axl911

No. Don't attach to C. It should be attached to either A or B. Basically, the valve relies on vacuum (occurs at idle & low throttle) to activate the bypass valve. Basically, when the throttle is shut or low throttle, the engine creates vacuum. The bypass valves senses this vacuum and actuates the bypass. You don't need the supercharger at idle or low throttle.

axl911

Pros: cleaner to environment. creates vacuum in crankcase which is good.
Cons: clogs up the intercooler making it ineffective...and you need the intercooler.

ideally, one of the oil vent line goes before the throttle plate (at the intake boot) and the other after the throttle plate. That's how the factory did it. In TPC case, the only place is to put both in before the throttle which is less than ideal. And it can clog up the intercooler but I've never seen much oil vapor from those lines.

Depending on the car, if you have much oil vapor through blow-by then you need a catch can. I've haven't seen blowby on my car so I use a small filer. But then again, my car had a top end with new rings.

axl911

Oh I see. The MAF network is probably a voltage clamp to deal with the extra air being sucked by the supercharger right?

haygeebaby

Okay - bypass going to "A" then. I will need to get a new "T" connector for the brake booster and tank vent valve.

I spent most of today rolling on the floor getting the chargecooler piping installed. And also burrying my head into the engine bay to sort out the electric wires and getting the air intake sorted.

I have a short list of items to buy tomorrow that will allow me to complete the install. Let's hope we can start the car up on Monday or Tuesday.

haygeebaby

Anthony - back onto this oil breather topic. If I use a filter like the one in the picture below, would I still connect the other oil breather pipe to the intake boot?
Are there any adverse affects using this setup?
Is there a vacuum loss here?

I was reading up on "theothererics" oil catch can he had installed with his Protomotuve turbo - which had adverse affects on his engine. Can something like this happen in a TPC setup with a breather catch can?

If I opt for the breather catch can - do I get one that has two connections so I can connect both oil breather pipes to it?
Is that how the breather catch can works? Or is there another connection that has to be connected to something else?
Thanks in advance.

axl911

I think TPC themselves connects one or both breather lines to the intake boot. But I personally would either connect none or both. Because if only one is connected, the other one creates a big vacuum leak (ie. hole in the intake system).

If I was using a breather can (which I am not currently), I would connect both. I don't have a problem with oil vapor on my car...new rings provides a better seal I guess.

MPB993

Hi guys,

I thought I would share my performance improvement on my tip with the tpc kit. I've now had the kit on for ~10 years and 65k miles. I am also running a/w injection instead of an intercooler. Its been fun.

Cheers Mark.

600RR

Mark: That is VERY cool. There are several post on RL that indicate a Tip couldn't handle the load of a SC or turbo. Clearly you have had no problems. Would love to hear more about your process of conversion and maintenance, if you have time. Thanks for the info.

axl911

Because of Eric problem with his catch can, that is why I avoided it.

BTW, are you planning on adding an afr gauge or anything of that sort? I think an AFR, Exhaust gas temp and intake temp are needed at minimum. The SC can get got quick and you need those gauges to inform you when things are not operating within normal parameter.

haygeebaby

Mark - those are some good numbers. What was the configuration of your car during the test? Got any dyno results? What A/W injection kit are you using? I plan to use a meth kit and the intercooler together. What are you opinions on this?

Anthony - yeah - I think some guages would be wise. But I would prefer not to have any. I prefer the clean look and simplicity. I'll start looking at guages after I get this running. I'm know its going to run hot so I'd rather get the meth kit in first. What guages are you running Anthony? I recall you posted a thread up on this and your solutiuon was pretty impressive.

haygeebaby

Almost there. My back is killing me!

I've managed to get the chargecooler installed and all the pipe work as well. For the oil lines I've decided to put filters on both of them, and I have capped off the hole for one of the oil breather lines that connected to the intake elbow. I've wrapped up all the electric cables and sorted out all the pipe work on the left side of the engine bay as well.

Tomorrow we will put the water pump and water tank in, and connect it to a 12 volt source. Then we have to mount the heat exchange at the front and connect the pipes up.

I think then I can put the new ECU chip in and crank her up and see what happens. If all goes well I'll start the task of putting all the rear end covers and under body covers back on.

Looks like I'll have to cut the underside of the rear spoiler a little so everything fits in and the cover closes. I think I'll do something about the sagging engine bay pad as well. Let's hope we can test this kit out this time tomorrow.

axl911

You're moving fast!!! Need more pictures.

I see that you have decided to just run the two breather lines to a k&n type filter. The oil vent line that goes to the crank is hooked back to the oil tank?

That is a nice piece of kit. TPC mechanicals with protomotive controller. Who offered that or did you have to put it together yourself?

BTW on the gauges end, I used a Zeitronix AFR with their square box display. It is a really nice package that provides all the monitoring & logging and is very reasonably priced. But what I really bought it for was their programmable alarms. You can't look at gauges at full throttle. So I rely on the alarming functionality connected to a LED mounted similar to a shift light. I also monitor cylinder head temperature on 4 cylinders with an aircraft cht system. So far in the 100F heat of Texas, the intercooler kept the air intake to 15 degrees above ambient. The air is then further cooled with TPC's injector spray. I don't have issue with heat. Here is a pic of my cockpit. I also hate a clutterd interior. You can see the Zeitronix at the top of the console. The CHT goes on the bottom half of the console switch. It is a MGL 4 channel CHT with alarming capability.

MPB993

Hi guys,

some config/things I learnt over the years with the kit running in UK temperatures, max about 30C

- 2.6" SC pulley
- 50:50 methanol/distilled water injection pre-supercharger, I have tried progressive injection but saw no improvement. Aquamist basic system a/w source from windscreen bottle (0.7mm injector/mister)
- I kept an eye on detonation, intake temperature and ignition retard to make sure it all was running ok
- before a/w injection I had a small intercooler but with UK temperatures I didnt see as much improvement in the numbers above as with a/w injection.
- the intake temperature was 5-10C higher without a cold intake on the filter, it is worth a cold intake as once the intake goes above 25C normal ecu retard effects the power and efficiency of the engine and isnt good for it. The heads overheat in 25C ambient temperatures. Its amazing how warm the air gets in the engine bay in slow traffic even with the spoiler up. The intake temperature sensor is a slow response device. Most detonation observed after slow traffic without a cold intake.
- I also changed the injectors to maintain a sensible a/f ratio and duty cycle on the injectors.
- I have a LM1 wideband instead of the normal narrow band oxygen sensor
- I have adjusted the 7th injector to make sure the a/f ratio is always lower than 12.6 as the fuel distribution from the 7th injector is not optimal, I didnt want a cylinder running worse than 13:1 The LM1 shows that my right cylinder bank is running slightly leaner than my left cylinder bank
- cat is 100/inch instead of 400/inch as that does limit the top end a bit
- my makes about 320hp at the wheels, others make a bit more with later kits.
- the car is 100lb lighter than standard - seats etc
- its worth changing the belt regularly (i do mine every 7.5k miles)
- no issues oil usage or anything on the SC
- I get better mileage on a run as the intake air temperature is above ambient off boost which seems to improve the engine performance.

Thats about all I can remember right now, hope it helps.

Cheers, Mark.

haygeebaby

That does help Mark. Many thanks.
Cold intake on the filter - that sounds like something I want to add to the system. Can you post some pictures of your cold intake? I take it the cold intake you use was custom made and not off the shelf?

Have you also got any pictures of your meth injection setup? I want to get one in before the Aussie summer hits. Any details of your meth setup would be useful. You are using the Aquamist HFS-2? How does that system get connected to the ECU? Do you have to splice cables? Does the system use boost pressure or the MAF sensor to know when and how much to inject?

Thanks in advance.

haygeebaby

Axl - yeah - oil line to the crank is connected - that's the one that matters.
About your guages - how often do your alarms sound? What's the one that goes off the most?

Here are some more pics for you and the gang. I finished off the chargecooler piping and mounted the heat exchange. The rest of the day was spent putting the exhaust, rear bumper, under car panels, etc. It took ages. I also put the new chip in. We will fire her up tomorrow.