sdrake

Did my first autocross in my stock 96 cab. Had an absolute blast but realized very quickly that my stock 17in cup wheels with crappy v rated tires will not hold up.

So whats the best way to go and stay DOT?

Stick with the 17 in wheels or find some 18 inch? Go wider (if even possible) or stay with stock width?

What tires and in what size should I be looking at??

thanks to all!

Makmov

It seems to kind of come down to these that are regularly reported as the best AX tires.

What are you running now?

Shaved
Kumho Ecsta XS

Bridgestone Potenza RE-11 or RE-1R

Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 StarSpec
These were specifically designed with AX in mind.

Although if you are planning on driving them on the street they don't last long.

You probably want to go through your set up before spending a bunch of money on rims. Just get a good set of tires on the stock rims and have someone help you sort out the alignment, tire pressures, spring rates, dampers and bars first.

Nollie

I'm running the Kumho Ecsta XS and have been doing well all season. Most folks I run in street tire with are on StarSpecs. I was going to go with StarSpecs but I didn't see them in a 315 on TireRack.

e9stibi

In addition, you might look at:

Nitto NT 01 (will be my next tire)
Yokahama AD08 (currently have AD07 which are really nice and street drivable)
Falken Azenis RT 615 (used them before with success)

certz

I have been using MPSC's on MY02's with a lot of success, but it can get hard to compete with others who run Hoosiers. I really like the sport cups but if this is a DD and you do not have dedicated rims they will not last long.

bobesser

SCCA?
Then you want the lightest wheel you can get in a stock size. Roll the wheel wells and stick the fastest hoosiers you can fit.

But before that, do across school level 2 and get a lot of time beneath your belt.

Bob

nile13

Do not change tires. Stick (no pun intended) with the same tires you have for at least a few events. Just put more pressure into them, say 36-40 front, 40-46 rear. In the same vein, do not make _any_ changes to the car. Learn what the car does and what you want to change and why. Specifically, do not even consider changing wheels right now, you have no idea how the classing would be affected with different clubs.

This is my abridged thought after 11 years of autocrossing 20-30 events a year.

PS. There is a sticker on my car that says: "Autocrossing - as addictive as drugs, but more expensive".

mcipseric

MY02 18s with Hoosier A6 - DRUGS

Stealth 993

What class, & what organization are you running with?

I run my C4 in stock class, & we are not allowed to change tire sizes, or withs. You are already at a disadvantage with a cab.

There are a few hot stock class tires...
Yoko AD08
RE11

The Boxters in my class are running the Star Spec & the new Hankook Ventus R-S3, but I think it will be outlawed as it's a 140 tread wear tire, & I think the lowest you can go is 180.

There are a lot of other great tires out their, but they do not come with our sizes, you can get either the fronts or rear, but not both.

fast_freddy

Dunlop Direzza Star Spec or Michelin PS/2's if you want to drive on the street too. The Michelins are about .4 sec faster for a 35-40 second course. I have Bridgestone RE11's and while they are a fine tire for spirited street driving they are easily 1+ seconds slower than the above. All of the above will pale in comparison to some of the aforementioned Kumho's/Hoosiers/Toyo Proxes though.

race911

There's nothing crappy about "V" rated tires, in and of itself. That's merely a speed rating. Now if the tires are otherwise crappy--low-end model (no matter from which manufacturer) or old (more than five years but maybe as little as three), then that's another issue.

All-in-all, a first-timer with an otherwise stock car doesn't really need to jump in by changing equipment. I'd guess that any of us here with experience, with a minimum of correct tire pressure, could massage a quick time out of your car. Most fun we've ever had? Certainly not. But you can make the car perform. And it's certainly a capable platform from which to learn.

Again, all of the above make no sense if your tires ARE, in fact, bad. If so, I'd concentrate on any of the good, lowish priced street tires out there. Many here have actual experience with them. The one modification would be to run a 225 tire up front, if it's still got 205s.

Reddy Kilowatt

What tires are you running now?

Makmov

I already asked that, might not even be real tires, could be little round rubber things for all we know.

Maybe they are Maypops. May pop at any time.

sdrake

Running all season kumhos now that have less than half their life on them.

I was put in the A stock class with the Southern WV SCCA group. Really a great group of guys. Reason for the tire and wheel question was born from a few of the senior guys running that day. Two folks road with me to give me pointers and they both said the 14 year old shocks need replaced and that my tires were just not a good tire for the car.

Not really concerned with staying in the stock class... Actually want to drop the car to the euro ride specs, so I'm sure that blows the stock issue out of the water.

Great info here! Thanks to everyone.

certz

Ah, so you want us to give you suggestions on suspension as well? We would be happy to help you spend your money...