Falcondrivr

How much negative camber can one get on a stock 993 without adjustable camber plates?
If upgrading, would you go with monoballs of adjustable camber plates for a daily driver that does DE also?

ppressle

about 1.8 or 1.9 deg at rs ride height for me.

chaoscreature

Check your tire temps and tire roll-over before going too crazy with the camber.
I run street compounds (Sumit ZIII's) at the track and am pretty happy with 1.25 deg front/1.50 deg rear negative camber. I am still playing around but I have fairly even temps across the tire with that.
I have monoballs and camber plates and while I don't drive my car EVERY day it's definitely a driver (12k miles last year). The only reason I have them is they came with the JIC's.
Someone I AX with has -2.25 deg at RS+ ride height without camber plates so I would max out my stock adjustments, see where I was at and make a decision from there.

Paul902

I'm at -1.8 deg at RS-5mm. Not maxed out yet.

certz

I think I was getting close to 2 degrees at 10mm above RS ride height. I now have Rennline camber plates and monoballs and I am at RS height (maybe a touch below) with 2.5 front and 2 degrees rear. My comment for street driving with this kind of alignment is watch out in the rain. I use Dunlop Direzza's on the street but they feel like slicks in the rain.

Kein_Ersatz

Interesting, just went with PSS10, lower ride height, and DE aggressive alignment. When I went out on a damp (morning dew) "B" road near my house for the first time I noticed a twitch in the rear end (and a hollow thump sound) under cruising speed when I hit those repair tar lines they use to fill cracks in paved country roads.

At first I feared something came lose, but on dry pavement no issues. Visual inspection for lose / broken parts turned up nothing and multiple dry road runs later, all is fine. I suspected the damp road had something to do with it and your comment reaffirms my suspicion. I was running my DE wheels with A048s at the time which have modest tread pattern. I'll have to rethink thier use on wet DE days.

Hope this is not a problem with my street Toyo T1Rs that I would use in the wet normally (if I had to go out in the wet).

trophy

A048's, Aggressive camber and wet roads = very twitchy.....

The A048's also have an extremely stiff sidewall that will transmit all manner of noise... you will feel and hear every bump.

race911

Since the above comments have described the Yoko A048, I have to ask why anyone would run them given what else is out there? I mean, the A001R was a Godsend in 1983 when it was the first R compound to hit the market. But I've not used any of their R compounds for about 20 years.

Kein_Ersatz

Ken, well lots of viewpoints on what would be a good first R compound DE tire for me to try out as a next step on my DE journey. I asked lots of folks I have meet as DE instructors, my local wrench, and did lots of reading on the RL forums. All sorts of factors came into play, price, size availability (given shortages from Japan now), longevity, winter storage, possibly use to and from DE on the street, etc. Was not looking for the ultimate R compound tire, just my first DE set. 20 year old tech on a 15 year old car may actually work out okay as a first step

I guess I have more to look forward too once this set is used up.

I guess this is the first I am hearing that A048's are old tech.

Have always read with interest your input to the forums.

Falcondrivr

Thanks for the replies.
I'm asking because I'm looking at some suspension upgrades for my DD. I want it to be a good DE car, but don't want to ruin it for daily use.
I took an instructor out for a run last weekend and he basically said that I'm driving at or very near the limit of my equipment. He suggested I maybe get some R compound tires.
However, my car just rolled over 152,000 miles (on the track at Sebring Saturday,) and I'm reticent about putting tires on that will generate more forces on the suspension without "freshening" it up a bit. So I'm looking at bushings, camber plates, monoballs, drop links, strut brace, etc...
I already have the M030 springs and Bilstein HDs, but stayed with the M033 sway bars.
Who's got some good experiences with a nice track/DD setup?

flatsixforme

-2.5 in the front and not even at RS ride height...a little higher...this is MAXED OUT
-2.8 in the rear which is also MAXED OUT

trophy

Rick, the PSS10's or the KW Variant 3's are a good compromise Street / Track setup, they can be dialed back soft enough to give a firm but enjoyable ride on the road and then stiffened up for the track.

My preference would be towards the KW's as they are adjustable for both compression and rebound, giving you much better control over the shock.

TheOtherEric

Like I said in the other thread, I would stick with around -2 deg camber for a dual-purpose car, which means you don't need to bother with camber plates.

Here's the funny thing about lowering a 993 to RS ride height: your camber curves go all to hell and you get crazy amounts of bump steer (which makes you slower on track and is really annoying in street driving). That is, unless you spend $2k on the RS/GT2 spindles with bump steer kits.

IMHO, for a dual purpose car, the best setup is -2 deg camber, around euro ride height, and adjustable sway bars (stiffen for track, soften for street). On track, that should be as fast as a car with -2.7 deg camber and RS ride height (BTDT!) but will be far better on streets.

Falcondrivr

By adjustable sways, do you mean adjustable drop links like the Tarret engineering ones that adjust the pre-load on the bars? or is there another way to get adjustable sways?

I need new drop links and was going to go that way. A buddy thinks I might do with the adjustable camber plates to dial in lots of negative camber for track days. However, based on this thread, I'm not sure I need more than -2.

My car is between RS and ROW height, closer to RS probably.

certz

I believe what theothereric means is getting either RS sways bar (pricey) or TRG sway bars (not quite so pricey) which have holes drilled in the ends of the sway bars for adjusting stiffness. If you get new drop links, get the RS rears - this way if you ever get adjustable sway bars you will be able to use all the holes.

Also, like theothereric said, if you go lower you will have issues with lots of bumpsteer. I put on the RS uprights and ERP tie-rods and wow what a difference, but it is pricey.

I like Trophy's suggestion of the KW's. I have never used them but everything I have heard suggests they are very good and better than the PSS10's. I have moton's which you do not want to do if you intend to maintain any kind of daily driving.