Momo Horn beep beep
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Pro
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 585
Likes: 10
From: West Richland, WA
Momo Horn beep beep
As Eric in Chicago said:
Standard disclaimer apply, Your results may not be the same as mine if you screw something up, I am not a professional modifier nor do I know what I am doing most of the time. So try this at your own risk. If your going to do this to a street car, be aware, this may have a negative impact on your ability to collect on a claim should you be involved in an accident as our cars are stock with airbags. (my 2 cents) I provide the below as a description of what I have done, not as an instruction; it's possible I did something wrong.
References:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...highlight=momo
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...pressions.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-long-dyi.html
Ok, now that that is out of the way I thought I'd contribute based on my experience with the dreaded momo horn button install. It's not too bad once you get it worked out; but for some reason the above references lacked in their pictures or the description of two key components the horn wiring and the airbag resistor.
I'm not going to cover how I took everything apart, I feel that's fairly well covered in the posts above. One thing I'd like to add however is removing the lower dash is going to made it easier to take out the clock spring wires and not have to cut anything. I already had the Rennline lower dash but imho it's well worth the effort.
Prior to taking everything apart I made a few resistors (extra to make sure I had more if I messed up). I bought 0.062 male molex connectors and 3.0ohm 1/4W resistors from Mouser Electronics. I soldered 18gauge wire (as specified by the molex connectors specs) to the resistors, then crimped the molex connectors to the ends like so:
I then used heat shrink tubing (picked up at the home depot) and wrapped what I had created. Finally I bent the wire to make sure the two connectors would fit into the airbag plug (where the wires from the clock spring had plugged into). My airbag connector had a blue dot on it, not sure if that's the norm but the wires running into it were green and something else. The horn also goes to a orange connector but the wires are brown and brown with a white stripe. Finished resistor, not too sexy but it worked:
Next the horn gave me more grief that I would have imagined. What you need for this is a wire long enough to go from the orange connector that the old horn was plugged into to the back of the steering wheel base. Behind the base I found a black connector that I unplugged.
When I opened up the housing I found a bunch of wires that help power the items on the stalk.
Unfortunately I didn't have the type of wire connectors that are in the housing, so what I did was took off the insulation of a 14/16 butt connector and made sure it fit the pin on the back of the horn contact. I then hooked the wire to it and ran the wire into the black housing.
I closed it up and put it all back together:
I ran the wire from the housing through the hole in the dash where the rest were and connected it to the orange connector on the brown wire with the white stripe side using a male molex connector.
I also made another ground wire to test with using a molex connector. Turns out I didn't need the ground as supplied by the orange connector. However, I did use it to check current. Using a voltmeter I put positive to the horn contact and negative to the ground from the orange contact. With the ignition on I had power.
Then I put the hub on. It took a bit of fiddling but I got the horn contact to touch the back of the hub. The black wire that is part of the hub supplies the power to the horn. I verified the black wire + ground from the orange connector gave me a reading. I hooked the black wire to one contact on the horn button, then used the supplied green and yellow wire to make a connection between the other horn contact and the metal ring supplied by Momo.
When I placed the ring on the hub with the ignition on, I heard the glorious sound of my horn... at 10:30 PM with the family sleeping... I'm told I can stop sleeping on the couch soon with good behavior
Standard disclaimer apply, Your results may not be the same as mine if you screw something up, I am not a professional modifier nor do I know what I am doing most of the time. So try this at your own risk. If your going to do this to a street car, be aware, this may have a negative impact on your ability to collect on a claim should you be involved in an accident as our cars are stock with airbags. (my 2 cents) I provide the below as a description of what I have done, not as an instruction; it's possible I did something wrong.
References:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...highlight=momo
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...pressions.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-long-dyi.html
Ok, now that that is out of the way I thought I'd contribute based on my experience with the dreaded momo horn button install. It's not too bad once you get it worked out; but for some reason the above references lacked in their pictures or the description of two key components the horn wiring and the airbag resistor.
I'm not going to cover how I took everything apart, I feel that's fairly well covered in the posts above. One thing I'd like to add however is removing the lower dash is going to made it easier to take out the clock spring wires and not have to cut anything. I already had the Rennline lower dash but imho it's well worth the effort.
Prior to taking everything apart I made a few resistors (extra to make sure I had more if I messed up). I bought 0.062 male molex connectors and 3.0ohm 1/4W resistors from Mouser Electronics. I soldered 18gauge wire (as specified by the molex connectors specs) to the resistors, then crimped the molex connectors to the ends like so:
I then used heat shrink tubing (picked up at the home depot) and wrapped what I had created. Finally I bent the wire to make sure the two connectors would fit into the airbag plug (where the wires from the clock spring had plugged into). My airbag connector had a blue dot on it, not sure if that's the norm but the wires running into it were green and something else. The horn also goes to a orange connector but the wires are brown and brown with a white stripe. Finished resistor, not too sexy but it worked:
Next the horn gave me more grief that I would have imagined. What you need for this is a wire long enough to go from the orange connector that the old horn was plugged into to the back of the steering wheel base. Behind the base I found a black connector that I unplugged.
When I opened up the housing I found a bunch of wires that help power the items on the stalk.
Unfortunately I didn't have the type of wire connectors that are in the housing, so what I did was took off the insulation of a 14/16 butt connector and made sure it fit the pin on the back of the horn contact. I then hooked the wire to it and ran the wire into the black housing.
I closed it up and put it all back together:
I ran the wire from the housing through the hole in the dash where the rest were and connected it to the orange connector on the brown wire with the white stripe side using a male molex connector.
I also made another ground wire to test with using a molex connector. Turns out I didn't need the ground as supplied by the orange connector. However, I did use it to check current. Using a voltmeter I put positive to the horn contact and negative to the ground from the orange contact. With the ignition on I had power.
Then I put the hub on. It took a bit of fiddling but I got the horn contact to touch the back of the hub. The black wire that is part of the hub supplies the power to the horn. I verified the black wire + ground from the orange connector gave me a reading. I hooked the black wire to one contact on the horn button, then used the supplied green and yellow wire to make a connection between the other horn contact and the metal ring supplied by Momo.
When I placed the ring on the hub with the ignition on, I heard the glorious sound of my horn... at 10:30 PM with the family sleeping... I'm told I can stop sleeping on the couch soon with good behavior
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 257
Likes: 2
From: Crofton, MD
Thanks Dan for doing this. Makes a lot of it much easier to understand with the pictures. I have the same resistors (3.0 ohm 1/4 watt) in hand. Any issues so far with airbag light? I tried contacting Airbagonoff but apparently they dont sell them to the general public anymore-only to certified installers.
Looks like a lot of work and patience is needed for the Momo install. Great and helpful post.
Looks like a lot of work and patience is needed for the Momo install. Great and helpful post.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 585
Likes: 10
From: West Richland, WA
Update: Everything was working fine until earlier this month. I was at an autocross in about 90 degree weather (hotter in the car). Second to last run of the day my airbag light came on. From what I can tell the electrical tape I used warmed up and the resister became loose. I'll find a way to get it reset and try again.
