TMc993

In the past month, I have begun to experience a "notchy" feel in my ignition switch and a couple of times have gotten to that panicky "Oh sh*t!" moment where the key will not turn at all and then finally turns in the cylinder and activates the starter.

Has anyone had this problem?

I have been considering:

1. Lightly coating the key with graphite, inserting it in the switch, and giving it a few turns back and forth.

2. Lightly buffing the key with a brass brush to take any rough edges off.

Is there any reason I should not do either?

I've read via "SEARCH" that replacing the ignition switch is a royal PITA, so want to avoid that if at all possible.

Any advice will be appreciated.

TIA,
Terry

IXLR8

Not with the ignition switch...at least that I can remember.

But I've noticed a world of difference in my door lock cylinders after spraying them with lock de-icer through the key hole. I will spray them for about 10 seconds, then insert my key and work it back and forth, then repeat.

Some lock de-icers contain dry lubricants that remain after the alcohol has evaporated. If not, buy a spray in lock lubricant which is basically a graphite with a carrier that evaporates.

Place a rag under the lock as it will leak for a few minutes.

IXLR8

What I use...

TMc993

Thanks Alex,

I'm concerned about spraying a liquid into a switch with electrics attached to it, so I'll look a little further.

Terry

mongrelcat

Maybe just try compressed air to start?

CalvinC4S

"and a couple of times have gotten to that panicky "Oh sh*t!" moment where the key will not turn at all"

Sure it isn't the steering lock? Some times this happens when there is tension on the steering wheel.

TMc993

I should have stated that it definitely is not the steering lock. Both times the "oh sh*t" moment happened, the car was on flat ground with the steering wheel centered and no binding on the lock.

Thanks for the response,
T

IXLR8

As expected, the lock cylinder and switch are two separate units.

If you are concerned, remove the switch portion and then spray the lock cylinder as much as you want. Finish off with a dry lubricant.

You'll be amazed how smoothly it works.

Pickled Piper

Hi,

i had this issue. The switch actually wouldn't turn to start the car. There was no warning, notchiness etc. I was on a trackday and about to go out onto the circuit with an instructor. We spent ages trying to wigggle the steering wheel and get it started but with no success. In the end I called the AA. The mechanic fiddled with the lock using a tiny jewellers screwdriver, depressed a lever and got the key turned and the car started. I couldn't take the key out as I would have had the same issue again. The fix got me home.

The permanent fix was a new item 18 on the diagram above. It was ordered directly from Porsche in Germany using the vehicle VIN. The lock matched the original key so I still have one key that can unlock the doors and start the car.

You probably have the same failure on the way. You may want to investigate getting a new item 18 before you get stranded.

pp

e9stibi

I just bring this one up again as I had a very similar issues. I am on a track weekend and the starter did not crank from one second to the other. We went to starter relay and switched it with one of the other relays of the similar type and with the next starting attempt, it started fine. When I went out for the last session the following day, it did not start again. I checked the relay that was supposedly bad at the relay spot for the signal horn (same relay) and it worked. Than we started measuring the voltage across the starter relay pins and found the that the relay coil got 12 volts but the pin 30 (switched 12V?) did not show any voltage which it should to crank the starter. We suspected an ignition switch issue and when I tried to start the car again it started (and 3 times after that) ... Too bad that I did not have the wiring diagrams with me to check. Let's see what it does tomorrow but such a sporadic issue needs a resolution.

Mechanically, the switch is working as it should when I turn the key. I would like to know if you would agree with me that the ignition switch as the problem. Which parts do I need to replace it? Is there a good DIY?

Thanks,

deekay911

@e9stibi - Sounds like the electrical part of the switch is bad. I changed mine a few weeks back because of battery drain issues (the radio was getting power even when the key was out) - it fixed the issue immediately. It was a $70 part and about an hour and a half to do it - not hard but a bit fiddly. Here is the DIY I found to help me:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...on-switch.html

Rdelvalle

I had the same problem with mine. the first time I had to play with it for a while and then it moved. The second time I was at my house so I left it stuck and squirted Hilco Lube (Hill #5035). I worked perfectly. The key turned real smooth. It has been working real smooth for months. I do keep the sptay in the trunk compartment just in case. The electronics and the mechanical system are isolated. So if you squirt a lubricant in the key hole it will not reach the electronics. Anyway the Hilco is for cleaning electronics also so it does not matter.

________________________________________________________________________ _____________

1997 Cab Arctic Silver, Targa Wheels 40K mi

Rinty

I spray Miracle Mist, a silicone based lube that my locksmith uses, right into the ignition switch. No issues.

I use this stuff on all my locks, but it does not seem to be available anymore.

e9stibi

Thanks for all the replies. It worked today at the track and I got home but ... after I cleaned the car from track duty in my driveway it passed out on me again. After my friends got me push started I made it into the garage. Interestingly enough, it started normally when I tried after I was in the garage. It appears to be one of those sporadic issues.

Just a clarification: The key moves absolutely smoothly. Does this mean that I can rule out a mechanical issue? Would the spray help here, too? I have never seen an ignition switch but I think there must be a cylinder that moves as soon as the correct key is inserted and than moves across contacts in the electrical piece depending on key position.

Any more thoughts? I will check the wiring diagrams to really understand what you happen at the starter relay, in particular the switched 12V side that goes to the starter solenoid.

e9stibi

Update: I checked the wiring diagrams and understand the system that I can troubleshoot more effectively the next time:

- The coil of the start relay R61 gets the 12 V from the DME unit (I have M530 which is the Alarm System option). We measured 12 V at the pin 56? (hard to read on drawing) of the start relay which should rule out a DME issue
- The power side of the relay that drives the starter solenoid gets the 12V from the ignition switch (position III) and according to the mechanic at the track, we did not get the 12V here which leads to the conclusion that something is not connecting when the ignition key is in position III. As cable issues are not likely in the presence of moving parts like the ignition key, I assume that the electrical part of the key is broken.

When the car does not start the next time, I can do some basic tests to confirm. With the assumed problem, I should be able to start the car by putting 12 V on the start relay pin 87? (again, hard to read).

Thanks again for the help. Other experiences and opinions are always welcome.