Brake Flush Questions
06-08-2010, 09:49 PM
#16
Three Wheelin'
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I will bleed them in the correct order another time and see if it takes care of the problem.
I really dont think its air because the pedal was soft before i did anything, i think the gunk buildup is somehow at fault.
There was close to a quarter inch on the bottom of the reservoir thats why I cleaned it dry because I didnt want to leave that stuff in the reservoir.
I really dont think its air because the pedal was soft before i did anything, i think the gunk buildup is somehow at fault.
There was close to a quarter inch on the bottom of the reservoir thats why I cleaned it dry because I didnt want to leave that stuff in the reservoir.
06-08-2010, 09:53 PM
#17
Drifting
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Sounds nasty...doing it once and then leaving a week and doing again fresh my help.....do you have a Motive Bleeder...it really is a great help, especially if you need to pass a fair amount of fluid through to get the crap out...I hope you have good luck.
06-08-2010, 09:55 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
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I dont have a power bleeder, And waiting for one once I order it doesent sound fun.
I dont get this "doing it once and then leaving a week and doing again fresh my help"
I dont get this "doing it once and then leaving a week and doing again fresh my help"
06-08-2010, 10:04 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
No afil but surley one of the dealers in Portland stocks them.
Oregon
Discount Import Parts Milwaukie 877-659-7444
IPD Portland 503-257-7500
Italian Car Parts West Linn 503-655-9811
John Snyder Tool Co. Portland 503-288-7437
L&R Tools Bend 541-408-7471
Lucille's Hillsboro 503-648-1762
Mini Madness Beaverton 503-449-4745
Techtonics Tuning Sheridan 503-843-2700
Good luck with it!
06-08-2010, 10:07 PM
#20
Drifting
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I was thinking if the system is full of gunk then fresh brake fluid may help soften it and then getting the pressure on there for the power bleeder may push the stuff through. I had a problem on a CRV that I bought as a daily driver that had not had brakes bled in years and it was full of real nasty stuff that a second bleed a couple of weeks later cleared.
06-08-2010, 10:08 PM
#22
Three Wheelin'
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I was thinking if the system is full of gunk then fresh brake fluid may help soften it and then getting the pressure on there for the power bleeder may push the stuff through. I had a problem on a CRV that I bought as a daily driver that had not had brakes bled in years and it was full of real nasty stuff that a second bleed a couple of weeks later cleared.
06-08-2010, 10:12 PM
#24
Burning Brakes
Yes indeed. I don't fill the jug I just stop and refill the reservoir before it gets too low. It is the only way to bleed the slave cylinder IMO. I had a junky vacuum bleeder but always hated it. Motive black gets
(two thumbs up).
There are plenty of old posts that praise the black version, my neighbor borrowed mine and the next week showed me his new one, he also got all of the other cap adapters so he can do pretty much any car made.
(two thumbs up).There are plenty of old posts that praise the black version, my neighbor borrowed mine and the next week showed me his new one, he also got all of the other cap adapters so he can do pretty much any car made.
06-09-2010, 04:17 AM
#26
Rennlist Member
pumping the pedal to bleed the brake system in a 993 is very un-orthodox.
In old ordinary cars, when dad asked you to pump, you could floor the pedal, not in a 993
the race of the piston in the brake master cylinder is very short compared to other brake master's of the mid 90's normal cars.
if your brake fluid circuit is unpressurized and you depress the pedal more than 10 cms, you will tilt and/or tear the brake cylinder rubber jacket (seal).
this is why the race of the pedal in operation is very short.
power bleeding is how it was done at factory.
Power bleeding is not only a one man operation solution, but serves the above reason as well I presume.
my .02 cts
In old ordinary cars, when dad asked you to pump, you could floor the pedal, not in a 993
the race of the piston in the brake master cylinder is very short compared to other brake master's of the mid 90's normal cars.
if your brake fluid circuit is unpressurized and you depress the pedal more than 10 cms, you will tilt and/or tear the brake cylinder rubber jacket (seal).
this is why the race of the pedal in operation is very short.
power bleeding is how it was done at factory.
Power bleeding is not only a one man operation solution, but serves the above reason as well I presume.
my .02 cts
06-09-2010, 12:45 PM
#27
Nordschleife Master
Don't want to beat a dead horse, but yea, you did it wrong.
You don't need the power bleeder, the 2 man method is good, as is a gravity bleed. I like to activate the ABS pump to get the gunk out of it as well. DO NOT put the brake or clutch all the way down you can damage it.
You can bleed the brakes with less then 1l, but a FLUSH takes a couple. On cars that do not get a regular fluid change you can have a bunch of little crusties in the fluid, or it will be really dark. I really hope you have a line that goes over the bleeder nipples? Air can get in there very easily if you don't have a line with just a bit of fluid in it. When you let off the pedal it will suck back a bit, & can pull in air.
DO NOT MESS around with brakes, do it 100% EVERY TIME! If you don't you can make a new garage door when you hit the brakes & there are none! Seen this happen in a repair shop.
You don't need the power bleeder, the 2 man method is good, as is a gravity bleed. I like to activate the ABS pump to get the gunk out of it as well. DO NOT put the brake or clutch all the way down you can damage it.
You can bleed the brakes with less then 1l, but a FLUSH takes a couple. On cars that do not get a regular fluid change you can have a bunch of little crusties in the fluid, or it will be really dark. I really hope you have a line that goes over the bleeder nipples? Air can get in there very easily if you don't have a line with just a bit of fluid in it. When you let off the pedal it will suck back a bit, & can pull in air.
DO NOT MESS around with brakes, do it 100% EVERY TIME! If you don't you can make a new garage door when you hit the brakes & there are none! Seen this happen in a repair shop.
06-09-2010, 02:20 PM
#30
When I introduced air, I followed the following advice from RL (and it worked!).
1. While bleeding each nipple, turn on and off the ignition a couple of time which moves the pump impellars (and the fluid with the potential air).
2. I did this two complete "rounds" and had a hard pedal.
3. Use a rubber mullet and knock at the caliper that you are bleeding to move the bubbles that accumulate there.
4. GET YOU THE F....G MOTIVE BLEEDER and plenty of fluid. Best tool I have in the garage.
You might take a cheaper DOT 4 fluid to flush gunk and air out before you do the final "fill" with the good stuff.
Good luck!
1. While bleeding each nipple, turn on and off the ignition a couple of time which moves the pump impellars (and the fluid with the potential air).
2. I did this two complete "rounds" and had a hard pedal.
3. Use a rubber mullet and knock at the caliper that you are bleeding to move the bubbles that accumulate there.
4. GET YOU THE F....G MOTIVE BLEEDER and plenty of fluid. Best tool I have in the garage.
You might take a cheaper DOT 4 fluid to flush gunk and air out before you do the final "fill" with the good stuff.
Good luck!