60K Service
#16
On top of the clutch slave, suspension bushings, distributor belt, and motor mounts that others have told you about, you may want to do a little refresh of the top end, add a light weight flywheel/RS clutch and replace the 2nd gear syncro. You know, while you're in there.
#17
Ginch, For plug wires i ordered the red wire set from pelican, they were around 175 $, checked all the old boots with an ohm meter, one needed replacement, the rest were good and in very good condition when i cleaned them up. The instruction with the wire kit are very good and easy to follow. I only wish they pre-numbered the wires as they are all different lengths
#18
ding, ding, ding...how could I forget the front control arm bushings?
I imagine you'll find cracks in the oem rubber bisquits. It's a labor intensive job, parts and labor will probably add $500 or so to your bill-depending on the labor rate naturally. As mentioned MANY times on here, Walrod bushings make an enormous difference in the car.
Ryan, if you ever experience wandering, tramlining, slight nervousness in the front end...the bushings will nail it back down.
Waaay up on the to-do list..I'm so ashamed I didn't mention it.
and what about motor mounts too?
Just let me know if you need any more help spending your money, OK? I'm no where as smooth, or good as many members here, but I'm trying to play catch up.
I imagine you'll find cracks in the oem rubber bisquits. It's a labor intensive job, parts and labor will probably add $500 or so to your bill-depending on the labor rate naturally. As mentioned MANY times on here, Walrod bushings make an enormous difference in the car.
Ryan, if you ever experience wandering, tramlining, slight nervousness in the front end...the bushings will nail it back down.
Waaay up on the to-do list..I'm so ashamed I didn't mention it.
and what about motor mounts too?
Just let me know if you need any more help spending your money, OK? I'm no where as smooth, or good as many members here, but I'm trying to play catch up.
Ryan the Isv is very easy to clean. I'm not good with repairing vehicles at all and I have done mine 3 times already. I can take it out in 5 minutes clean it for 10 minutes and replace it in another 5. If they are going to charge you a lot to get it cleaned spend the $ in something else and DIY or I can show you. It is not something you need to have done with a 60k service, it is more of a routine cleaning that we should all probably do once or twice a year.
Thanks for the info. They are supposed to let me know about the ISV cleaning tomorrow. If they do want to charge me an insane amount I will definetly have you down for some liquid courage and a DIY session.
#19
So what does a Porsche dealer charge for the 60K Service? We should do a survey, I don't want to sideline this thread, but I just noticed that a shop in the UK, Charles Ivey Specialist Cars Ltd, have a set price to do the 30K service, for a 993 it costs 545.68 Pounds (where the heck is my pound key...)
It would be very good if dealers on this side of the pond would list these major service costs (publicly, like this ad in "Total 911"
So Grinch what was the cost in Calgary and was it the dealer?
Air-cooled greetings,
Bert
It would be very good if dealers on this side of the pond would list these major service costs (publicly, like this ad in "Total 911"
So Grinch what was the cost in Calgary and was it the dealer?
Air-cooled greetings,
Bert
#20
Here's my 60k tune---April of 2007. If it didnt needed changing, I changed it. Im **** about maintainence.
Only 13k put on the clock since then---3300 miles per year. I better get driving!!
TO BE DONE
(Note: * denotes parts supplied by me)
1. * Suspension upgrade:
a. 4 X Bilstein HD shocks (with 30mm extra threads)
b. 4 X ROW M030 Springs
c. Front 22mm M030 Sway Bar
d. Rear 20mm M030 Sway Bar
e. Rear Drop Links
f. Front Drop Links
g. KLA Strut brace install
2. * Change spark plug wires-Beru
3. * Change air inject check valve (SAI check valve)
4. * Change both cabin air/pollen filters
5. * Change the engine air filter
6. * Change all 12 spark plugs (yea, esp. # 12 that, I know, is a PITA)
7. * Change both distributor caps
8. * Change both distributor rotors
9. * Change fuel filter
10. * Change engine oil (I will supply 10Q Mobil 1 - 15W50)
11. * Change large oil filter
12. * Change small oil filter
13. * Change A/C compressor drive belt
14. * Change Alternator drive belt (inner)
15. * Change Alternator drive belt (outer)
16. * Change power steering belt
17. * change ignation coil wire
18. Change manual transmission fluid. REDLINE
19. Bleed/flush the clutch hydraulic system
20. Bleed the brakes
Note The brake system was completely flushed less than 7 months ago so the
(ATE super blue)
21. Please perform all the (remaining) normal checks, lubrications etc. as
specified in the
60k service interval. In particular, please re-lubricate/check tolerances of
the manual
transmission gear-shift linkages/bushings etc.
22. Remove and Clean ISV
23. Replace front hood shocks
**THE UNEXPECTED**
-belt tension indicator-bearing was froze.
-Ignition coil-shot for the most part
-Distributor rebuild
My ISV was really clogged up.
Only 13k put on the clock since then---3300 miles per year. I better get driving!!
TO BE DONE
(Note: * denotes parts supplied by me)
1. * Suspension upgrade:
a. 4 X Bilstein HD shocks (with 30mm extra threads)
b. 4 X ROW M030 Springs
c. Front 22mm M030 Sway Bar
d. Rear 20mm M030 Sway Bar
e. Rear Drop Links
f. Front Drop Links
g. KLA Strut brace install
2. * Change spark plug wires-Beru
3. * Change air inject check valve (SAI check valve)
4. * Change both cabin air/pollen filters
5. * Change the engine air filter
6. * Change all 12 spark plugs (yea, esp. # 12 that, I know, is a PITA)
7. * Change both distributor caps
8. * Change both distributor rotors
9. * Change fuel filter
10. * Change engine oil (I will supply 10Q Mobil 1 - 15W50)
11. * Change large oil filter
12. * Change small oil filter
13. * Change A/C compressor drive belt
14. * Change Alternator drive belt (inner)
15. * Change Alternator drive belt (outer)
16. * Change power steering belt
17. * change ignation coil wire
18. Change manual transmission fluid. REDLINE
19. Bleed/flush the clutch hydraulic system
20. Bleed the brakes
Note The brake system was completely flushed less than 7 months ago so the
(ATE super blue)
21. Please perform all the (remaining) normal checks, lubrications etc. as
specified in the
60k service interval. In particular, please re-lubricate/check tolerances of
the manual
transmission gear-shift linkages/bushings etc.
22. Remove and Clean ISV
23. Replace front hood shocks
**THE UNEXPECTED**
-belt tension indicator-bearing was froze.
-Ignition coil-shot for the most part
-Distributor rebuild
My ISV was really clogged up.
#21
I was quoted $4389 from Riegel tuning (that didn't include replacing the distributor drive belt). Ouch!!
Bought most of the parts through Pelican and saved myself around $1400 (that includes going to a different indy). Bert you can pm me if you want some more info!!!
Derek
Bought most of the parts through Pelican and saved myself around $1400 (that includes going to a different indy). Bert you can pm me if you want some more info!!!
Derek
#23
First off, change the belts, it's part of the 30k service, & is about the easiest part.
FWIW, plug wires are the MOST PITA thing I have done on the 993. It's hard, frustrating, & time consuming. This took longer on my 90kmi service then any other part of the service. Thank god they last over 10 years!
Part of the reason they are so expensive, is there are 14 leads. Over 2x as must as most other cars out there. They are also long. When you get them, just lift up the bag, it's HEAVY, way more then you would think plug wires should weigh.
The OEM ones come numbered, & are very high quality, the resistor connector ends are expensive, & that up's the cost. IMHO, it's worth the $$ & time to get the OEM ones.
Mines going in on Monday for its 60K service. I'm having everything you are having done plus the distributor drive belt and steering rack boots. Can't wait to get it back on the road. Can not believe how much the dealership wanted to charge for the plug wires!!! Even from Pelican they were a little over $500. Why are they so damn expensive????
Ginch, For plug wires i ordered the red wire set from pelican, they were around 175 $, checked all the old boots with an ohm meter, one needed replacement, the rest were good and in very good condition when i cleaned them up. The instruction with the wire kit are very good and easy to follow. I only wish they pre-numbered the wires as they are all different lengths
FWIW, plug wires are the MOST PITA thing I have done on the 993. It's hard, frustrating, & time consuming. This took longer on my 90kmi service then any other part of the service. Thank god they last over 10 years!
Part of the reason they are so expensive, is there are 14 leads. Over 2x as must as most other cars out there. They are also long. When you get them, just lift up the bag, it's HEAVY, way more then you would think plug wires should weigh.
The OEM ones come numbered, & are very high quality, the resistor connector ends are expensive, & that up's the cost. IMHO, it's worth the $$ & time to get the OEM ones.