Resident Sicko

(yes, again)
I know there are a lot of really good threads on this but for some reason I am just unable to understand the directions. (terminology or my ignorance to blame)
I have the airbag bypass.
I have the horn part that inserts into the steering column to complete a connection to the adapter.
I have the RS MoMo steering wheel
I have the MoMo 7004 Hub Adapter
-And the car....got that too.

What I dont have is a clue on what gets cut or bypassed. After reading all the threads on this, am I to believe the airbag plug is to remain tucked in the dash? (Bridged in the center console, apparently)

Can anyone give me a hand? In "special" terms, tell me what goes to where?
(Example: "E to G", F to H".)
Thanks a TON!


Link to image to zoom in:
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...aTorin/hub.jpg

Resident Sicko

47 views and no input yet.
Bummer.

asofine

Wish I could help!

sawitt

I just installed a Momo steering wheel over Christmas. The information I used was contained in two threads that were very helpful. https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...pressions.html and https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-long-dyi.html. If I remember correctly, the red connector (wires C and D in you picture) is for the airbag and the orange connector (wires A and B) is for the horn.

The airbag sensor replacement plugs into the red connector. I made my own airbag sensor by using the mating female red connector that normally goes to the airbag in the steering wheel. I cut this off and soldered a 3 ohm resistor to the two wires in this connector. This connector is then plugged back in to the red connector in your picture (wires C and D). It doesn't matter which wire (C or D) goes where as the airbag bypass is a simple resistive element that doesn't have any electrical polarity. After plugging the airbag sensor connector back together, this can be tucked back into the dash pretty much anywhere the wires reach.

To get the horn working you need the Porsche part # 964 652 104 00 (horn contact or something like that) as mentioned (and pictured) in the aforementioned threads. This completes the connection from the horn button through the Momo steering wheel hub to the horn. The horn contact has a copper connector that sticks into the hole when it gets installed. A wire from this contact is run to either wire A or B I can't tell which from your picture. I went to an electronics store and bought a female connecter that fit the male connecter from the L shaped horn contact. I soldered a wire to this female connector and ran that to the wire in the orange connector. One of the threads says it is the brown/white wire but it should be the wire with a positive voltage on it which you can measure with a voltmeter. The other wire in that connector must be connected to chassis ground. I had a difficult time finding a good ground up by the steering column so I ran a longer wire down behind the dash to the the center console where it was easier to get a good ground connection. But it doesn't matter, you just need to connect this wire to ground.

The horn button contacts can be connected to either wire from the Momo steering wheel hub (wire E and F). Wire F connects to a copper contact ring on the bottom of the Momo hub to the L shaped horn contact part that must be added. Wire E connects to chassis ground through the Momo hub to the steering column to ground. You can connect either of these wires to either connector on the horn button. The horn button is just a simple switch and doesn't have any electrical polarity.

Hope this is clear. Good luck with the installation!

Viperbob1

What he said. The horn contact is probably not what u are expecting. Literally sticks in a hole on the stack there on the right side. It works though..

Resident Sicko

Thank you for the help! I will give it another go.

Bill Verburg

Do you have the non airbag steering column shrouds?

mcipseric

PM Sent. I just did this a few months back and it is really fresh in my head.

logan2z

Getting the bottom one with an opening for the cruise control stalk is going to be tough. It's been NLA for a while

brucec59

Where did you get that cool intestinal GPS?

Resident Sicko

In the way to Chimney rock..right off the Blue Ridge Parkway. I made someone motion sick in the car on this trip...

Okay back on topic,

The red connector has 1 x brown, 1 x brown/white wire

Orange connector has 1 x green/blue, 1 x green/red

Instinct is telling me the BROWN is horn, and GREEN is airbag but not as I have been advised. Can anyone confirm?

Also of note, the airbag bypass part I picked up from another post (p/n 964.612.220.00) is nothing more than a double male ended wire looped inside a big black connector. Isn't this where the "3 ohm resistor" should be?

Resident Sicko

Okay. Thanks to all those who have helped. Eric, it was good chatting with you.

Horn: sounds when ignition is turned on. Pulled one wire from the horn botton, pulled the other, swapped and still horn sounds when ignition is on.

Followed directions, grounded green/blue wire to chassis, connected green/red to horn contact (P/N 964 652 104 00). Could I have them reversed?

Airbag disable: I could not locate a 3 ohm 1/4 watt resistor, so ended up using 3 x 10 ohm soldered side by side. (in-line would have produced 30 ohm, so I am told. Calculations produce 2.8 ohm...
basically "looped" the brown wire to the brown/white with resistors in between.

So please someone explain how I have screwed this up.

sawitt

Horn Problem: You must, somehow, have a connection between the two horn wires. This is what the switch in the horn button does to activate the horn. Does the horn sound if you disconnect both wires from the horn button? If you have a volt meter check the voltages of the two wires in the horn connector (without either wire being connected to the horn). One of them should have a positive voltage on it (with respect to chassis ground). If you ground this wire, then you are completing the horn circuit and the horn will sound constantly. So, you must ground the other wire (with no voltage reading).

Airbag disable: With the three 10 ohm resistors in parallel you've created an effective resistance of 3.3 ohms. The actual resistance that you might measure with an ohm-meter is probably a little different as each of the resistors is probably not exactly 10 ohms. This is fine I believe. When I was reading threads on how people were solving this problem I saw that they used anything from 2.7 ohms to 3.3 ohms or so. I doubt that it is too critical. I believe if this resistance isn't right you'll get an airbag warning light, so I think you've got this part of it solved.

Resident Sicko

Yes, horn sounds when ignition is turned on with both wires disconnected from the horn button.

I removed the steering wheel and metal ring with male lead from assy, horn still sounds. disconnected "ground" horn still sounds. Plugged in wire from adapter to each of the male ends on horn button, with and without ground connected and horn still sounds.

Q: Could the "Porsche Drive Block" be a lending factor?
Q: Must the battery terminal to the post be tightened, or just enough to power the car?
Q: Could I have the OE wires mixed up? Red connector/brown wires vs Orange connector/green wires?

I don't have a voltage meter. Maybe that is the next step unless something turns up as a solution.

sawitt

Remove any wires you have installed from the orange connector (wires A and B in you picture). The horn should not sound when you turn on the ignition. Then connect the ground wire that you are installing to one of the wires in that connector. Turn on the ignition -- if the horn sounds then you must connect the ground wire to the other wire in the connector. With the ground wire connected to the proper wire in the orange connector then the horn should not sound when you turn on the ignition. Then, connect the other wire in the orange connector to the wire that you've run from the L shaped horn slip ring part. Now with the ignition on, and the wires in the steering hub connected to the horn button, pressing the horn button should sound the horn.

You can do a quick little test of the horn by taking a short little jumper wire and connecting the two wires together in the orange connector. With ignition on, when connected, the horn should sound. With ignition on, when not connected, the horn should not sound.

1. I don't think the drive block has any impact on this at all.

2. I'm not sure what battery terminal you mean. In general all the electrical connections should be good and tight. If you mean the 12 volt starter battery then the connectors must be clean and tight.

3. I don't think you have the connectors mixed up. I remember the red connector being the airbag sensor connector and the orange connector being the horn connector. Run the little test I mentioned above and you should be able to manually sound the horn. This doesn't involve the steering wheel at all, and should identify which of the connectors is the horn connector. It also gives you some confidence that the horn is working ok and you just need to connect the wires up correctly.