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Aftermarket HID - so many to choose from

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Old 08-29-2009, 02:18 PM
  #16  
rich c4s
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I installed the slim ballasts from EBAY seller FTJ2000 about a year ago. They are great! No 'alterations' needed. This was truly plug & play. I did decide to install a fuse, but this was totally over-protection.

Take a look at this thread for more info... https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...rket-hids.html

I selected the 4300k for true white and most lummens. The difference from stock is amazing! No more overdriving the headlights at night. My HIDs are brighter than the stock hi-beams. In fact I don't use the hi-beams any more.... well except for the occasional 'flash' for passing.
Old 08-29-2009, 03:28 PM
  #17  
reynwerkes
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How's the beam spead? No blinding on coming cars?
Are there any "hot" spots?
Sorry for all the questions but I've got a buddy that's been wanting to improve the lighting on his car and I suggested the best he could do is use a slightly better bulb like Silverstar.
In my experience I haven't seen an HID retrofit that works well with an OEM halogen set up without having hot spots or blinding on coming cars.
If this kit does indeed work then it'll be a way better upgrade then a "regular" bulb.
thanks!
Old 08-29-2009, 04:52 PM
  #18  
e9stibi
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I have no issues with blinding other cars. I am not sure what 'hot spots' mean but the kit works. It is a 'night and day' difference. Just do it and you know what hundreds of 993 owners that did the upgrade mean.
Old 08-29-2009, 05:29 PM
  #19  
Yellow
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Finally getting round to the Retro Solutions install, but probably need to fab a connector from the H1 (into Ballast) to the original Halogen connectors, correct?
Old 08-29-2009, 05:33 PM
  #20  
reynwerkes
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Originally Posted by e9stibi
I have no issues with blinding other cars. I am not sure what 'hot spots' mean but the kit works. It is a 'night and day' difference. Just do it and you know what hundreds of 993 owners that did the upgrade mean.
The OEM ellipsoid set up is very precise and usually requires that the portion of the bulb actually emitting light is set at a specific point. Most HID bulbs are rebased D2 bulbs and consequently generate light at a point no where near where it's supposed to be. So light output is compromised as is the beam pattern.
However, I have heard of new bulbs that are actually made specifically for each application, like H1 and H4 so maybe these are the new technology.
I'll tell my buddy about it.
Thanks.
Old 08-29-2009, 05:53 PM
  #21  
mongrelcat
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Originally Posted by Yellow
Finally getting round to the Retro Solutions install, but probably need to fab a connector from the H1 (into Ballast) to the original Halogen connectors, correct?
You don't have to do so, but it makes for a clean, easily reversible, plug n' play setup:



Originally Posted by 993C4Smontreal
ok, some questions before I tackle this DIY...

I have labelled the different parts 1- 4. please refer to these numbers when helping.

1) you say:
If you put a "bullet connector" on the black HID kit wire (red arrow points to it in the photo below), you can plug the black HID kit wire directly into the brown OEM wire's barrel connector.

Q. which black HID wire are you referring to? 3, the one that has a red and black wire coming out of it? if so, where does the red wire from that cable go and how?

2) do i need that wire labelled #4?

thanks,
sam
Originally Posted by Chris W. - '96 Targa
Hi Sam,

Using your picture and number labels, here's how things connect together from an electrical perspective:
  • The HID bulb's red/blue wires (#2) plugs into the corresponding red/blue wires for the ballast/igniter (#1).
  • In your picture, (#3) has two sets of wires, both the same (one for each headlight). One of the sets of wires in (#3) plugs into the red connector for the ballast (#1).
  • This leaves only two wires unconnected for the HID kit: the black and red wires in (#3). Here's how they connect:
    • The black wire in (#3) gets the bullet connector attached to its end. This is then plugged into the barrel connector on the brown wire from your factory wiring harness. (In electrical terminology, this is the ground wire for the light circuit.)
    • The existing spade connector on the red wire in (#3) plugs into the yellow wire from the factory wiring harness. This yellow wire is the one that originally plugged directly onto the end of the old halogen bulb. You just put the spade connector from the red wire right into the factory connector on the yellow wire. (In electrical terminology, the yellow wire is the +12V power source for the light circuit.)
  • The wires in (#4) are not used.

That's it. The rest is just packaging -- getting everything to fit into the headlight bucket.



-Chris
As for the bullet connector, these work well for me:



http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(ue...aspx?SKU=34706
Old 09-11-2009, 12:17 AM
  #22  
rdevany
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Originally Posted by Yellow
Finally getting round to the Retro Solutions install, but probably need to fab a connector from the H1 (into Ballast) to the original Halogen connectors, correct?
Installed Retro Solutions (RS) (www.retro-solutions.com) 55W H1 slim ballast HID kit last weekend. The install was plug and play with the exception of minor filing (5 passes max) of the aluminum H1 bulb slot. A connector fab is optional. I found that the stock connectors mated acceptably with the RS HID kit and went with it. This wasn't obvious at first, since a flat pin (ground) in the RS HID kit is inserted into the stock barrel connector. The RS Kit fits in the Bosch can with room to spare. The lighting performance is astounding. Two thumbs up.

Last edited by rdevany; 09-11-2009 at 12:33 AM.
Old 09-11-2009, 01:32 AM
  #23  
Falcondrivr
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I did cheapo ebay 5000K, slim ballast, think I paid ~ $100 2 years ago.
Love it and am now thinking I need them for the wife's MDX...
Old 09-11-2009, 06:31 AM
  #24  
Peter B
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Here's a photo of the inards using the compact "ace-parts" kit from Ebay
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