Blaine S

Noah,

In my opinion 3rd, 4th, and 5th are the most important to change.

I went with:

3rd 1.5789
4th 1.2857
5th 1.0833
6th 0.9211

Later I changed the 6th (which was my old 5th gear) back to the original 0.775 because I liked the lower RPM on the highway for long drives and redline in 5th is 135mph which is just fine.

Think about the RS ratios, as I remember they were spaced a little farther apart than I wanted. you really want to bring the 3-5th together and let me tell you, it is by far and away the best mod out there for a 993.

Enjoy!

NP993

I was -- I pressed down on the (plastic) shroud and wiggled it out of there. I might not be able to reinstall it and will have to lift the manifold, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it...

Van1

I sometimes get oil dripping from that actuator as well. Big question is, why is there oil in the intake? I figure either a slight overfill or it sloshes in there somehow during track events (At the track is where all my little oil leaks manifest themselves, never on the road).

Akerlie

Isn't there a breather from the crankcase that vents into the intake or something ? I don't track my car nor do i drive it very hard but I still have this annoying leak :S
Anyway, I am going to try to get the actuator out, clean it and give it a new gasket and see if it helps

Thank you Noah for the nice pictures and sorry for stealing the thread.

boulderbobo

I am confused..and I am by no measure an expert on this subject, but doesn't the gap between 1 and 2 totally suck

maybe you guys don't use 1 and 2 while racing on a track. I use those 2 gears all the time.

I think if I were modifying my box I would replace 2-5 with a tigher ratios and move 5 to 6th. The goal would be to minimize the gaps.

Yes I would lose some top end, but I rarely use 6th gear anyway. No big loss.

NP993

I'm doing RS ratios for 3, 4, and 5. Leaving 6th stock, as I like the tall gearing for easy highway cruising. RS 2nd is virtually identical to stock 2nd, RS 1st is taller. Yes it would be nice to have an RS 1st, but have you looked at what a new mainshaft plus 1st and 2nd gears cost? You'd be paying thousands and thousands of dollars for having a taller 1st gear, which you barely use. Not a smart investment, IMHO.

Wilder

A tall 1st with LWFW/C is awesome for track but will eat through clutches on a street car.

Blaine S

It's true that first to second is a bit quick but how often do you launch out of first? When you are actually driving the car 2nd<->5th is what you are using and I agree with Noah that stock 6th is a better cruising gear. When I was using my old 5th gear in the 6th position I always was looking to upshift when just taking it easy on the highway. On the track or on the back roads, the 2nd-3rd-4th-5th combination with shorter gears is just too much fun. I'd have a hard time choosing between the short gearbox and a 3.8L conversion even if they were the same price.

NP993

The gearbox arrived today and I finished getting the motor put back together. I wheeled it outside gave it a mild scrub-down with some diluted degreaser, then polished it up with that 303 stuff that everyone loves. For 110K miles, my engine looks great. No salt or winters for this car.

e3photo

Lookin good Noah.



Emerald

JM993

[QUOTE=boulderbobo;7648642]I am confused..and I am by no measure an expert on this subject, but doesn't the gap between 1 and 2 totally suck

maybe you guys don't use 1 and 2 while racing on a track. I use those 2 gears all the time.QUOTE]

Me too. The gap between 1st and 2nd is what motivated me to get an RS gearbox. I find the taller first gear of the RS box perfectly fine for street driving so long as I don't spend hours driving in hilly stop and go traffic. The only disadvantage for me is that the car can be hard to launch - but then again it's hardly a drag racer. Another plus, a tall 1st is a usable gear for more than just starting off.

Cheers,
Joe

boulderbobo

I thought the way most folks modified these boxes was to keep oem 1st and change to shorter 2, 3, 4, 5 and move oem 5th to the 6th position.

Obviously, I need to do more homework on this.



Bob-

baron95993

I love it great pics!!!!

NP993

Getting very close now. Today I bolted the engine to the gearbox, bolted up the starter and the front mount assembly, and attached the electrical connections.

As far as assembling the clutch fork and fork shaft goes, this was pretty straightforward, although if I had to do it again it would take me half the time. The only difficulty was that I had to really wiggle the clutch fork to get the shaft through; at first I didn't have the throw-out bearing ears in the right spot to let it position itself to allow the shaft all the way through. I replaced the fork bushings and the two shaft needle bearings and greased everything properly.

The only screwup so far is that I got everything bolted together but forgot to put in the little rubber grommet that covers up most of the cutout in the bellhousing for the flywheel position sensor. To get it in, I had to loosen the sensor -- and now that the grommet is in, there's no way to gap the damned thing. Isn't there an electrical way to check whether the crank sensor is properly gapped? Anyone have any thoughts here?

Anyway, it's probably going to be Wednesday before I get the lump back in the car. Paul has his 997 on the lift with half the suspension disassembled (for Rennline product development), so I have to wait my turn...but the anticipation is killing me. I'm going from a bone-stock transmission/clutch to an RS clutch/flywheel, RS gears, RS mount, LSD, steel syncros, steel shift fork, solid subframe mounts...it's going to be a different car! Only a few more days.

PS does anyone notice something odd about this engine? Something different/missing? Something very clearly visible in the two pics below...?

rsr91128

Manual steering rack? SWEEEET

Looks like fun, keep us posted.


Not sure but I think the electrical way is to spin the engine over, tear the end off the sensor, disassemble, replace and reinstall a new one. Sorry