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Old 11-04-2009, 11:14 AM
  #16  
Kein_Ersatz
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Originally Posted by bbs993tt
How do you do that? Is it easy to put back in place?
At the lower corners, I just get a finger nail under the glass side edge and pull it up. It seems to come out very easily, maybe too easily

At the top of the rear window on both sides, it is under the third brake light bar, so I pull it up on both sides to that point and let it lay on the window for a day or so (in garage) to allow the channel to dry out (after I blow out most of the water collecting in there).

I then snap / push it back in place with my fingers when dry. The seal / trim gasket will stretch, so it takes a little shifting to get all the gasket / trim to snap and lay flat in the full channel. I start from the top on both sides and meet in the middle of the bottom of the window. That usually results in some "extra" gasket (humped up) in the middle. I then work backwards out from the middle to the corners and the excess works it way back out. The gasket / trim seems very elastic.

Then I usually (wearing a glove) push really hard with my thumb to snap the gasket into the channel all along the gasket on both sides. It kind of goes concave when it snaps in.

I will now explore the front windshield to see how it is done. I have noticed water being blown out from under the gasket in the past. YMMV
Old 11-04-2009, 12:35 PM
  #17  
neunneundrei
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Yup - unforunately happened on my car as well - rust in bottom corners of both front and rear windshields.

Porsche has paid for this fix in the past. When I got my car a few years ago I investigated and found that several dealers in the U.S. (I'm in Canada) had got Porsche to pay for the repair as it was a factory defect. I managed to get mine repaired by Porsche within 2 months of the rust warrantly expiring.

Not sure if it's possible - but perhaps finding a dealer willing to fight PCNA to get them to pay for it (or some of it) may be helpful.
Old 11-04-2009, 12:48 PM
  #18  
groovzilla
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i was told that the front windshield lower rust problem on 993 and 964 was due to installer cutting thru the paint while removing old windshield seal when replacement was installed...

*seeing the huge amount of rust on this posters car is shocking and i don't think i've ever seen this amount of rust before...most cars just have the lower front windshield rust

i have one small rust area in my lower front windshield by the drivers mirror,,,it is not rusted thru just surface bubble.

the guy who will be repairing it quoted me $650 plus $150 to remove/replace windshield...this includes the prep and paint...he is excellent painter who can blend any metallic paint and that is the key when repairing a metallic color car...

painters who are not good at blending want to spray the entire top portion of the car when doing this repair and it gets up into the $2000 range.

*i've seen excellent painters spot paint tiny areas on hoods and doors on metallic cars...they use an airbrush and it looks perfect when finished.
Old 11-05-2009, 04:57 PM
  #19  
SC2993
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Here are the first few photos before removing the rust.
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Old 11-05-2009, 05:16 PM
  #20  
AOW162435
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Originally Posted by groovzilla
i have one small rust area....it is not rusted thru just surface bubble.
William,
Think 'iceberg'...


Andreas
Old 11-05-2009, 05:39 PM
  #21  
SC2993
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The rust bubbles around my windows were not visible about 1 year ago. I have been very diligent in keeping the area as dry as possible when washing the car, masking off the window when washing, not getting too much water at the window area, blowing the area out after washing etc. etc... The rust just began to spread and really accelerated in the last 6 months. I was not even aware of any corrosion around the opposite side and the upper part of the rear window until the window as removed.

Pay me now or pay me more later..................this is part of owning a 15 year old Porsche.
Old 11-05-2009, 05:48 PM
  #22  
Wilder
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Originally Posted by AOW162435
I insert small, sharpened pieces of wood under each of the four corners after washing in order to allow water to evacuate
Your level of detail and care never seizes to amaze me.
Old 10-02-2010, 05:11 PM
  #23  
Paul K
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All:

Would it be feasible/possible to fill the gap between the body and windshield seal with silicone? I just dealt with a small rust spot in the lower corner of my windshield. Then washed the car & pulled back the seal. Lots of water came out. Seems as though if there is no way for the water to drain, either the seal must be pulled back each time the car gets wet to allow the water to escape, or the gap needs to be eliminated.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Paul.
Old 10-02-2010, 05:33 PM
  #24  
mongrelcat
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Originally Posted by Paul K
Thoughts?
It's a ****-poor design for a car that had been in development for decades AND cost x3-x4 the average at the time it sold new.
Old 10-02-2010, 06:25 PM
  #25  
ble2011
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This is scary. I purposely bought a vehicle from TX thinking anything I get around here in the Midwest would surely have some hidden rust. I just hope mine doesn't. Going with the suggestion from AOW162435, how about fitting small "drain channels" permanently under the trim in the bottom of the lower corners? I'm the last one to "cobble" anything as I always want to trust the engineering of a vehicle, but with a design flaw, it's time to be creative. Obviously, these would have to be extremely small, almost hidden, but just enough to allow water to seep out. Maybe a small plastic wire the diameter of a pin pressed under the trim in the bottom corners?
Old 10-02-2010, 07:55 PM
  #26  
Paul K
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Originally Posted by ble2011
Maybe a small plastic wire the diameter of a pin pressed under the trim in the bottom corners?
Problem is, the deepest part of the gap is below that, so some water would still be trapped.

Hence my suggestion of filling the whole gap with silicone.

Only issue I can see is removing all that silicone when installing a new windshield.
Old 10-03-2010, 11:47 PM
  #27  
berni29
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Hi There

As a previous poster said it is likely that a previous windshield fitter has scratched the finish when cleaning the old gunk off and not repainted before fitting the new screen. Then the rust starts on the scuttle under the screen. Also the outside rubber seal can rub the paint away if the screen moves and start surface rust there. It is not Porsches fault as such.

As far as sealing around the screen and keeping water out, I sprayed a good amount of Valvoline Tectyl ML into the gaps around my front and rear screens. ML is like a penetrating rust preventer that then cures to a waxy finish that does not move.

I bet if you have an original front or rear screen then you will not have rust. I equally reckon that if you have either replaced in the past then there is a reasonable chance that you will be dealing with rust at some point unless the area was properly painted before the new screen was fitted. Fat chance of that unless it was a specific instruction and a paid for activity.

By the way in my car which is a 94 with 185k on the clock and has been outside all it's life in the UK has no rear screen issues at all (original screen) and some minor front screen surface rust (replacement front screen).

My screen will be coming out soon and will have the surround and scuttle properly treated and painted before refitting.

Berni

Last edited by berni29; 10-03-2010 at 11:50 PM. Reason: Spelling
Old 10-04-2010, 12:43 AM
  #28  
alcanada
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This is a very timely discussion since I just took my 95 to a body shop this weekend to get an estimate for repairing a very small rust spot on the frame at the bottom corner of the rear window. The body shop guy told be he has to take the rear window out to do a good job. Am I correct from reading the posts that I cannot get a rear seal for window unless I buy a new rear windshield????

Although rust is showing on one corner only, I might ask them to somehow protect the other corner too, maybe epoxy paint? Any suggestions what can be applied on top of the paint to provide a better rust protection?. I can't avoid the water living in the Northwest and drying the corners by pulling the rubber seals everytime is PIA.
Old 10-04-2010, 03:06 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Paul K
All:

Would it be feasible/possible to fill the gap between the body and windshield seal with silicone? I just dealt with a small rust spot in the lower corner of my windshield. Then washed the car & pulled back the seal. Lots of water came out. Seems as though if there is no way for the water to drain, either the seal must be pulled back each time the car gets wet to allow the water to escape, or the gap needs to be eliminated.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Paul.
The Boys are right, the frame needs to be painted / protected first.

I use a black windscreen sealer called 'ezycaulk'. It's a pretty standard window sealer for cars. It is very easily removed when dry and if your window man puts enough of it in when he installs the screen, there's nowhere for the water to get into.

I do my own screens and use this stuff. no rust problems.
Be warned, very messy stuff when wet. A little bit goes a very long way. Best to leave it till the next day to scrape off what squeezes out of the seal. I use a piece of soft plastic and a rag with some mineral turps on it.

Old 10-04-2010, 11:36 AM
  #30  
ppressle
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Yes, you can get new seals. There are 3 seals I believe. The main inner seal, the outer decorative seal and then the nylon portion attached to the glass. You can last, nylon seal is only available attached to the window though. The nylon on the bottom corners of my rear window had cracked and broken off and the outer seal was peeling up.

Pete


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