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Hi kms0521,
yes they are.
To take them out you have to lift the black cover upward.
It's difficult,but possible or you could push just a little-bit with a needle the inner of the black round clip just at the top of the cover and then remove the cover that will easily lift-it
Be carefull not to push too much the center cap,otherwise it will fall inside the fairing.
hope this helps
cheers
Just for the records. I had the same happening to me yesterday on the racetrack. Before you even start to look at the electrical part, check your alternator belt. It broke and caused the issue. I was able to get some crappy belts from the Autozone to get me moving again because the fan belt started to roll ... The lights came off immediately after the replacement. I was fortunate that another driver had the tool for the alternator shaft (10 mm 12 point) because it was missing in my toolbox. My learning is to put this tool plus a 24mm wrench the hex key for the 3 bolts and a spare and alternator belt in my car. You can always cut the AC belt for quick replacement of the 2 vital belts when you are on the road.
Just for the records. I had the same happening to me yesterday on the racetrack. Before you even start to look at the electrical part, check your alternator belt. It broke and caused the issue. I was able to get some crappy belts from the Autozone to get me moving again because the fan belt started to roll ... The lights came off immediately after the replacement. I was fortunate that another driver had the tool for the alternator shaft (10 mm 12 point) because it was missing in my toolbox. My learning is to put this tool plus a 24mm wrench the hex key for the 3 bolts and a spare and alternator belt in my car. You can always cut the AC belt for quick replacement of the 2 vital belts when you are on the road.
Mine was the belt. Thank you for the tip. Much cheaper than four speed sensors.
OK, I surrender, I cannot work out the trick to remove this cover.
Will someone give me more clues. I've looked at the post that mentions a needle but can't see where I'd push it.
ABS/ABD relay cover
Thanks
I'm about an hour into a search for exactly what marke993 was looking for.....6 years ago... I keep scrolling excited about a successful search... hoping to read an easy "how to"..... Nope..... Maybe I'll ping him if he figured it out? Whoops, that was his last post...
I'm getting a random ABS ABD light which I thought could be a questionable battery/charging system but those were just cleared. There was an error code 39 so I wanted to replace the relays in the frunk....but how do I remove that cover
As a follow up; I was finally able to remove the relay cover. Some folks are able to wrestle the cover off with the 'panel' in place. After looking at the part itself you can see how the cover hooks onto the panel. However the best way is just removing the spare tire and pushing in the 'pin' in the rivet (#11 in prior post) so you can remove the entire panel, then easily remove the cover to expose the relays. The bottom of the panel has 'posts' that slot into the body of the car so nothing is bolted. Yes you do lose the pin behind the sheet metal but I was able to fish it out twice. Why twice? I installed it the first time without the cover....whoops. A wire or long twist-tie will help push it around until you grab it with plyers or push it out one side.
Cleaning contacts on relay's made no difference, received the ABS/ ABD light at first start up, figures, and then they disappeared at restart getting fuel. I'll replace relays and report back.
I just had the car serviced for cv boots and mentioned the intermittent ABS light and thought maybe wheel speed sensor but he seemed to rule that out. Stand by for more details and I'll take better pictures when I remove the relay panel....again.
Tarzan and 993.Coupe are correct in that there is a very small pin that is removed from the plastic rivet (# 11 in drawing posted by Tarzan) so the rivet can be pulled out to release the relay holder (#8 in drawing) so the cover can be removed to access the ABS relays. I drilled a tiny hole in the pin, threaded a tiny screw into that hole, then removed the pin by grabbing the screwhead with needle nose pliers. I guess one could just rip that plastic rivet out instead. To make access easier in the future I drilled a 7mm hole in the sheet metal so I could use a removable 7mm Toyota (or Honda) plastic rivet. I have family cars that use these so I had these rivets and the proper tool on hand. Now getting to those relays is a 2 second job. See photos below. (Sorry, not in order !)
I know this might upset the purist, so if you are one, don't look !
Going to replace the two ABS relays in my C2 (R65/R68) since I am still getting intermittent ABS light at start up. R66 and R67 are blank in mine. I called my local dealer and current part number for both of the relays is 993-615-136-01, am I risking anything with a relay from O'Reilys?
Going to replace the two ABS relays in my C2 (R65/R68) since I am still getting intermittent ABS light at start up. R66 and R67 are blank in mine. I called my local dealer and current part number for both of the relays is 993-615-136-01, am I risking anything with a relay from O'Reilys?
I won't take a chance on a non-OEM part with the exception of brake rotors, prefer GIRO 2 piece from APEX in S. Carolina, and possibly performance brake pads for the track, and I will only use MOTUL 660 brake fluid, other than that, it's Factory OEM parts for me, with virtually no exceptions.
The best deal I've found on parts is from Gaudin Porsche in Las Vegas, NV. No sales tax and they offer deals on shipping if the shipping $$$ is sufficient. I don't know what the magic # is on shipping.
11-28-2011, 06:19 AM
