matt777

I'm starting to think about doing the clutch on my 71k '95. It doesn't release properly when decelerating and I've changed out the slave already. It may just be the splines but considering the mileage I'll just change it. No LWF for me though. I've already got another temperamental noisy car on the go. So, while I'm in there, I thought I would do the RMS which leaks and perhaps the 1st/2nd syncro. I think one of the gearbox side cover gaskets is weeping too. How difficult is this job? I've had a few gearboxes apart and they generally seem simple enough. Thanks.

ps I'm going to try and drop the tranny only using my 4 post lift. Is this wise?

Rinty

Matt:

I can't answer your questions, but if your car has the non fixed 2nd gear, have you considered replacing it with a lower cluster?

matt777

Hi Rinty. Do you mean a full regear or just change second? I'm not into spending a third of the car's value on the regear upgrade although it does sound intriguing. I just thought that since the 1/2 syncro gets used heavily it would be a good "while you were in there" replacement item. Everything is okay now but if I'm going to keep the car it seems to make sense right now. However, if I can't do it myself I'll just pass on this item. I'm still trying to figure out if the DMF is a must replace item or if it can be reground. I think I asked this before and will have to check the archives.

Rinty

I meant to just change second, assuming you have the early 95 gearbox. The main problem with the /20 is the split between 1st and 2nd, and if an owner were able to do the work himself, the upgrade might be attractive.

chris walrod

its not difficult given some gbx tools from Porsche are sourced. However it is pricey for 1/2 syncros. Gasket/seal kit is around a hundred bucks. If you do get it apart, I can walk you through it. Somewhere I have a disk with a bunch of images from a G64 I rebuilt some time ago.

chris walrod

also, if its just gear release issues you are having, I would bet syncros are ok, just a rusty input shaft spline

matt777

Special tools are required? I thought I saw the 1/2 syncro for between $150 and $200 but I could be wrong on that. Perhaps inspection of the teeth could tell me if it is worn significantly. I hope to put alot more miles on this car. Pics might come in handy because I don't remember seeing much DIY stuff around.

That is what I have heard although I have never seen this happen with other cars. I just hope that what I find is conclusive (and cheap to fix) because the car is a pain to drive now. A rusty shaft I can fix.

chris walrod

With the car off, in gear, clutch in, start the car -- does it feel like it wants to lurch forward a little?

matt777

I'll double check but I don't think so. The clutch feels fine otherwise.

Chris Prack

Special tools are required. This is not an easy job IMO. Not for a weekend wrench. I have repaired and rebuilt/regeared many of these transmissions.

The 1st/2nd op sleeve is a big pain in the ***. And I promise you if you have not done this before you will lose at least one of the ***** that go in it. When the sleeve pops off the hub the strong little springs inside shoot the ***** out like a bb gun. I keep new replacement ***** and springs in my tool box since it still happens to me on occasion and I have experience. Getting the op sleeve back together is another matter. Stabbed fingers and cussing are the norm.

If you are doing your own clutch, take it to a Porsche trans guy while it's out and get it back done. This you will not regret.

Best of luck.

Chris Prack

Special tools are required. This is not an easy job IMO. Not for a weekend wrench. I have repaired and rebuilt/regeared many of these transmissions.

The 1st/2nd op sleeve is a big pain in the ***. And I promise you if you have not done this before you will lose at least one of the ***** that go in it. When the sleeve pops off the hub the strong little springs inside shoot the ***** out like a bb gun. I keep new replacement ***** and springs in my tool box since it still happens to me on occasion and I have experience. Getting the op sleeve back together is another matter. Stabbed fingers and cussing are the norm.

If you are doing your own clutch, take it to a Porsche trans guy while it's out and get it back done. This you will not regret.

Best of luck.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

I'd wholeheartedly concur,.....the G50 is not DIY-friendly and you need the tools and experience to ensure a successful outcome.

chris walrod

Plus 1 ! This part is the most difficult of the entire job. I have assembled the operating sleeve chicklets and ***** in a zip lock bag -- just to keep the jettisoned parts nearby

matt777

well I guess that answers my question. If the splines are obviously corroded and the clutch looks good I might just replace the RMS and get another year out of it as I should drop the whole works next winter (2010/11) for more major work. We'll see.

matt777

No it doesn't. It's getting to the point that I don't like driving it now. When I'm decelerating and push the clutch in the rpms drop very slow. I can even hit the throttle sometimes and the revs pick up (clutch in). It is obviously dragging but only on decel. It's like the disc is sticking/thrusting towards to the flywheel / not sliding away from the flywheel. The clutch really seems fine otherwise. I'm very curious as to what I will find.