My pax door checkstrap is clicking. Looks like the doorajmb end is loose inside the jamb.
I was quoted $880 to fix it by a very reputable shop. They are not going to remove the fender, but rather they will cut out the area around the check strap anchor to access the back side, install a new strap, weld the panel back in and respray the jamb. They said this way there will be no evidence it was ever done.
What have others paid to fix this annoying 993ism?

 

Here are some pictures of the post with door and fender removed. Thought they might be helpful

 

This is one of those reasons to hate the 993. It's a crappy design by PORSCHE and is costly to repair. It's a metal fatigue issue, so staying on top of the lubrication wasn't really a factor. I have a friend who mentioned it cost him $1200 to have his fixed, so the number you mentioned is not out of line.

 

To hate the 993 over this is asinine. Yes its annoying, but its essentially a voluntary repair. It doesn't prevent the car from operating in any way. Not to mention, it can be welded up externally, and painted, to look pretty good for about $150.

I'd say the valve guides are much better reason to dislike the 993. Then again, I guess that would mean the IMS would be a good reason to hate the 997.

 

Correct - this should be a $100 - $150 repair

 

I disagree that this is a $100-$150 repair; The "cheap" repairs are just disguising the real failure of the door check on the forward side of the door pillar. IMO the $880 quoted for a proper job is reasonable, as I have gone through this repair myself; removed door, ground out old broken weld on front of door pillar, re welded bracket and reinforced door pillar over rewelded area, not to mention repainting door jamb and replacing door, etc. A proper repair will last forever, a $100-$150 spot weld will break again.

Just my personal experience and opinion.

Phil

 

My repair was a massive $50 .... and here's betting it will last the life of the chassis.
I prepped the jamb/strap ear bracket for welding with a deremel tool & various bits while leaving the door in place: then, a highly competent welder TIG'd the unit for me - thus the $50 [ hang a wet towel&cardboard shield around the area, as a TIG can splatter to burn anything near].

To follow, I smoothed out the contours of the weld with the Dremel, primed & painted - done!

The long term protection is to remove the check strap from the door, pry apart the housing and cut ~0.050" away from the friction blocks .... this still functions perfectly, and is described here in p-car.com ..... and by doing this, much of the stress on the jamb bracket is eliminated.

 

Thanks Garth, that is exactly what I planned on doing, except TIG welding it myself (I am reasonably competent at it)