This is what NOT tightening your droplink mount tight enough looks like.
#16
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Lower and upper collars DEFINITELY recommended. Sure, you can hammer the heck out of it and try going without 2, and you might be successful. If the loading on the drop link is purely vertical, (i.e. sway bar installed above the lower control arm) and installed correctly, you'll often (but not always) be ok with just one. But just look at MrBonus' pic - you can see there is angular loading on the drop link, trying to work it loose. For very low cars where the sway bar is mounted UNDER the lower control arm, then 2 collars is an absolute must because the load is much less vertical.
#17
Burning Brakes
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alright... i went ahead and ordered another drop link from bilstein directly. part number e4-xb2-z002a00 for future reference and it is $74. If I had upgraded the sways I probably would have gone ahead and ordered the Tarrets for another $100 but I need to get this car back on the road ASAP.
#18
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The best way I found to put the drop links on properly is to get all your all your alignment and corner balance done, unhook the drop link, drive the rear up on a set of ramps. Now the car is in its normal rested position, you can install the drop links and make sure it is pointed down vertically. I would also just get the adjustable ones, or make your own for about $35, so that you have zero preload on the sway bars (and makes the installation easier).
Just don't ever have your car jacked up and try to install the drop links. The angles are just not the same as when it is lowered.
Just don't ever have your car jacked up and try to install the drop links. The angles are just not the same as when it is lowered.
#19
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I just got a set of HDs (from Ian, MrBonus in this thread, great guy) yesterday and will have them installed shortly. The question, really, is 2 collars on not 2 collars.
Just so I understand things correctly. Second set of collars would only be needed for the rears. The second color would go below the droplink mount. Both get tightened after the car is corner balanced. Second collars are to be sourced from Bilstein (or could they be bought in hardware store?). Sounds about right?
Also, the M030s that I got from Ian came with three sets of different thickness spacers. Where do they go, and for what purpose? My car is a C2 cab and I'd like it at regular Row height.
One more thing. Could someone measure the droplinks that came with HDs and tell me how long they are, approximately?
Just so I understand things correctly. Second set of collars would only be needed for the rears. The second color would go below the droplink mount. Both get tightened after the car is corner balanced. Second collars are to be sourced from Bilstein (or could they be bought in hardware store?). Sounds about right?
Also, the M030s that I got from Ian came with three sets of different thickness spacers. Where do they go, and for what purpose? My car is a C2 cab and I'd like it at regular Row height.
One more thing. Could someone measure the droplinks that came with HDs and tell me how long they are, approximately?
#20
Three Wheelin'
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Heyo,
Agree with the installation of a SECOND set of locking collars on the REARS.
Agree with setting-up the droplinks with the car DOWN and NOT up on jack-stands. The angles ARE different!
Had the ViperBob Bilstein/HD/beefy-swaybar fandango done on my car ummm 4 years ago-ish. After one track day - the driver's side rear shock 'twisted' and broke the droplink and 'grazed' the suspension (but didn't bend anything, phew!).
Had my indy take everything apart (yes $$$) and re-do it, but this time, with an extra set of locking collars -- on BOTH sides. Hasn't moved since.
Gerry
Agree with the installation of a SECOND set of locking collars on the REARS.
Agree with setting-up the droplinks with the car DOWN and NOT up on jack-stands. The angles ARE different!
Had the ViperBob Bilstein/HD/beefy-swaybar fandango done on my car ummm 4 years ago-ish. After one track day - the driver's side rear shock 'twisted' and broke the droplink and 'grazed' the suspension (but didn't bend anything, phew!).
Had my indy take everything apart (yes $$$) and re-do it, but this time, with an extra set of locking collars -- on BOTH sides. Hasn't moved since.
Gerry
#22
Burning Brakes
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well got the Control Arm in, new drop link in, ride height adjusted to RS+10, and was getting it aligned when they went to adjust the toe on the front and realized I somehow managed to break break a Tie Rod end. At least I know what the hell the sound on my front suspension was from. No car till Tues or Wed now ![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
I have new speedlines and I cant seem to get the car back so i can put them on!!
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I have new speedlines and I cant seem to get the car back so i can put them on!!
#23
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I DIY PS10s on my '96 C4S and the supplied kit drop links broke (tour apart at the eyelets). So I got the 993 rear Tarrets and tried and tried to install them but the sway bar was almost touching the lower suspension control arm, maybe 1/2" clearance at rest. I had the rear mounting colars lifted (has threads) so I could get more clearence. However, I still had to have Tarret supply one each side 964 piece to get the clearance satisfactory. However, I suspect the sway bar has some load on it even at rest and the drop link is not perfectly verticle when I look at it at rest. After a few thousand miles they are still intact. Why no sway bar load at rest ??? And why verticle ?
Possibly related is that the rear camber is a tad negative (the same amount on each rear) and the indi-tech insist that i get a $350 Eccentric tool that can correct the rear camber to zero camber, the fronts were slightly drilled wider at the camber holes to adjust the fronts to zero camber. The p dealer shop has done several 4 wheel alignments on my car and they said they use the Eccentric tool but then why are the camber bolts hex shaped and not like the ones that come with the $350 Eccentric tool so the tool can fit (rest) upon the round bolt heads ? You have to leave the round camber adj bolts in place and trash the hex bolt ones, right ? The tool does not work on the hex bolts.
thanks Patrick
1996 C4S
Possibly related is that the rear camber is a tad negative (the same amount on each rear) and the indi-tech insist that i get a $350 Eccentric tool that can correct the rear camber to zero camber, the fronts were slightly drilled wider at the camber holes to adjust the fronts to zero camber. The p dealer shop has done several 4 wheel alignments on my car and they said they use the Eccentric tool but then why are the camber bolts hex shaped and not like the ones that come with the $350 Eccentric tool so the tool can fit (rest) upon the round bolt heads ? You have to leave the round camber adj bolts in place and trash the hex bolt ones, right ? The tool does not work on the hex bolts.
thanks Patrick
1996 C4S
#26
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Thanks.
Also, it's been mentioned that a _pair_ of extra collars are needed for each rear shock (i.e. three collars per shock on the rear). Is that so?
Also, it's been mentioned that a _pair_ of extra collars are needed for each rear shock (i.e. three collars per shock on the rear). Is that so?
#27
Three Wheelin'
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Mike,
They're not needed but preferred. An extra collar to go beneath the sway bar mount will help ensure no movement from any horizontal loads applied by the end link. I did not use an extra collar when I ran them and never had an issue and currently am not having any further issues on the PSS10s without the additional collar.
However, if I were installing them from scratch, I'd order an additional pair of collars (They're only like $11 each) for peace of mind.
They're not needed but preferred. An extra collar to go beneath the sway bar mount will help ensure no movement from any horizontal loads applied by the end link. I did not use an extra collar when I ran them and never had an issue and currently am not having any further issues on the PSS10s without the additional collar.
However, if I were installing them from scratch, I'd order an additional pair of collars (They're only like $11 each) for peace of mind.
#28
Race Director
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I had the exact same thing happen to mine, and my suspension/alignment shop blamed improper installation (by a different mechanic). They replaced the control arm, reinstalled the sway bar with a new drop link and I haven't had a problem since.
#29
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Ian, I'll definitely be getting extra collars. The question is - do I need one extra per side or two extra per side for the rear struts (from everything I've read it seems that front's are OK without extra collars)?
#30
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