MDamen

I had the same problem. I squirted a healthy dose of brake cleaner into the lock cylinder followed by a dose of Kroil. It can get messy. Dry lubricant would prbably work well also. It has been several months and I haven't had any issues. The electricalpart is isolated from the mechanical part so I don't think there are any issues of fluid contamination.

cpc993

did anyone find a soulution to this problem? Shooting break clean in the ignition switch?

TMc993

I finally figured out that my key works better when inserted oriented one way than it does the other...Apparently, the ignition lock/key combination have worn in a manner that makes the one orientation fit better than the other. It will fail eventually, but I'll just wait until that happens.

Terry

993/907

Struggled with same problem for a long time, finally had to break down and install new ignition keyway and steering wheel lock.

Waited too long and it cost me a new immobilizer module, seems the switch was sending errant signals or something and blew it out.

16 year old car had only about 75k miles, but it was mostly short trips, so lots of key action wore the keyway down.

Might save you a little to replace it sooner than later.

Gordo

cpc993

thanks I guess ill look for a new ignition switch. I would like to keep the same keys thoough.

993/907

Some terminology I learned during this:

The "ignition switch" is located on the back of what I call the keyway (closer to the firewall)....the wires connect to it.
I had to replace the keyway, which must be ordered from the factory along with the steering wheel lock....PITA job which I had the dealer do, about 4 hours labor.

The ignition switch is No. 18 on Alex's diagram, the keyway/steering wheel lock is No. 19

Gordo