Corner weight checking
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Corner weight checking
Hi guys, I thought you might be interested in this. I managed to borrow a set of scales to check C.W. today . I have recently installed Bilstein H.D + H&R progressive Springs in mine & my mate has fully kitted his 3.2 out with elephant racings spring plates & bushes new shocks etc . Mine first and all within spec with an ideal 50% Cross. don`t laugh but it was a bit of a letdown as I was all geared up to fix things . leave it alone and hope Dave`s is out.
3.2 was out at 46%, Ripper, out with the spanners (there`s no point going to all this trouble and not fixing anything) 40 kg diff R to L rear and 12 kg diff front even though everything measured spot on. surprisingly little adjustment is required to even everything up 2mm here and 4 mm there . about an hour later and we had it at 49.8% Cross. pretty close without stuffing up the ride height too much. I can highly recomend doing this as if its OK at least you know and if not, pretty simple to fix.
3.2 was out at 46%, Ripper, out with the spanners (there`s no point going to all this trouble and not fixing anything) 40 kg diff R to L rear and 12 kg diff front even though everything measured spot on. surprisingly little adjustment is required to even everything up 2mm here and 4 mm there . about an hour later and we had it at 49.8% Cross. pretty close without stuffing up the ride height too much. I can highly recomend doing this as if its OK at least you know and if not, pretty simple to fix.
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Do I need to check again with sway bar disconnected ? its no big deal as i can easily borrow the scales again .
Thanks steve
#4
We used to,
disconnect sway bars.
rock each corner up/down to settle the springs back down after jacking it up on the scale. Best to drive it on to the scale if you have ramps.
Put the driver in and adjust.
disconnect sway bars.
rock each corner up/down to settle the springs back down after jacking it up on the scale. Best to drive it on to the scale if you have ramps.
Put the driver in and adjust.
#6
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Thread Starter
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#8
Race Car
For accuracy:
1: Disconnect sway bars
2: Center wheels on pads
3: If you have to jack and lower car onto pads - rock to settle suspension
4: Put driver in car (or equilivant weight)
As you have seen a couple of mm can make a big difference in the corner and cross weights.
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone for the info I will borrow the scales again and have another go.
It will be interesting to see what differences there will be.
Steve
It will be interesting to see what differences there will be.
Steve
#10
Pro
Also, forgot to mention, to remember to level the scale platform. The pads all need to be level with each other or the corner weights will be off. I've used asphalt floor tiles under scales when using my garage floor (if the scales didn't have adjustable feet). The floor itself isn't level enough. You will need a long straight edge that will hold a level and is long enough to reach from pad to pad
#11
Race Car
Also, forgot to mention, to remember to level the scale platform. The pads all need to be level with each other or the corner weights will be off. I've used asphalt floor tiles under scales when using my garage floor (if the scales didn't have adjustable feet). The floor itself isn't level enough. You will need a long straight edge that will hold a level and is long enough to reach from pad to pad
#12
Leveling stands are not that expensive and really help getting a perfectly level surface for doing a "good" job.
Get a really long level or a very straight piece of aluminum to lay your level on and check every direction so your surface is perfectly flat.
Good luck.
Get a really long level or a very straight piece of aluminum to lay your level on and check every direction so your surface is perfectly flat.
Good luck.
#13
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Lifetime Rennlist
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Did you do a pass, go for testdrift and then remeasure?
Also, how much fuel was in the tank?
Nice job though...want to get a set of scales for the shop!
Cheers,
Mike
Also, how much fuel was in the tank?
Nice job though...want to get a set of scales for the shop!
Cheers,
Mike
#14
Rennlist Member
Preaching to the choir here but, if you have adjustable droplinks, remember that swaybar arms should be close to horizontal and droplinks on both sides should have no pre-load on them. This should be done with driver's weight and and at least 1/2 tank of fuel. I save old brake rotors to load my weight in the car by placing them on the floorboard and, with a thick blanket, on the seat bottom...or you could use barbell weights. It really makes a difference with regard to handling.
#15
Rennlist Member
C'mon, no one keeps a dead body in a freezer to properly cornerweight?
I just picked up a set of leveling pads from a racer friend. Wondering why I waited so long to get some.
I just picked up a set of leveling pads from a racer friend. Wondering why I waited so long to get some.