skl2

My car makes a slight grinding noise right after its fires up, it grinds for a bit. It happens about 80% of the time. The other 20% is usually when the car is warm and it fires up with no noise at all. The shop that did my PPI told me about this and said it sounded like the bendix needed to be lubricated.

I have looked up the DIY on replacing the starter...my question is this: is there anything I can do to lubricate this while it is in the car? Could it be a wiring issue that I could check without removing it? Thanks.

UPDATE:
Removed the starter today following the instruction on the p-car workshop for the most part. A lot of times people say "this is a pain in the *** job" and I dont always find that to be the case. This WAS the case for the starter removal however. It is very tedious. I was working from a pit and having your arms up in the air all day just isnt fun. I stopped and took breaks several times to try and stay fresh and focused.

Once the starter was out, I disassembled it and greased the gears using a high temp silcone grease and I cleaned all of the leads. I also thoroughly cleaned the solenoid plunger and cylinder it fits inside. Finally, I cleaned up the main gear that makes contact with the fly wheel and put a few drops of mobile 1 on it for good measure.

Starter went back in the car in a quarter of the time because I knew what I was doing. It is all about getting lucky with the top bold when screwing it back on. You will kind of learn where to point the hex to get it in contact with the bolt. I couldnt get my hands all the way there, so I went by feel and luck. Spun on the second try and I tightened everything down.

Got all the other crap back on you remove to get access to the starter, re connected the battery, held my breath and started the car. NO GRINDING NOISE! I only started it once and drove around for 15 min or so and put it away because I was tired and wanted a shower. Hope this lasts though!!!

Thanks for all your advice Gunter and everyone else who chimed in.

2Many Cars

The bendix gear is part of the starter assembly so I doubt you'll be able to really get at it without removing the starter. You might want to check the starter solenoid as well because if it's sticking on the gear will stay engaged. If that's happening you should be able to hear it as the starter motor will still be running when it's making the grinding noise.

skl2

That way my worry. If it is the solenoid, what is the remedy? Check electrical connections?

skl2

Anymore thoughts on this from the experts? TIA

Gunter

The Solenoid is just a relay that engages the starter gear into the ring gear on the flywheel. Once the gear is engaged, internal contacts energizes the starter cranking the motor. If the mechanism (Plunger) is sticky, not much can be done with the starter in the car. It needs to be serviced/lubed on a bench.

You can clamp the starter in a vice and wire up 12V from a battery to check function, i.e., the Solenoid/Bendix action.

skl2

Gunter, thanks for your input...that is very helpful. Is it safe to say that if I get feeling productive this weekend and decide to remove the starter it is something I can lubricate and have back in the car without much downtime? I assume based on what I have read I can get the starter in and out...I just was curious if lubing/servicing the starter is a DIY thing or would I have to send it out? Haven't found many instructions on serving the starter. Thanks.

skl2

Would this be what I would want if I just gave in and bought one:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...%26+Drivetrain

2Many Cars

That looks right but beware of rebuilt units, especially from discount parts houses as the quality can vary.

As you can see from Gunter's excellent diagram the solenoid binding on release could easily be the problem. Fortunately I found I could easily remove the solenoid from the starter and cleanup the spring/plunger area. Over time the grease around the plunger (and there should be VERY little of it) can harden and bind, especially when it's cold - which would be why you get less grinding on hot restarts. It's all pretty simple mechanically so I think once the motor's out it will be pretty straightforward. It should also be possible to replace just the solenoid - which is what I did when I had this problem. If you stick with your current starter motor it's worth checking there is still some meat on the brushes too while you're in there.

levtron

If you are even "thinking" of removing the starter... do your self a favor and just replace it. I just did it last week. It took about 3 hours, and I had help with some of the intricate pieces (the removing of the top bolt).

I followed this exactly, and even placed the towel on the break line... still had some nice scratches, but not as dirty...

http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...er_Replacement

skl

Looks like my son won't be getting in any other trouble this weekend if he tackles this, especially since I won't be around this weekend to help him...

Gunter

Disconnect the battery before removing the starter!

When securely clamped in a vice, one can clean and lube some of the pivot points etc.

Depending on how you wire 12V, you can either just energize the Solenoid or the whole starter. I'd energize the Solenoid so the plunger moves. Then I'd try a good shot of real penetrating oil (Not WD-40!) on the plunger. Move it in and out a few times. Then I'd put a little engine oil on the plunger and again exercise it.
I'd oil whatever pivot points can be reached, like around the gear shaft, over-run clutch and mechanism.

As for replacement, a lot depends on condition of the old starter and how many miles are on it. It's your decision. I'd observe the action of the starter to see if it works alright in the vice.

When wired up, you'll get startled by the racket it makes when energized. It's normal but make sure it is really clamped securely.

Starters don't fail that often. I have a Volvo with 300k Km and original Bosch Starter and my 911 has 200k Miles on it with original starter serviced once per the above.

When reinstalling, use some dielectric grease or Vaseline on the connection posts.

skl2

Starter service complete! see first post for details.

skl

good work Son- now you can help put the center delete pipe on the GT3...

skl2

That will be much more fun I'm sure.