Ignition Switch Done Gone Got Funky
#16
I had the same problem. I squirted a healthy dose of brake cleaner into the lock cylinder followed by a dose of Kroil. It can get messy. Dry lubricant would prbably work well also. It has been several months and I haven't had any issues. The electricalpart is isolated from the mechanical part so I don't think there are any issues of fluid contamination.
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Terry
#19
Struggled with same problem for a long time, finally had to break down and install new ignition keyway and steering wheel lock.
Waited too long and it cost me a new immobilizer module, seems the switch was sending errant signals or something and blew it out.
16 year old car had only about 75k miles, but it was mostly short trips, so lots of key action wore the keyway down.
Might save you a little to replace it sooner than later.
Gordo
Waited too long and it cost me a new immobilizer module, seems the switch was sending errant signals or something and blew it out.
16 year old car had only about 75k miles, but it was mostly short trips, so lots of key action wore the keyway down.
Might save you a little to replace it sooner than later.
Gordo
#21
Some terminology I learned during this:
The "ignition switch" is located on the back of what I call the keyway (closer to the firewall)....the wires connect to it.
I had to replace the keyway, which must be ordered from the factory along with the steering wheel lock....PITA job which I had the dealer do, about 4 hours labor.
The ignition switch is No. 18 on Alex's diagram, the keyway/steering wheel lock is No. 19
Gordo
The "ignition switch" is located on the back of what I call the keyway (closer to the firewall)....the wires connect to it.
I had to replace the keyway, which must be ordered from the factory along with the steering wheel lock....PITA job which I had the dealer do, about 4 hours labor.
The ignition switch is No. 18 on Alex's diagram, the keyway/steering wheel lock is No. 19
Gordo