster than having to clean up the trunk! ...lol!). But rest assured I will be vigilent in keeping an eye on that hose when I bleed brakes the next time. And I also realized that pumping <5psi into the chamber is pretty much as good as 10-15psi ...at least this offers the hope of minimizing the risk should it spring a leak again.
Curious, though: for you "dry method" Motive users, do you monitor how much fluid comes out of the caliper before you unhook the cap and refill? What's your "gauge" of how much fluid to extract in a shot ...I'd be afraid of running the resev dry, and to avoid it I feel like I'd be constantly opening the dang cap = slow job... Please share.
Edward
#26
Rennlist Member
I use the Motive as designed and have for years with multiple vehicles and I stand by it as one of the best tools for brakes! All that said, my hose disintegrated in the box many years ago leaving me absolutley puzzled! I replaced it with some trick marine industry hydraulic hose a friend gave me. Grabbed some hose clamps off the work bench and this sucker is now hotrodded to 1500 psi!!!! Now I need some Big Reds to bleed!
#30
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