road rash
#16
Rennlist Member
Are I've had mine for 2 months and when I picked it up, there were no stone chips. I'm extremely **** about where/how I drive, but I have gotten so many chips on the front end that I’m almost afraid to take it on weekend trips. Is the paint soft (or maybe too hard) on the 993’s?
But by all means, don't be afraid to drive it!
#17
Nordschleife Master
It appears that the original paint is more durable. I have seen some repainted front ends that look much, much worse than the 70k worth on my nose. I am going to try one of the paint kits from Dr ColorChip or Langka to see if it will make it look somewhat decent. Maybe applying the clear bra over would mask the irregularity of the repairs.
But by all means, don't be afraid to drive it!
But by all means, don't be afraid to drive it!
#18
Burning Brakes
I have been around body shops for some time. I just hang out and learn. The one thing I quickly realized was there is a big difference in the quality of paint and hardeners used by shops. Just like anything else there is cheaper products and there is the "good stuff". I put a turbo front bumper cover on my car and have no rock chips. We did use an expensive paint but it is worth it in my opinion. The higher end European paint lines like Standox and Glasurit (BASF product) use quality resins that give the paint strength. Another key to a strong paint job is the prep work put into the body work. Without correct prep work no paint will hold well.
Last edited by larpy; 08-10-2010 at 12:53 AM.
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the great responses. I bought by the alternative to "Dr Colorchip". According to the explanation of how to apply Dr Colorchip, I wasn't comfortable smearing a color on the vehicle that was just close to red. Maybe I need to rethink it. I bought the Langka product. It uses the factory paint touch-up bottle. You touch up the chip and leave a blob. Then you remove the blob with their product by slowly wiping it down with their remover. I think it's a weak chemical type product. Still have not tried it because I'm too afraid of how it may look applied to chips on such a big location as the hood. It seems I just may as well try it and live with the results as the alternative is a respray, which I cannot afford at this time. Anybody used the Langka product before? If I touched it up, any comments as to applying a clear bra over the touched up areas?
#20
button queen
I used Dr Colorchip on my DD (an Arena Red Acura RL) and it worked perfectly. Now I'm screwing up my courage to work on the 993.
I do have a plan to layer in several applications then buff with 2500-3000 grit and polish, but will do the spoiler before I attack the hood and fenders.
We'll see!!
I do have a plan to layer in several applications then buff with 2500-3000 grit and polish, but will do the spoiler before I attack the hood and fenders.
We'll see!!
#21
Drifting
Mine has been on there for one year, & already I have cracked a side marker lens, & have quite a few nicks in the clear bra, a couple have gone through. It really does take a beating. I'm going to have the bumper one replaced, but really it's the Aero kit II lip that gets the worst of it.
Our cars are meant to be driven, so get out and drive it or relegate it to garage queen or museum display.
A correct respray of the nose of the car for asthetic rather than for collision reasons should not detract from a car's value.
#22
Three Wheelin'
Fellas,
I've used both the Langka ("blob remover") product AND Dr. Colorchip on my car -- on the hood, roof, rear-quarter panels, you name it.
Soooooo, do NOT be afraid to use it! -- do NOT be afraid to have a 'big blob' that you will chemically 'rub down' and do NOT be afraid to 'smear' the paint in and around the 'chip'. Trust me, been there, done that, seen the movie, got the T-shirt.
Both products are well-thought-out and do the job well.
Obviously, NO affiliation etc. -- but am an avid user!
Gerry
I've used both the Langka ("blob remover") product AND Dr. Colorchip on my car -- on the hood, roof, rear-quarter panels, you name it.
Soooooo, do NOT be afraid to use it! -- do NOT be afraid to have a 'big blob' that you will chemically 'rub down' and do NOT be afraid to 'smear' the paint in and around the 'chip'. Trust me, been there, done that, seen the movie, got the T-shirt.
Both products are well-thought-out and do the job well.
Obviously, NO affiliation etc. -- but am an avid user!
Gerry
#23
Nordschleife Master
Replace the side marker and get some of the lens protection film from Griot's and apply with alcohol spray.
Our cars are meant to be driven, so get out and drive it or relegate it to garage queen or museum display.
A correct respray of the nose of the car for asthetic rather than for collision reasons should not detract from a car's value.
Our cars are meant to be driven, so get out and drive it or relegate it to garage queen or museum display.
A correct respray of the nose of the car for asthetic rather than for collision reasons should not detract from a car's value.
#24
Nordschleife Master
Thanks for all the great responses. I bought by the alternative to "Dr Colorchip". According to the explanation of how to apply Dr Colorchip, I wasn't comfortable smearing a color on the vehicle that was just close to red. Maybe I need to rethink it. I bought the Langka product. It uses the factory paint touch-up bottle. You touch up the chip and leave a blob. Then you remove the blob with their product by slowly wiping it down with their remover. I think it's a weak chemical type product. Still have not tried it because I'm too afraid of how it may look applied to chips on such a big location as the hood. It seems I just may as well try it and live with the results as the alternative is a respray, which I cannot afford at this time. Anybody used the Langka product before? If I touched it up, any comments as to applying a clear bra over the touched up areas?
#25
Three Wheelin'
There's lots more exposed paint at the front since "soft" bumpers replaced chrome, the paint is now water based, and cars are lower to the ground.