Negative camber
#16
Rennlist Member
By "adjustable sway bars" I'm referring to either TRG sway bars or RS sway bars that have 3 or 5 holes so that you can select a position for the link. So for track days, stiffen the bars up by moving to the inner holes, then soften the bars for city driving.
Yeah, good luck with that! Go buy a $300 Longacre camber/caster gauge and indeed you can dial in more camber in like 5 minutes. But oops, now you have to completely realign the car. So that's not really practical unless you don't mind re-aligning before & after every event. I guess you can experiment -- maybe the toe won't change too badly over your range of interest. But handling is very sensitive to toe, so you'd have to experiment on an alignment rack (or create a string setup like I've done) to figure it out.
#17
Race Car
Thread Starter
Thanks, That sounds like a good setup for me. I don't want to go any lower, and i'm pretty happy with the ride. I would just like to be able to find more grip at the track. Sebring is a pretty rough track... So maybe go with RS bushes and sways, a strut brace, and some R compounds?
#18
I think I was getting close to 2 degrees at 10mm above RS ride height. I now have Rennline camber plates and monoballs and I am at RS height (maybe a touch below) with 2.5 front and 2 degrees rear. My comment for street driving with this kind of alignment is watch out in the rain. I use Dunlop Direzza's on the street but they feel like slicks in the rain.
Oh boy, the car felt like it had lost a rear control arm! I was totally freaked out in the rain. My tires are old tires since it came with the wheels. I am waiting for my Sumi's HTZIII to arrive.
It never felt this way in the dry. So the rain and my old tires are the possible reason for the way it handled today. To be safe I will have my alignment checked again today.
#20
Addicted Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I've gone the "dual-purpose" route ...lots of compromises on either end, to be sure; you've got to weigh which end of the spectrum has more importance for you.
FWIW, when I was tracking my 993, I ended up settling with around -1.2F/-1.7R camber and found this to be a superb compromise for TimeTrial and DD commuting. This camber (along with PSS9s and 22mm/21mm sways --OEM porsche not adjustable, ride height lower than Euro but a tad higher than RS, and R-comps) offered superb balance and total neutral handling on the track, good stick and great feel, sharp/crisp turn-in, and no ill bumpsteer bugaboos. And was completely comfy/stable commuting, even in rain. Weigh how much you're actually on the street vs track and choose accordingly. But going too far and making the car twichy on the street is not only not fun, but potentially less safe.
Edward
FWIW, when I was tracking my 993, I ended up settling with around -1.2F/-1.7R camber and found this to be a superb compromise for TimeTrial and DD commuting. This camber (along with PSS9s and 22mm/21mm sways --OEM porsche not adjustable, ride height lower than Euro but a tad higher than RS, and R-comps) offered superb balance and total neutral handling on the track, good stick and great feel, sharp/crisp turn-in, and no ill bumpsteer bugaboos. And was completely comfy/stable commuting, even in rain. Weigh how much you're actually on the street vs track and choose accordingly. But going too far and making the car twichy on the street is not only not fun, but potentially less safe.
Edward
#21
Three Wheelin'
From everything I have been told and read, the rear camber is supposed to be .5 less cambered that the front. i.e. if the front is -2.5, then the rear is supposed to to -2.0
#22
Addicted Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Edward
#23
Resurecting this thread...
After reading this i think i have the opposite situation...after just doing an alignment my mech cannot get me LESS negative camber than around -2 all around? i have RS height +5mm 285/35 in rear and 235/40 front. I wanted -1.5 in front and -2 in rear. I have -2.3 inn rear. Said because of my height he cannot get me less negative camber?
After reading this i think i have the opposite situation...after just doing an alignment my mech cannot get me LESS negative camber than around -2 all around? i have RS height +5mm 285/35 in rear and 235/40 front. I wanted -1.5 in front and -2 in rear. I have -2.3 inn rear. Said because of my height he cannot get me less negative camber?