Slow Guy

Not a expert here but I didn't see a trap door on my NA when I dropped the engine.

IXLR8

I used a quality tight fitting long L-hex key or hex key on a socket without issues. They were tight, but they came out without even marking the edges.

You have to make sure the hex key is inserted till it bottoms out. Corrosion sometimes prevents this initially.


I replaced all 12 without issues (engine-in) using a standard socket and extensions of various lengths. I think the latter is the key. You have to insert the socket by itself and then attach the appropriate extension if there are clearance issues. Cripes, I even had plenty of room for a torque wrench.

Mike J

Hmmm, this should not be a problem.

Out:
Take off the muffler and clutch vent, take off the tin and you can get access to the plug. I have a variety of sockets/extensions, and drop the socket into the hole, and then thread the extension onto the socket (since they will not fit into the hole together). Once they are connected, and the socket is on the spark plug, you can unscrew the plug. You then detach the extention from the spark plug socket, and use a magnet to fish out the spark plug socket with the spark plug attached. I use a magnetic socket on the plug.

In:

Attach the new spark plug to the socket and drop it down the hole. Thread in the extension into the hole and with some fiddling connect it to the socket. Use your fingers, feel for the threaded hole and hand thread the spark plug into the hole. Tighten appropriately (you should be able to use a micro torque wrench if you want it torqued correctly, or use the finger method). To remove the socket, pull on the extension ; it will likely come free without the socket. Pull it out, and use the magnet to pull the socket loose (you need a strong magnet).

Its harder to write then explain, but remember that removing the upper tin is a secret so you can change the upper and lower plugs on the right side of the car from the bottom. On the left hand, you do not have to remove the sheet metal, you can work from the top and bottom to do the plugs.

I use high quality hex sockets, and have a few shortened ones for those tight spots. As said before, its very important to bottom out in the hex bolts...they should just go "snap!" and unscrew. Takes a bit of a feel though, especially if the car has done a lot of heat cycles between changes.

Cheers,

Mike

Quadcammer

there is no trap door on the NA cars.

bart1

Allow me to introduce you to the Hazet 2505-2



One of Hazet's Porsche special tools, I think.

bart1

Various iterations of similar tools from them:

Renaud Bizet

This is cool thanks Bart 1 !!!!

moots

That is cool, need to try to find one of them.

bart1

Cool, but not cheap. In stock at www.samstagsales.com, I think.

Bart prefers to order Hazet from Germany.

IXLR8

I had the choice of going Hazet or Snap-On when I worked at VW. I ended up going with Snap-On, although I do have the odd Hazet tool.

moots

But you still need shroud off though, right?

Silver993

That plug was the one I could not change. I finally took it to my independent mechanic. I could tell that he bent back the sheet metal to access the plug from the wheel well. When he was done, he bent it back straight. Not sure if this approach is recommended, but I'll probably do the same myself next time. It's just too hard to get hands in there from above.

IXLR8

At the very least, not very professional and why I do my own work.

Mike J

Yeah, that is not proper technique...its a shortcut that may work short term. I do not get it, its NOT that hard to just remove the sheet metal. A professional also has a lift, so its even easier to access the spot. Do you pay him by the hour? Why is he trying to save time?

When you do it yourself, just be patient and it all comes apart, and the plug is not too hard to get changed. The money you will save from paying the "mechanic" will more than pay for high quality tools to do the job

Cheers,

Mike


Cheers,

Mike

Slow Guy

Bart, have you actually used that tool on 993 plugs? I may be off base here but while that looks like a great tool for some cars it looks to me like it's too big/deep to be able to work on several of our plugs. While I don't think you necessarily need a swivel extension like the K-D I think anything much bigger in diameter than a 3/8" extension shaft would give you problems.
I know I wouldn't use that shop again.