Window Rust
#31
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#32
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Yes, you can get new seals. There are 3 seals I believe. The main inner seal, the outer decorative seal and then the nylon portion attached to the glass. You can last, nylon seal is only available attached to the window though.
Anthony
#33
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Looks like good stuff, as long as it does no harm to the pain.. time to go shopping.
#34
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#36
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I had my rust addressed and paint work done while the windshield was being replaced.
I just want to make sure it doesn't happen again.
#37
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I would pull the glass and see what shape it is in. Glass is not cheap and removing it should not damage the nylon channel.
If the nylon is broken on the glass it will be readily apparent. In my case, the outer trim would not stay down on the bottom corner since the nylon was broken.
The most important part was mentioned earlier. Make sure that the window guy primers any scratches in the paint to prevent more rust before reinstalling.
If the nylon is broken on the glass it will be readily apparent. In my case, the outer trim would not stay down on the bottom corner since the nylon was broken.
The most important part was mentioned earlier. Make sure that the window guy primers any scratches in the paint to prevent more rust before reinstalling.
#38
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Never too late to add this It stops the moisture from touching the metal.
I learned this trick from working on communication systems on a cruise ship. It works.
#40
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I had rust in the windshield lower corners of my '95 coupe as well, no bubbles, just a slight discoloration I noticed at the edge of the gasket one day. My car was in Vegas pretty much all it's life, bodyshop said the gaskets had shrunk from the dry desert heat causing the leak. I got three estimates. To do it right - New O.E.M. windshield ($1000 plus $300 installation), gaskets, paint entire top/center of car plus metal work = $6K... (West coast prices ...) Oh, and the new windshield was installed too high causing the outer gasket to fold under into the gap between the cowl and the glass. Had to be pulled, new gasket, re-installed by someone who actually knew 993's. Now it's perfect.
Last edited by JPP; 10-06-2010 at 12:43 PM. Reason: clarification
#42
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I'm sure the shop rates where you live will be lower than CA. Decent full glass-out repaints seem to run in the $10-12K range. The bodyshop/auto repair industry here is ridiculously high and seems to have no relationship to changing economic conditions or employment numbers ...
#43
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In an effort to nip this suggestion in the bud, please adhere to this advise:
Never use silicone RTV anywhere near bodywork!!!!
Silicone sets with the release of acetic acid: since acid rots steel faster than water, unless you want larger holes in your car, keep your RTV in the cupboard for making emergency gaskets on the lawnmower engine....
If you do want to bond or seal bodywork only use a polyurethane based adhesive like Tiger Seal.
Never use silicone RTV anywhere near bodywork!!!!
Silicone sets with the release of acetic acid: since acid rots steel faster than water, unless you want larger holes in your car, keep your RTV in the cupboard for making emergency gaskets on the lawnmower engine....
If you do want to bond or seal bodywork only use a polyurethane based adhesive like Tiger Seal.
#44
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I'm sure the shop rates where you live will be lower than CA. Decent full glass-out repaints seem to run in the $10-12K range. The bodyshop/auto repair industry here is ridiculously high and seems to have no relationship to changing economic conditions or employment numbers ...
If the situation is anything like the UK, I would guess that this year most shops are now paying more for rent, tax, energy & wages than they were last year; materials prices to us have increased by 20% in the last 12 months and most suppliers have slashed credit limits by more than 75%, forcing businesses to borrow more. I think the fact that the owners have not increased prices is a far better indication of their efforts to respond to the changing conditions.
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#45
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As I also have a older Porsche ('67) that has periods of rust, I have found a great (and very inexpensive) product that stops rust (yes it really does). It is called Rust Converter (I know this sounds like Snake Oil) and usually can be found at your local Auto Zone, etc. It is a milky substance that you paint on the offending rust. After about 10 minutes, it turns to a black hard substance, that can be painted if desired.
I have used this on various parts of the car and have not seen any reoccurances in over 3 years.
I have used this on various parts of the car and have not seen any reoccurances in over 3 years.