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Immobilizer Code

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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 04:07 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Rinty
There are two types of keys: the one piece switchblade, and the two piece key / fob. The circuit board is inside the switchblade, and in the two piece, it's in the fob.
OK, so you are matching the remote to the control unit. The key itself does not provide any signal.

Thanks for that link. It had me check the P-Car site again where it clarified the differences in programming depending on the model year.

Well even if they flat bed it, they're going to have one hell of a time starting it thereafter. Maybe they can sell it as a paperweight.
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 11:16 PM
  #17  
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Thanks for that link
You're welcome. After two years of ownership, I've quit worrying about the immobilizer. Like BMW bike final drives, not many of them fail. I carry a spare DME relay, some fresh batteries for the remote, and if we're out touring, I bring the switchblade as a backup key.

Even if the immobilizer turned out to be a problem, I could get the control unit reflashed to eliminate it.

Last edited by Rinty; Mar 7, 2010 at 12:09 PM.
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 04:00 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 993/907
My two cents says "programming" the immobilizer won't do any good.
Try this: Turn ignition back on, press immobilizer, then turn off ignition. Maybe do it two or three times, then try to lock your car with the immobilizer.
If that doesn't do it, turn the igition on and off severl times; when you remove the key make sure you get a solid "snap" as the key is removed. Then try to lock your car with the immobilizer.
If that doesn't do it, close the car door and wait several minutes and try to lock your car with the immobilizer.
Try your spare key, it may make a better contact inside the keyway and lead to a more positive uncoupling when you remove the key.
My ignition switch will occasionally "cry" when I remove the key....not the chime sound, but a fading cry.
My immobilizer problems come and go. Right now working fine, but a month ago it did the same as yours. I think the trouble is somewhere in the ignition keyway.

Gordo

Great Advice! Thank you.

I went into the garage just now and just played with the Ignition cycling it on and off over and over, Then I pulled out the key Waiting for the loud "Snap" and pulled the key out with pressure on it to the counter clockwise side. Raised my hand to get the remote a little farther from the car and it worked from the first time. I then Cycled the immobilizer by arming and disarming it 5-8 times and it worked every single time. Im so happy right now...............

Now hopefully it stays working, but from now on I will defintaly pay more attention to the ignition.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 09:23 AM
  #19  
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Folks, a lot of problems are blamed on the IMMOBILIZER (sometimes rightfully so) but can, in actuality, be the clutch microswitch at the base of the pedal assembly. If the switch is bad and won't send a signal that the clutch pedal is depressed, the car won't start. In order to take out that variable, you can just by-pass the switch but, if you do, either keep depressing the pedal when starting or be absolutely certain your car is in neutral.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 09:11 PM
  #20  
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Clutch/ignition switch must be something they did on later cars. My 95 starts without depressing the clutch pedal.
Gordo
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 07:26 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by cy7878
4 digits used to de-activate the immoblizer and to re-train new remotes if you ever get a new one.
I think you may be confusing immobilizer codes with key codes.

The service manager at my local dealer is the only person that has access to immobilizer codes through Porsche and they are not to be handed out.

As for key codes, that is another matter. He is getting that for me.

If one cannot start the car using the remote, the key code is what is used to start the car using the key to enter the code via the ignition switch by the number of off-on cycles of the key based on the key code. I believe I have that right.
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 11:16 AM
  #22  
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Default Key Fob Programming

See my older post in the 993 list "Remote Entry Key Fob Programming Made Easy

Andy :-)
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 08:30 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Rinty
Even if the immobilizer turned out to be a problem, I could get the control unit reflashed to eliminate it.
So who does a reflash to eliminate the immobilizer?
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 08:46 PM
  #24  
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Steve Weiner does them, but I don't know who's doing them in the N.E.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 03:12 AM
  #25  
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I keep my 993 in its own separate garage stall, which has no man door to the outside. The garage door opener is kept turned off. The man door between the stall and the rest of the garage has a dead bolt, and sits in a reinforced frame. I can also place a 2 x 4 between the garage door top and the roof joists. It's just a bit of extra security.
Jeez, where do you live, in Somalia?
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 04:05 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 2Many Cars
Jeez, where do you live, in Somalia?
You think this guy is going to tell you where this car is, someone might try to take it
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