Oil Change
#16
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Great bike with choice components, but the engineers at KTM obviously don't ride them anywhere. I couldn't see myself sitting on that oak plank for any normal touring day. Plus the range isn't all that great. I was looking at the 640 Adventure some years ago.
#17
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I honestly didn't think it was tooo bad, and that includes draining the turbo sumps.
It ain't a small block chevy, but after a few times, its not a biggie.
It ain't a small block chevy, but after a few times, its not a biggie.
#18
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The biggest annoyance for me is getting the placement of the lift arm correct back by the oil thermostat so oil doesn't hit it and splatter all over. I had it down pretty well with the Bend-Pak lift but I just changed to a MaxJax and Mike and I changed the oil on his car a couple of weeks ago and I've never spilled as much oil as I did that time. The lift arms on the Bend-Pak come out from the center, the arms on the MaxJax go in from the outside. I'll do better next time.
#19
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Yeah, first time (hmmm...that was over a decade ago) was a bit long, now it can be as short as 1/2 hour if I do both filters. Helps to have a lift, but its not that bad. As was pointed out, there are a lot of procedures which are much worse....and require two elbows.
I have not followed Adrians procedure, I do it my own way. A few shortcuts - you do not have to remove the right rear wheel with the right tools, and the rocker cover can be unscrewed/unbolted and peeled back enough to get at the filter.
Lately, I have been adding some time to each car I do since we go through a oil level calibration procedure, which involves taking that right rear tire off, the fender liner, and taking the guage out of the tank...gotta add at least 15 minutes to the procedure.
Of course, my oil change times often go longer because of all the BS being slung through the shop.
Cheers,
Mike
I have not followed Adrians procedure, I do it my own way. A few shortcuts - you do not have to remove the right rear wheel with the right tools, and the rocker cover can be unscrewed/unbolted and peeled back enough to get at the filter.
Lately, I have been adding some time to each car I do since we go through a oil level calibration procedure, which involves taking that right rear tire off, the fender liner, and taking the guage out of the tank...gotta add at least 15 minutes to the procedure.
Of course, my oil change times often go longer because of all the BS being slung through the shop.
Cheers,
Mike
#20
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The biggest annoyance for me is getting the placement of the lift arm correct back by the oil thermostat so oil doesn't hit it and splatter all over. I had it down pretty well with the Bend-Pak lift but I just changed to a MaxJax and Mike and I changed the oil on his car a couple of weeks ago and I've never spilled as much oil as I did that time. The lift arms on the Bend-Pak come out from the center, the arms on the MaxJax go in from the outside. I'll do better next time.
Cheers,
MIke
#21
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Lately, I have been adding some time to each car I do since we go through a oil level calibration procedure, which involves taking that right rear tire off, the fender liner, and taking the guage out of the tank...gotta add at least 15 minutes to the procedure.
Cheers,
Mike
Cheers,
Mike
Thanks.
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#22
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pretty simple.
You fill the car up with oil to whatever point you want (most NA guys shoot for halfway full at most), and then take the I wanna say 4 bolts out to remove the oil gauge sender and then bend the float arm so that the gauge on the dash matches the dipstick.
You fill the car up with oil to whatever point you want (most NA guys shoot for halfway full at most), and then take the I wanna say 4 bolts out to remove the oil gauge sender and then bend the float arm so that the gauge on the dash matches the dipstick.
#23
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pretty simple.
You fill the car up with oil to whatever point you want (most NA guys shoot for halfway full at most), and then take the I wanna say 4 bolts out to remove the oil gauge sender and then bend the float arm so that the gauge on the dash matches the dipstick.
You fill the car up with oil to whatever point you want (most NA guys shoot for halfway full at most), and then take the I wanna say 4 bolts out to remove the oil gauge sender and then bend the float arm so that the gauge on the dash matches the dipstick.
#26
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The biggest annoyance for me is getting the placement of the lift arm correct back by the oil thermostat so oil doesn't hit it and splatter all over. I had it down pretty well with the Bend-Pak lift but I just changed to a MaxJax and Mike and I changed the oil on his car a couple of weeks ago and I've never spilled as much oil as I did that time. The lift arms on the Bend-Pak come out from the center, the arms on the MaxJax go in from the outside. I'll do better next time.
We have our own method to avoid dribbling loil all ovr the lift arm but this looks like it will be much better since it is moldable.
http://www.formafunnel.com/
#27
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There is a product called form-a-funnel that seems to be just the ticket for lift use. We haven't tried it yet but I keep meaning to pick one up. Haven't seen it locally, guess we'll need to order it online.
We have our own method to avoid dribbling loil all ovr the lift arm but this looks like it will be much better since it is moldable.
http://www.formafunnel.com/
We have our own method to avoid dribbling loil all ovr the lift arm but this looks like it will be much better since it is moldable.
http://www.formafunnel.com/
#28
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IIRC there is a thread describing it already. I think VinceR77 posted a pic or 2 of the oil level sending unit out of the tank. Really simple but I think you want to do it with the tank empty. Not positive but if the tank is full you'll make a mess when you that that cover off.
#30
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yeah, Im not handy at all, never been. Its unfathomable for me to perform an oil change, I'll gladly pay the money and focus my time on my work. I know how to put gas, check tire pressure and drive it like a pro. I'll let the experts handle the rest. Im fortunate to live near a fabulous independent Porsche shop too.