944/951guy

Where do I get the Immobilizer code for my car?
It seem like something is wrong with my immobilizer or remote. It takes me 10-15 times to deactivate or activate my alarm. I tried changing the battery and it still does the same thing.
Could it be the remote going out or do I have a diffrent problem?

cy7878

my is on a little card inside the manual folder. If you don't have it, maybe a call for the dealer is required.

993/907

Welcome to immobilzer hell.
Last time mine went funky I changed ignition keys and lubed the keyway. Sometimes it takes key jiggling while still in the keyway. Sometimes it takes turning the ignition on and off several times; once in a while I need to cycle the headlights a few times too (not kidding).
Mine had a bad spell a month or so ago and now works fine again. But you never know.

IXLR8

Immobilizer code?

I have this remote that I push the button on in order to start my car, so I'm wondering what I'd do with an "immobilizer code" if I had it.

How many digits to the immobilizer code?

Kika

Take your registration to a dealer, they can look it up and give it to you, it should be 4 digits.

cy7878

4 digits used to de-activate the immoblizer and to re-train new remotes if you ever get a new one.

IXLR8

I'm new and unaware of this part of ownership.

Is the de-activation done with the on-off cycles with the ignition key? I've just lightly browsed over that info on-line.

Is the immobilizer code something that is supplied to the owner on a card as a few have mentioned; sort of like the radio security code?

I've also read that disconnecting the battery requires re-programming, yet my remote worked without any issues thereafter. I wish there was a manual explaining all the aspects of this feature of the car.

H.H.Chinn

A low battery in your remote will effect the range that the remote works. The four digit alarm code, not to be confused with the four digit radio code, if you don't already have it can be obtained at any dealership with your registration docs. That four digit code is used to reprogram and add additional remote key fobs. Note that you must reprogram every one of your existing key fobs in addition to any new ones that you add. The dealership can do this for you or you can follow precisely the steps required to program key fob thread.

944/951guy

Do you guys think reprograming my remote will do the job?

Last night I went to just see if it will work and it took me about 5-8 times for it to work the first time and then it took me 2-4 times to turn it off and the it would turn off and on alomst every first time I pressed it.

Rinty

Alex:

It's on a cardboard tag that's attached to the skinny key that comes with the car. But if you go to your local Porsche dealer, the service department can pull up the code off their database.

There are good threads on the site here on programming keys, but it's very difficult. I had to have my new 2 piece key / fob programmed at the local dealer last year, and, in the event, their senior tech ended up having to do it.

If your '95 is an early one, it may not have the immobilizer.

The activation of new keys is done with on/off cycles of the ignition key. You can do 4 keys at a time.

The bottom line is not to lose your keys, or it could cost you.

IXLR8

I never got a skinny key with the code, just two regular keys with the black plastic surround and silver Porsche emblem within it.

I'll soon find out how agreeable my local dealer is when it comes to asking for that code.

OK, I'm now. Are we programming the keys, the remote or both the keys and remote. I didn't know the key had a chip in it, if that is the case.


Is that the thread where it shows some 43 minute (or whatever) timeline and where you have to to certain things at certain times along it?

You mean someone with a spare key and that code card can drive off with my vehicle? I think its time to install my own self made immobilizer as a back-up to the OEM unit. Mind you, my motorcycles and car are either under my butt or very securely locked away. My 1995 is a late model. It does say Porsche Drive Block System on the rear quarter windows.

993/907

My two cents says "programming" the immobilizer won't do any good.
Try this: Turn ignition back on, press immobilizer, then turn off ignition. Maybe do it two or three times, then try to lock your car with the immobilizer.
If that doesn't do it, turn the igition on and off severl times; when you remove the key make sure you get a solid "snap" as the key is removed. Then try to lock your car with the immobilizer.
If that doesn't do it, close the car door and wait several minutes and try to lock your car with the immobilizer.
Try your spare key, it may make a better contact inside the keyway and lead to a more positive uncoupling when you remove the key.
My ignition switch will occasionally "cry" when I remove the key....not the chime sound, but a fading cry.
My immobilizer problems come and go. Right now working fine, but a month ago it did the same as yours. I think the trouble is somewhere in the ignition keyway.

Gordo

davesnothere

Couple points:

1) If your key remote locks or unlocks your call at all, then reprogamming won't do you any good. Reprogramming is typically just for adding new remotes.

2) You are programming the immobilizer unit in the car so that it recognizes your remotes. As others have said, you must "show" the immobilizer all of your remotes (not just new ones) when reprogramming. "Show" in this case meaning pressing the remote button when the immobilizer is in "learn" mode.

3) Getting the immobilizer into "learn" mode is a bit tricky, but certainly not 43 minutes worth of tricky. The procedures have been covered in threads on this site - you can even search on my username, I was involved in a few threads when I added a second remote to my car last year. The procedure can also be found in your manual.

4) If somebody is able to gain access to your car w/o tripping the alarm, and if they have a spare Porsche remote, and if they have the 4-digit keycode for your exact model, and if they could run through the reprogramming procedure w/o tripping the alarm or otherwise drawing attention to themselves, then they could drive off with your car. I dunno about you, but that's enough "if"s to let me sleep at night.

- Dave

Rinty

There are two types of keys: the one piece switchblade, and the two piece key / fob. The circuit board is inside the switchblade, and in the two piece, it's in the fob.

When you do the programming, you're programming the circuit board / transmitter to the DME (I think).

The timed sequence programming is for earlier 911's, I believe, but our cars have a bit of timing involved. The part that applies to our cars is under the heading: "Tuning Model '95 Remote Control Units."

Here is, perhaps, the best thread on the issue:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...made-easy.html

Theoretically, yes. But I think the usual way of stealing a 993 is with a flatbed, and then I assume the bad guys would just replace the DME with a new unit, matched to new keys.

I keep my 993 in its own separate garage stall, which has no man door to the outside. The garage door opener is kept turned off. The man door between the stall and the rest of the garage has a dead bolt, and sits in a reinforced frame. I can also place a 2 x 4 between the garage door top and the roof joists. It's just a bit of extra security.

IXLR8

Dave, I just noticed that that applies to the 94 model. Mine is a 95 so I'm lucky I don't have to go through all that.

Programming the Remote on P-Car Workshop