TheOtherEric

No. Adjustable drop links don't give any huge performance benefit, and many people don't even bother using them. (I have them in the rear, but I usually have run RS non-adjustable links). They simply remove any preloading of the sway bar in case one side varies to the other. I've never seen any preloading so haven't felt any need for them, but granted they'd be nice to have when needed.

By "adjustable sway bars" I'm referring to either TRG sway bars or RS sway bars that have 3 or 5 holes so that you can select a position for the link. So for track days, stiffen the bars up by moving to the inner holes, then soften the bars for city driving.

Yeah, good luck with that! Go buy a $300 Longacre camber/caster gauge and indeed you can dial in more camber in like 5 minutes. But oops, now you have to completely realign the car. So that's not really practical unless you don't mind re-aligning before & after every event. I guess you can experiment -- maybe the toe won't change too badly over your range of interest. But handling is very sensitive to toe, so you'd have to experiment on an alignment rack (or create a string setup like I've done) to figure it out.

Falcondrivr

Thanks, That sounds like a good setup for me. I don't want to go any lower, and i'm pretty happy with the ride. I would just like to be able to find more grip at the track. Sebring is a pretty rough track... So maybe go with RS bushes and sways, a strut brace, and some R compounds?

camlob

I just searched "bump steer" and found this thread. I had my alignment done yest and took out the car today in the rain. My negative camber is 1.5 on all 4 corners. My rear alignment went out of alignment when I noticed so much black rubber dust on my last track day. It had too much toe-in.

Oh boy, the car felt like it had lost a rear control arm! I was totally freaked out in the rain. My tires are old tires since it came with the wheels. I am waiting for my Sumi's HTZIII to arrive.

It never felt this way in the dry. So the rain and my old tires are the possible reason for the way it handled today. To be safe I will have my alignment checked again today.

mcipseric

i can only get -1.5 in the front with KW v3s and rs sways. What can I do to to get -2.5 in the front? THANKS!

Edward

I've gone the "dual-purpose" route ...lots of compromises on either end, to be sure; you've got to weigh which end of the spectrum has more importance for you.

FWIW, when I was tracking my 993, I ended up settling with around -1.2F/-1.7R camber and found this to be a superb compromise for TimeTrial and DD commuting. This camber (along with PSS9s and 22mm/21mm sways --OEM porsche not adjustable, ride height lower than Euro but a tad higher than RS, and R-comps) offered superb balance and total neutral handling on the track, good stick and great feel, sharp/crisp turn-in, and no ill bumpsteer bugaboos. And was completely comfy/stable commuting, even in rain. Weigh how much you're actually on the street vs track and choose accordingly. But going too far and making the car twichy on the street is not only not fun, but potentially less safe.

Edward

mcipseric

From everything I have been told and read, the rear camber is supposed to be .5 less cambered that the front. i.e. if the front is -2.5, then the rear is supposed to to -2.0

Edward

Dunno what to tell ya: mine is dead neutral with very crisp turn in. It can easily be coaxed into oversteer or understeer depending on driver input. But remember the entire suspension functions together as a "system." So with my 21mm rear sway, this does much to balance out the handling. Though it was long ago, I definitely recall having the stock M030 20mm rear sway and getting the car to rotate took more work. The 21mm rear bar was the direct ticket. Together with the PSS9s and camber, the turn-in is sharp and direct while high-speed cornering stability is also rock solid (just noticed you're in OC ...my 993 was both very agile at the tight Streets of Willow, while rock solid at WSIR's fast t2, t8, and t9).

Edward

targagr

Resurecting this thread...

After reading this i think i have the opposite situation...after just doing an alignment my mech cannot get me LESS negative camber than around -2 all around? i have RS height +5mm 285/35 in rear and 235/40 front. I wanted -1.5 in front and -2 in rear. I have -2.3 inn rear. Said because of my height he cannot get me less negative camber?