Suspension Advice - H&R Springs/Bilstein HD (Yes, I've searched...)
01-30-2010 | 11:54 AM
#17
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,102
Likes: 64
Ian,
The one thing I forgot to mention is you cannot get 2 1/2 deg neg camber with the stock rear upper mounts, hence my decision to install ERP billet uppers so I can go past 1 3/4 neg deg maximum factory for a combo set up at 2 1/2 neg deg or go to over 3 deg neg if I want a full track set up.
The other benefit is it really ties the top of the rear suspension to the chassis much better than the stock set up.
Joel
The one thing I forgot to mention is you cannot get 2 1/2 deg neg camber with the stock rear upper mounts, hence my decision to install ERP billet uppers so I can go past 1 3/4 neg deg maximum factory for a combo set up at 2 1/2 neg deg or go to over 3 deg neg if I want a full track set up.
The other benefit is it really ties the top of the rear suspension to the chassis much better than the stock set up.
Joel
01-30-2010 | 02:58 PM
#18
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,031
Likes: 5
From: San Diego, CA
He stated that with my OEM upper shock mounts and the new suspension parts installed, he could not get my rear suspension to go more than 1 3/4 deg neg so I bought rear ERP billet upper's which are fully adjustable camber plates allowing for full range of camber and the additional benefit of being stiffer/stronger than the OEM mounts.
It works for me and I am glad your's works for you.
Cheers,
Joel
01-30-2010 | 08:36 PM
#20
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,797
Likes: 16
From: Delaware
I officially own the car now. I bought it from Rennlister UserA this afternoon as we drove around in a pounding snow storm to find a notary. It's sitting at the shop waiting for RS sway bars and drop links and a fresh corner balancing and alignment.
I'm absolutely stoked; one of 3714 worldwide and my dream car, ALL MINE. MINE. Let's hope I don't put it into a tire wall.
02-01-2010 | 10:17 AM
#22
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,797
Likes: 16
From: Delaware
Just go drive the car. See how it works for you. If it rolls to much, you probably need sway bars. I agree with Steve Weiner:
1. Go M030 RoW, 22mm front, 993 TT M030 RoW rear 21 mm (pretty cheap)
2. 993 RS bars, 23mm front, 20mm rear, adjustable, 5 way front, 3 way rear.
I have the TRG 25mm front and 22mm rear, the front is too bloody stiff...I can only run it at full soft.
There are lots of track guys running Bilstein HD and H&R. It may not be the super trick set up, but it works.
With all the money you have saved consider doing this:
1. Get a G2X or Traqmate
2. Get some good tires
3. Hire a coach
1. Go M030 RoW, 22mm front, 993 TT M030 RoW rear 21 mm (pretty cheap)
2. 993 RS bars, 23mm front, 20mm rear, adjustable, 5 way front, 3 way rear.
I have the TRG 25mm front and 22mm rear, the front is too bloody stiff...I can only run it at full soft.
There are lots of track guys running Bilstein HD and H&R. It may not be the super trick set up, but it works.
With all the money you have saved consider doing this:
1. Get a G2X or Traqmate
2. Get some good tires
3. Hire a coach
Thanks!
02-01-2010 | 12:35 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 9,632
Likes: 543
From: Solana Beach, CA
Go get them...
Mr. Bonus aka Ian,
Just get out there...and when you make a change to the car, make one at a time so you can measure the performance increase, or decrease as the case may be. If you don't have significant seat time, you wont be able to push the car to the level where the changes(s) will become apparent. Go for it, drive it like you stole it! Good luck and welcome to the Club!
Just get out there...and when you make a change to the car, make one at a time so you can measure the performance increase, or decrease as the case may be. If you don't have significant seat time, you wont be able to push the car to the level where the changes(s) will become apparent. Go for it, drive it like you stole it! Good luck and welcome to the Club!
02-01-2010 | 12:48 PM
#24
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,797
Likes: 16
From: Delaware
Mr. Bonus aka Ian,
Just get out there...and when you make a change to the car, make one at a time so you can measure the performance increase, or decrease as the case may be. If you don't have significant seat time, you wont be able to push the car to the level where the changes(s) will become apparent. Go for it, drive it like you stole it! Good luck and welcome to the Club!
Just get out there...and when you make a change to the car, make one at a time so you can measure the performance increase, or decrease as the case may be. If you don't have significant seat time, you wont be able to push the car to the level where the changes(s) will become apparent. Go for it, drive it like you stole it! Good luck and welcome to the Club!
My only concerns are that the current suspension might have deficiencies related to geometry that may cause me mechanical issues like end links breaking prematurely or other suspension wear. I want these issues rectified prior to doing my first event in spring.
Thanks again, Martin!
02-01-2010 | 04:27 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 25,917
Likes: 821
From: www.rlsafespace.com
I have a HD/H&R setup, with RS links and Turbo Sways at RS height and it works quite well. The car is quite neutral (225F, 265R on 18's) and quite nimble. Frankly I am quite pleased with it. I am contemplating going with PSS10's this spring as I'm doing the RS front carriers, Rennline adjustable camber plates and three point strut brace. The only reason I'm doing the PSS10's is that I figure I'm doing the other upgrades so I might as well... Whether I "need" it or not is a whole other story.
02-01-2010 | 06:08 PM
#26
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,797
Likes: 16
From: Delaware
I have a HD/H&R setup, with RS links and Turbo Sways at RS height and it works quite well. The car is quite neutral (225F, 265R on 18's) and quite nimble. Frankly I am quite pleased with it. I am contemplating going with PSS10's this spring as I'm doing the RS front carriers, Rennline adjustable camber plates and three point strut brace. The only reason I'm doing the PSS10's is that I figure I'm doing the other upgrades so I might as well... Whether I "need" it or not is a whole other story.
02-01-2010 | 06:42 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,960
Likes: 33
From: Baltimore, Md
It doesn't really matter which drop links you have installed if they're installed correctly. If i remember correctly the H&R springs are close to RS ride height. You might want to consider installing the RS drop links as this drops the bar below a-arm. If the bar is above the arm and your suspension gets completely compressed it may rub on the a-arm and cause problems. I had my RS sway bar shear off at VIR when I was running a H&R setup.
Bar with RS links-
Bar with RS links-
02-01-2010 | 06:45 PM
#28
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,797
Likes: 16
From: Delaware
It doesn't really matter which drop links you have installed if they're installed correctly. If i remember correctly the H&R springs are close to RS ride height. You might want to consider installing the RS drop links as this drops the bar below a-arm. If the bar is above the arm and your suspension gets completely compressed it may rub on the a-arm and cause problems. I had my RS sway bar shear off at VIR when I was running a H&R setup.
