Notices
993 Forum 1995-1998

Check your Motive Power Bleeder!!!

Old 08-23-2011, 11:53 AM
  #16  
PorscheDoc
Addict
Rennlist Member


Rennlist
Site Sponsor
 
PorscheDoc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Under Your Car
Posts: 8,058
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Seen way too many of these hoses fail, lol. I finally gave mine away, and switched to vacuum air powered bleeding. Much cleaner, much quicker, much easier.
Old 08-23-2011, 12:30 PM
  #17  
ironimages
Three Wheelin'
 
ironimages's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: In the seat..
Posts: 1,424
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Sounds like a mess, Brake fluid is nasty stuff. I do as th others have said just use the bleeder to pressurize the system, in fact mine looks like the day I bought it.
Old 08-23-2011, 12:37 PM
  #18  
axl911
Drifting
 
axl911's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 2,559
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Mine also failed at the crimp after several years of occasional use. Think I'll just use the "dry" method from now on.

BTW, if you are using the dry method, don't let the fluid level fall below 1/2 in the reservoir or you'll intoduce air into the clutch. It's much more of a pain to bleed the clutch.
Old 08-23-2011, 12:48 PM
  #19  
Slow Guy
Race Director
 
Slow Guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: NE Florida
Posts: 10,272
Received 12 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

I use it both ways, depending on the task. If you're bleeding the clutch system do it first when the system is full. Many times the pickup in the res. for the clutch system is very high and will run dry very quickly if not done when the res. is full. My 968 was a big learning experience on that subject.

Also, the bleeder sold by BavAuto.com is far superior to the std. Motive bleeder even though it's made by Motive.

http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp and search for "PB03K"
Old 08-23-2011, 01:41 PM
  #20  
redridge
Nordschleife Master
 
redridge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,446
Received 60 Likes on 47 Posts
Default

Ive used the wet method, but havent had any issues. I will try the dry method next time.... but how do you fully purge a line without purging the reservoir (not the bleeder tank). You have to empty the reservoir in order to purge one line with the Motive bleeder using the dry method. Also, how do you know that you are not introducing air in the brake line manifold..... I know it sucks to have oil spray from a leak, but the beauty of going wet is to have brake fluid in the line all the time minimizing introduction of air. Going the dry method seems more chances of introducing air into the lines..... isnt that the reason they invented the bleeder with a tank, to bleed the lines using the wet method....or is my logic is flawed?
Old 08-23-2011, 03:12 PM
  #21  
dcdude
Drifting
 
dcdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: South Bay, Los Angeles
Posts: 2,733
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by redridge
Ive used the wet method, but havent had any issues. I will try the dry method next time.... but how do you fully purge a line without purging the reservoir (not the bleeder tank). You have to empty the reservoir in order to purge one line with the Motive bleeder using the dry method. Also, how do you know that you are not introducing air in the brake line manifold..... I know it sucks to have oil spray from a leak, but the beauty of going wet is to have brake fluid in the line all the time minimizing introduction of air. Going the dry method seems more chances of introducing air into the lines..... isnt that the reason they invented the bleeder with a tank, to bleed the lines using the wet method....or is my logic is flawed?
I, too, am looking for more details on the "dry" method.

I could see doing one step to push the old stuff out, but I'm not sure how the car's on-board reservoir would have enough capacity to hold sufficient replacement fluid for just one step? A second topping off of the on-board reservoir would introduce air into the system, right? Or only if you let that go dry? I expect the dry method requires more vigilance in monitoring fluid level, but it would also result in using less fluid. Normally I buy 2 liters to pour in the Motiv, but I feel like I only need 1.

Either way, I'm buyin' some proper hose clamps!!!

Last edited by dcdude; 08-24-2011 at 12:38 PM.
Old 08-23-2011, 03:23 PM
  #22  
IXLR8
Rennlist Member
 
IXLR8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Canada & the Alps
Posts: 8,352
Received 644 Likes on 449 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dcdude
I, too, am looking for more details on the "dry" method.
  • top-up the vehicle's hydraulic fluid reservoir.
  • screw the cap from your "empty" Motive Power bleeder onto the vehicle's hydraulic fluid reservoir.
  • pump up the Motive Power to the recommended pressure.
  • bleed the caliper of choice or clutch slave cylinder.
  • keep an eye on the fluid level or have a helper tell you that you are getting low.
  • release the air from the Motive Power bleeder by unscrewing the pump.
  • add more brake fluid to the vehicle's hydraulic fluid reservoir.
  • repeat.

Last edited by IXLR8; 08-23-2011 at 03:43 PM.
Old 08-23-2011, 03:47 PM
  #23  
2Many Cars
Three Wheelin'
 
2Many Cars's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: On the Faultline
Posts: 1,433
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

keep an eye on the fluid level or have a helper tell you that you are getting low.
Exactly. For a full flush I start with the left front caliper so I can watch the resevoir so it doesn't go completely dry. I bleed until the level gets about 80-90% down, refill and bleed again to down 80% and refill. At that point the resevoir basically has all clean fluid. I then bleed at all four wheels as per normal proceedure, starting with the furthest from the MC (usually the right rear for us LHD people.) Bleed each corner until you see clean fluid and check the resevoir periodically to make sure it doesn't run dry. It's a pain to keep checking the resevoir but a whole lot easier and quicker than the cleanup after using the wet method.

Last edited by 2Many Cars; 08-24-2011 at 02:57 PM.
Old 08-23-2011, 04:25 PM
  #24  
Mike J
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
Mike J's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 8,362
Received 66 Likes on 55 Posts
Default

I use my shop compressed air, running through a water seperator and pressure regulator - use about 10psi. Been doing this i started to work on 911's about 19 years ago.

Its not a pain to keep the reservoir full ... And there is lotd of fluid there. Even if you below the pickup for the clutch its not an issue unless you use the clutch ... Just fill it Up again.

Cheers

Mike
Old 08-23-2011, 10:15 PM
  #25  
Edward
Addicted Specialist
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Edward's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: So.CA
Posts: 6,072
Received 297 Likes on 177 Posts
Default

Lol ...truly looks like I am the only schmuck who uses the Motive as it was designed! I feel like a 'tard, yet then again, I was using it as it was intended!

FWIW, now that I have a fresh tube and good hose clamps (i.e. "proper" clamps, dag nabbit!!!), I think I will continue to use it "wet" for the simple reason that I don't relish the thought of having to unscrew the cap everytime I need to refill the reservoir. I understand why you folks do what you do, but heck, that seems slow (but admittedly a lot faster than having to clean up the trunk! ...lol!). But rest assured I will be vigilent in keeping an eye on that hose when I bleed brakes the next time. And I also realized that pumping <5psi into the chamber is pretty much as good as 10-15psi ...at least this offers the hope of minimizing the risk should it spring a leak again.

Curious, though: for you "dry method" Motive users, do you monitor how much fluid comes out of the caliper before you unhook the cap and refill? What's your "gauge" of how much fluid to extract in a shot ...I'd be afraid of running the resev dry, and to avoid it I feel like I'd be constantly opening the dang cap = slow job... Please share.

Edward
Old 08-23-2011, 10:40 PM
  #26  
Michaelc
Rennlist Member
 
Michaelc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Parkland, FL
Posts: 474
Received 13 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

I use the Motive as designed and have for years with multiple vehicles and I stand by it as one of the best tools for brakes! All that said, my hose disintegrated in the box many years ago leaving me absolutley puzzled! I replaced it with some trick marine industry hydraulic hose a friend gave me. Grabbed some hose clamps off the work bench and this sucker is now hotrodded to 1500 psi!!!! Now I need some Big Reds to bleed!
Old 08-24-2011, 01:52 AM
  #27  
911Dave
Rennlist Member
 
911Dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,211
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

Edward, just put a towel or a plastic sheet over it once you pressurize it to start bleeding. That way, if it does break again, it won't spray everywhere.
Old 08-24-2011, 05:34 AM
  #28  
Chuck W.
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
Chuck W.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Agoura Hills (Los Angeles) California
Posts: 5,178
Received 355 Likes on 210 Posts
Default

Would have never considered the dry method. Thanks for starting the thread Edward.
Old 08-24-2011, 05:51 PM
  #29  
David Danhof
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
David Danhof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Last time i used the wet process, I had a similar failure and mess. Dry for me from now on.
Old 08-24-2011, 06:57 PM
  #30  
cgfen
Rennlist Member
 
cgfen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Vista CA
Posts: 7,534
Received 822 Likes on 539 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by FisterD
Yes, along with most everyone here we use it dry as well. To clean it everytime would be a PIA, no doubt.
me too, + just think of all that exercise we get by "constantly pumping" to pressurize the system.

Craig

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Check your Motive Power Bleeder!!!



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 11:18 PM.