What does New RS suspension Cost?
#2
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Bump steer kit (EVO uprights and tie rods): $1900
Front bushings: $300 - (estimate)
Rear control arms (full set of RS new parts): $2000
Sway bars: $1500
Coilovers (RS shocks and springs are about the same price): $3000
If you DIY, you may need help with the bump steer kit (pressing bearings) - figure about $100 and you will definitley need a good corner balancing and alignment $400
If you have somebody else do it, expect at least $3000, maybe $4000.
Also consider the motor mounts $400 will hold the engine in place better during acceleration and hard cornering. Then, you should probably get the short shift kit ($400) and the shifter ($300) to go along. You will need the RS aerokit (wing $700-aftermarket, splitters $800, skirts $1100) to match the shifter. Now, it looks like an RS, but, it is really a lead sled - so, you will need the RS engine kit $15,000 and a rebuild $10,000. Now, all that is missing is the transmission $10,000. We forgot brakes at $2,000 to match the body and you will absolutely need the Speedline wheels at $5,000 to tie it all together.
Bob
#5
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Bill V. will chime in with a detailed list or corrections/additions as necessary. Also note, there are several pieces that are authentic to an RS suspension that may not be needed for nearly all people.
Bump steer kit (EVO uprights and tie rods): $1900
Front bushings: $300 - (estimate)
Rear control arms (full set of RS new parts): $2000
Sway bars: $1500
Coilovers (RS shocks and springs are about the same price): $3000
If you DIY, you may need help with the bump steer kit (pressing bearings) - figure about $100 and you will definitley need a good corner balancing and alignment $400
If you have somebody else do it, expect at least $3000, maybe $4000.
Also consider the motor mounts $400 will hold the engine in place better during acceleration and hard cornering. Then, you should probably get the short shift kit ($400) and the shifter ($300) to go along. You will need the RS aerokit (wing $700-aftermarket, splitters $800, skirts $1100) to match the shifter. Now, it looks like an RS, but, it is really a lead sled - so, you will need the RS engine kit $15,000 and a rebuild $10,000. Now, all that is missing is the transmission $10,000. We forgot brakes at $2,000 to match the body and you will absolutely need the Speedline wheels at $5,000 to tie it all together.
Bob
Bump steer kit (EVO uprights and tie rods): $1900
Front bushings: $300 - (estimate)
Rear control arms (full set of RS new parts): $2000
Sway bars: $1500
Coilovers (RS shocks and springs are about the same price): $3000
If you DIY, you may need help with the bump steer kit (pressing bearings) - figure about $100 and you will definitley need a good corner balancing and alignment $400
If you have somebody else do it, expect at least $3000, maybe $4000.
Also consider the motor mounts $400 will hold the engine in place better during acceleration and hard cornering. Then, you should probably get the short shift kit ($400) and the shifter ($300) to go along. You will need the RS aerokit (wing $700-aftermarket, splitters $800, skirts $1100) to match the shifter. Now, it looks like an RS, but, it is really a lead sled - so, you will need the RS engine kit $15,000 and a rebuild $10,000. Now, all that is missing is the transmission $10,000. We forgot brakes at $2,000 to match the body and you will absolutely need the Speedline wheels at $5,000 to tie it all together.
Bob
I'd add that solid rear sidemounts is a great addition on a lowered car. add ~$450
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#9
Guru
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
#10
Banned
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Also have a question on RS camber plates and mounts...does someone have a list of the RS parts? Or would you recommend a different product?
#11
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you use RS springs and shocks you might as well use RS camber plates and mounts, there are aftermarket versions that work as well for less $.
Remember that besides the shocks and top mounts you need all the spring mount hardware too the spring mounts have to match the springs
the RS front shocks were a double tube design, you don't want them, you want monotube rebuildable Bilstein or H&R Cup shocks or some other monotube design.
Mode, ERP, Elephant and Rennline all have their own designs, you will have to do some due diligence and decide what's important to you as there is some variation in design among them.
#12
Banned
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It would depend on how low you go, at RS height - no, at Cup/RSR height - yes
If you use RS springs and shocks you might as well use RS camber plates and mounts, there are aftermarket versions that work as well for less $.
Remember that besides the shocks and top mounts you need all the spring mount hardware too the spring mounts have to match the springs
the RS front shocks were a double tube design, you don't want them, you want monotube rebuildable Bilstein or H&R Cup shocks or some other monotube design.
Mode, ERP, Elephant and Rennline all have their own designs, you will have to do some due diligence and decide what's important to you as there is some variation in design among them.
If you use RS springs and shocks you might as well use RS camber plates and mounts, there are aftermarket versions that work as well for less $.
Remember that besides the shocks and top mounts you need all the spring mount hardware too the spring mounts have to match the springs
the RS front shocks were a double tube design, you don't want them, you want monotube rebuildable Bilstein or H&R Cup shocks or some other monotube design.
Mode, ERP, Elephant and Rennline all have their own designs, you will have to do some due diligence and decide what's important to you as there is some variation in design among them.
#13
Rennlist Member
![Smile](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon7.gif)
Sorry to tell you this, but the RS suspension was built by the factory in 1994/95 on available components...this technology is a wee bit long in the tooth IMHO...I say this because I can really afford all the genuine RS stuff...but I do have a little
RS Motor Mounts
RS Tranny Mount
RS Side Skirts
RS Front and rear sway bar
RS Front Splitters (Sold them)..went to a 993 RS CS tail and GT2 front splitters
Short Shifter
Non-factory stuff
ERP camber plates
ERP rear shock mounts
ERP Camber Arms
ERP Toe Arms
Walrod front bushings
FD Motorsports shifting Rod
FD Motorsports muffs (Stock for the 92 dB effect needed at laguna Seca)
Fab Speed 200 cell cats and X pipes
Andial semi-LWF and Andial recommended clutch with 50,000 mile on her.
For suspension I have PSS9s with stock springs and valving
For wheels, I use O-Z Allegritta from Tire Rack, $1,700 delivered.
After all is said and done, I recently drove a Cayman S. Good god do they handle, quiet too and haul ***. If you want the best of all possible worlds, for cheap, try a 2003 996 Turbo...it's like driving around in a comfortable leather chair..yes they do handle, and yes they go very fast, quickly. A early GT3 is another late model rocket ship with lots of handling and incredible power.
I hope "Baby" (My 993) doesn't read this; she might conclude I was pondering an affair, and kicking her to the curb, not really, just flirting a bit. I love my little 993 RS CS poseur car, and street legal in California too.
RS Motor Mounts
RS Tranny Mount
RS Side Skirts
RS Front and rear sway bar
RS Front Splitters (Sold them)..went to a 993 RS CS tail and GT2 front splitters
Short Shifter
Non-factory stuff
ERP camber plates
ERP rear shock mounts
ERP Camber Arms
ERP Toe Arms
Walrod front bushings
FD Motorsports shifting Rod
FD Motorsports muffs (Stock for the 92 dB effect needed at laguna Seca)
Fab Speed 200 cell cats and X pipes
Andial semi-LWF and Andial recommended clutch with 50,000 mile on her.
For suspension I have PSS9s with stock springs and valving
For wheels, I use O-Z Allegritta from Tire Rack, $1,700 delivered.
After all is said and done, I recently drove a Cayman S. Good god do they handle, quiet too and haul ***. If you want the best of all possible worlds, for cheap, try a 2003 996 Turbo...it's like driving around in a comfortable leather chair..yes they do handle, and yes they go very fast, quickly. A early GT3 is another late model rocket ship with lots of handling and incredible power.
I hope "Baby" (My 993) doesn't read this; she might conclude I was pondering an affair, and kicking her to the curb, not really, just flirting a bit. I love my little 993 RS CS poseur car, and street legal in California too.
#14
Banned
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sorry to tell you this, but the RS suspension was built by the factory in 1994/95 on available components...this technology is a wee bit long in the tooth IMHO...I say this because I can really afford all the genuine RS stuff...but I do have a little
RS Motor Mounts
RS Tranny Mount
RS Side Skirts
RS Front and rear sway bar
RS Front Splitters (Sold them)..went to a 993 RS CS tail and GT2 front splitters
Short Shifter
Non-factory stuff
ERP camber plates
ERP rear shock mounts
ERP Camber Arms
ERP Toe Arms
Walrod front bushings
FD Motorsports shifting Rod
FD Motorsports muffs (Stock for the 92 dB effect needed at laguna Seca)
Fab Speed 200 cell cats and X pipes
Andial semi-LWF and Andial recommended clutch with 50,000 mile on her.
For suspension I have PSS9s with stock springs and valving
For wheels, I use O-Z Allegritta from Tire Rack, $1,700 delivered.
After all is said and done, I recently drove a Cayman S. Good god do they handle, quiet too and haul ***. If you want the best of all possible worlds, for cheap, try a 2003 996 Turbo...it's like driving around in a comfortable leather chair..yes they do handle, and yes they go very fast, quickly. A early GT3 is another late model rocket ship with lots of handling and incredible power.
I hope "Baby" (My 993) doesn't read this; she might conclude I was pondering an affair, and kicking her to the curb, not really, just flirting a bit. I love my little 993 RS CS poseur car, and street legal in California too.
RS Motor Mounts
RS Tranny Mount
RS Side Skirts
RS Front and rear sway bar
RS Front Splitters (Sold them)..went to a 993 RS CS tail and GT2 front splitters
Short Shifter
Non-factory stuff
ERP camber plates
ERP rear shock mounts
ERP Camber Arms
ERP Toe Arms
Walrod front bushings
FD Motorsports shifting Rod
FD Motorsports muffs (Stock for the 92 dB effect needed at laguna Seca)
Fab Speed 200 cell cats and X pipes
Andial semi-LWF and Andial recommended clutch with 50,000 mile on her.
For suspension I have PSS9s with stock springs and valving
For wheels, I use O-Z Allegritta from Tire Rack, $1,700 delivered.
After all is said and done, I recently drove a Cayman S. Good god do they handle, quiet too and haul ***. If you want the best of all possible worlds, for cheap, try a 2003 996 Turbo...it's like driving around in a comfortable leather chair..yes they do handle, and yes they go very fast, quickly. A early GT3 is another late model rocket ship with lots of handling and incredible power.
I hope "Baby" (My 993) doesn't read this; she might conclude I was pondering an affair, and kicking her to the curb, not really, just flirting a bit. I love my little 993 RS CS poseur car, and street legal in California too.
#15
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I use and like the Rennline rear monoball shock mount, it has oe seals. They should work w/ the PSS shocks, if there is any doubt call Rennline up and talk to them, one of them has a very track oriented 993. On mine w/ Cup shocks I needed the 12mm bushes, AFAIK only Moton uses the 14mm bushes