Stalling when stoping
I am having a problem with stalling when I come to a stop. If I down shift, most times it will continue to run. but if I just come to a comlete stop in N or clutch engagged. The car shuts off.
I just recently bought the car and it is suppose to have a recently new clutch, RS flywheel and Fester III exhaust.
Any Ideas?
I just recently bought the car and it is suppose to have a recently new clutch, RS flywheel and Fester III exhaust.
Any Ideas?
I am having a problem with stalling when I come to a stop. If I down shift, most times it will continue to run. but if I just come to a comlete stop in N or clutch engagged. The car shuts off.
I just recently bought the car and it is suppose to have a recently new clutch, RS flywheel and Fester III exhaust.
Any Ideas?
I just recently bought the car and it is suppose to have a recently new clutch, RS flywheel and Fester III exhaust.
Any Ideas?
If your 993 is a '95, it's very common to experience stalling with a LWF. Is this an ex-Rennlister's car?
BTW - it's 'Fister'...
Andreas
If you have 95 with LWF, I've been told you need to drive it just a bit differently. The issue is that since the flywheel is lighter, it revs up faster (good) and revs down faster (not always good). If you push in the clutch as you come to a stop from 3k RPMs or something, for example, the revs come down too fast for the computer to catch it before a stall.
So what I've been told, and seems to be working (I just purchased a RL 95 with LWF as well), is brake longer before putting in the clutch, on the order of 1-1.5k RPMs, THEN engage the clutch. Alternatively, put in the clutch whenever, but keep the revs coming down a bit slower via heel/toe.
I have the Steve W chip in mine, which apparently helps, but bottom line is if you put in the clutch at 3-4k, you are going to stall it. You adjust, though I'm still concerned if in an accident avoidance situation, i.e., full hard braking, avoid, accelerate to get out of way of something, would I stall and be screwed...hmm...
Fun on the track though.
So what I've been told, and seems to be working (I just purchased a RL 95 with LWF as well), is brake longer before putting in the clutch, on the order of 1-1.5k RPMs, THEN engage the clutch. Alternatively, put in the clutch whenever, but keep the revs coming down a bit slower via heel/toe.
I have the Steve W chip in mine, which apparently helps, but bottom line is if you put in the clutch at 3-4k, you are going to stall it. You adjust, though I'm still concerned if in an accident avoidance situation, i.e., full hard braking, avoid, accelerate to get out of way of something, would I stall and be screwed...hmm...
Fun on the track though.
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I am sorry that I am not able to help you with a 95 car. I recently had a LWF installed on my RUF and it took a few hundred miles for the ECU to adjust. Your car is different.
However, if you do a search (a frustrating experience of late), you should be able to find some solutions. Steve Weiner is an excellent resource too, and sells a chip that helps with the stalling. He responds often in this board and will definitely take your call.
Good luck and report back.
However, if you do a search (a frustrating experience of late), you should be able to find some solutions. Steve Weiner is an excellent resource too, and sells a chip that helps with the stalling. He responds often in this board and will definitely take your call.
Good luck and report back.
I do not believe the 95's will "learn" like the obd II cars. I also have the LWF and a Steve Weiner chip; Steve told me the chip will not help the stalling issue, just change my habits like JPS said. However, cleaning and rising the idle on the ISV did help. Mine stalls maybe 2-3 times per year now. I think the write-up on raising the idle is on p-car.com. May be here somewhere also. I did about 4 years ago so it is beyond my ability to recall with accuracy.



