Time for an engine drop...
#1
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I've had my car for three years now and have put close to 30,000 miles on it, miles that have been completely trouble-free other than routine maintenance. With 111,000 on the clock and a few days of free time (for a change) I figured it was time to do some preventive maintenance plus some mods.
I'm doing the RS clutch and lightweight flywheel, sending the gearbox to Joel Reiser for an LSD and RS gears, and I'm doing a bunch of maintenance while I'm in there -- getting the injectors cleaned and flow matched, distributor and alternator rebuilt, etc.
I'd never pulled a 993 motor before but have done the job on a number of previously owned 911's. The bottom line is that it's really not very hard at all, there are just a few more steps to get through than in the earlier cars. It took me four hours to get it on the ground. Tomorrow I'll separate the gearbox and get it sent off for the rebuild.
I have to give a big shout-out to my old friend Paul Jacques, the owner of Rennline, who let me use the lift at his shop. I'm going to be doing the Rennline engine carrier reinforcement and solid rear subframe mounts in addition to all the other stuff. On to the pics...
I'm doing the RS clutch and lightweight flywheel, sending the gearbox to Joel Reiser for an LSD and RS gears, and I'm doing a bunch of maintenance while I'm in there -- getting the injectors cleaned and flow matched, distributor and alternator rebuilt, etc.
I'd never pulled a 993 motor before but have done the job on a number of previously owned 911's. The bottom line is that it's really not very hard at all, there are just a few more steps to get through than in the earlier cars. It took me four hours to get it on the ground. Tomorrow I'll separate the gearbox and get it sent off for the rebuild.
I have to give a big shout-out to my old friend Paul Jacques, the owner of Rennline, who let me use the lift at his shop. I'm going to be doing the Rennline engine carrier reinforcement and solid rear subframe mounts in addition to all the other stuff. On to the pics...
#2
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Nice! Envious of your soon to be new gearbox!!
Might want to add CV boots to the list if they are not already fresh. They are a PITA to change even with the gearbox out and they are cheap. Can't imagine doing them with everything in the car!
Might want to add CV boots to the list if they are not already fresh. They are a PITA to change even with the gearbox out and they are cheap. Can't imagine doing them with everything in the car!
#3
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The maintenance list so far is:
1. Shift linkage bushings (the front and center ones feel sloppy -- these aren't supposed to have any play, are they?)
2. Engine sound pad
3. O-ring under breather cover/any other oil leaks I can find
4. Injectors
5. Distributor
6. Alternator
7. Subframe mounts
8. Engine carrier
9. Gearbox work
10. Clutch/flywheel
11. Fuel filter/air filter
12. CV boots (not sure -- the boots look great)
13. Rear main seal
14. Brake pads and rotors
Am I missing anything? I did the plugs, caps, and rotors recently. The wires were done before I bought the car, at 75K. The power steering system is removed (I installed a 964 RS America rack a couple years ago), so nothing to do there.
1. Shift linkage bushings (the front and center ones feel sloppy -- these aren't supposed to have any play, are they?)
2. Engine sound pad
3. O-ring under breather cover/any other oil leaks I can find
4. Injectors
5. Distributor
6. Alternator
7. Subframe mounts
8. Engine carrier
9. Gearbox work
10. Clutch/flywheel
11. Fuel filter/air filter
12. CV boots (not sure -- the boots look great)
13. Rear main seal
14. Brake pads and rotors
Am I missing anything? I did the plugs, caps, and rotors recently. The wires were done before I bought the car, at 75K. The power steering system is removed (I installed a 964 RS America rack a couple years ago), so nothing to do there.
#4
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That looks like the same method I used to pull mine. As a bonus the engine is up high on a table and thus is easier to work on. One other thing to add to the list is the power steering belt. Also, I hate changing spark plugs so much that I changed mine - they only had 8K miles on them - but I figure it delayed the unpleasant for another year ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
You'll love the RS gears.
Cheers,
Joe
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You'll love the RS gears.
Cheers,
Joe
#5
Three Wheelin'
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Take a look at the following:
- vacuum lines
- air injector hoses and large vacuum hoses - there are a couple of large-ish ones on the back of the engine that are inaccessible
dave
- vacuum lines
- air injector hoses and large vacuum hoses - there are a couple of large-ish ones on the back of the engine that are inaccessible
dave
#6
Seared
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Very, very cool! I'm jealous and look forward to doing the same one day. Sounds strange, huh?
As for the ball cups for the shifter (static) rod, I'd ditch them and pick up FD Motorsports' version. You'll have bombproof Heim joints and a crisper feel through the gears. I made my own version a few years ago and am pleased with the action every time I row through the gears.
Good luck.
Andreas
As for the ball cups for the shifter (static) rod, I'd ditch them and pick up FD Motorsports' version. You'll have bombproof Heim joints and a crisper feel through the gears. I made my own version a few years ago and am pleased with the action every time I row through the gears.
Good luck.
Andreas
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#8
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Very, very cool! I'm jealous and look forward to doing the same one day. Sounds strange, huh?
As for the ball cups for the shifter (static) rod, I'd ditch them and pick up FD Motorsports' version. You'll have bombproof Heim joints and a crisper feel through the gears. I made my own version a few years ago and am pleased with the action every time I row through the gears.
As for the ball cups for the shifter (static) rod, I'd ditch them and pick up FD Motorsports' version. You'll have bombproof Heim joints and a crisper feel through the gears. I made my own version a few years ago and am pleased with the action every time I row through the gears.
Anyway, all I need are the ball cups for the front and the one directly underneath the shifter. I made my own RS coupler for the rear when I first got the car. I think in this case, I might just order the stock bushings. I'm dropping some coin on the gearbox and need to keep this little project in check...
PS I will spend somewhere between 5 and 30 minutes involved in cleaning...it's just not going to happen. My condolences.
#11
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It would make a lot of sense to pull apart the CV joints, clean off the old grease (which has probably started to liquify), check the CV joint bearing race surfaces for pitting, re-grease with Neo, reboot and reassemble. Every 10 or 15 years, whether they need it or not.
#13
Seared
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#14
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What would really be cool is if you could come and take care of some cleaning for me. There's no corrosion, just road grime and cosmoline. Damn I don't want to do this. I really don't.
#15
Pro
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Hi
I read that the rear brake lines are woth changing if you have the g'box out. Is this true. I will be dropping my engine sometime this summer, so thanks for the pics. I have already strengthened my carrier and gone for RS mounts.
By the way, do you really need to undo any of the rear suspension arms to get the engine out?
Many thanks..............Berni
I read that the rear brake lines are woth changing if you have the g'box out. Is this true. I will be dropping my engine sometime this summer, so thanks for the pics. I have already strengthened my carrier and gone for RS mounts.
By the way, do you really need to undo any of the rear suspension arms to get the engine out?
Many thanks..............Berni