A day cleaning the ride
06-03-2009, 03:43 PM
#35
Racer
Thread Starter
Gentlemen,
Thanks again for the kind remarks. I was out for the day but will try to respond to previous posts later today. As far as what was used on the different parts of the car, Mike would be the one to ask. Mike, you know better on the materials and techniques. I understand but you would give a better explanation - please feel free to add comments.
John
Thanks again for the kind remarks. I was out for the day but will try to respond to previous posts later today. As far as what was used on the different parts of the car, Mike would be the one to ask. Mike, you know better on the materials and techniques. I understand but you would give a better explanation - please feel free to add comments.
John
06-03-2009, 04:29 PM
#36
Race Car
I'll answer the questions I can since John said it was OK. I didn't want to hijack his thread.
I used the Trizact system with a 3000 grit wet disc. The grit is so fine it is like giving your car a really good scrub. The Trizact application with 3000 grit wet disc doesn't even remove the orange peel from the factory. You are also using a 1/2" sponge pad between the DA and the 3000 grit disc. VERY VERY light sanding application. You saw the results it just cleans the paint really good.
We talked last night, but for others wanting to know. I use a heavy solution of carwash soap and water. You apply the soap solution to the sticky side of the stone guard as well as the car. Position the stone guard and squeege out the water and that's it
We removed the lights (plastic lens lights only) mounted the high speed buffer on a table and sanded them with Trizact 3000 grit wet disc on a DA. We buffed them out using a polishing pad an 3M plastic polish.
The stone guard were polished with Meguiar's Clear Plastic Polish. Makes them blend into the finish. Tailights were removed for sanding and polishing
First off the sanding is done with a DA sander not the PC. The reason the sanding did not go up to the edges was to prevent burning them. Doing this system and all the buffing the finish blends. As I said before this is just a good scrubbing on the paint.
Well you weren't next to the car. Not trying to instigate anything here, but the car's finish was 14 years old and had surface acid rain spots, multiple scratches, dulled clearcoat and so on. John did clay bar the car and it did remove surface contamiments, but a polish didn't bring it to a suitable level. The 3000 grit wet setup is a touch stronger than an agressive claybar. As stated earlier this is like giving the paint a good cleanse. The sanding marks left behind are buffed out using a fine cut compound with a sponge buffing pad, that's how light it is. This system won't even flatten out the factory orange peel. The car did need it IMHO and the results are far superior to a medium polish application. We tried that first
Mike
help me with the wet sand process...do you simply keep the sandpaper wet as you sand with a P-C? I noticed two things:
1) the sanding didn't seem to go right up to body panel edges nor did it look like you sanded the bumpers?
2) why put the tail up on blocks? Less bending over?
thanks mate.
1) the sanding didn't seem to go right up to body panel edges nor did it look like you sanded the bumpers?
2) why put the tail up on blocks? Less bending over?
thanks mate.
Well you weren't next to the car. Not trying to instigate anything here, but the car's finish was 14 years old and had surface acid rain spots, multiple scratches, dulled clearcoat and so on. John did clay bar the car and it did remove surface contamiments, but a polish didn't bring it to a suitable level. The 3000 grit wet setup is a touch stronger than an agressive claybar. As stated earlier this is like giving the paint a good cleanse. The sanding marks left behind are buffed out using a fine cut compound with a sponge buffing pad, that's how light it is. This system won't even flatten out the factory orange peel. The car did need it IMHO and the results are far superior to a medium polish application. We tried that first
Mike
06-03-2009, 04:57 PM
#38
Nordschleife Master
I used the Trizact system with a 3000 grit wet disc. The grit is so fine it is like giving your car a really good scrub. The Trizact application with 3000 grit wet disc doesn't even remove the orange peel from the factory. You are also using a 1/2" sponge pad between the DA and the 3000 grit disc. VERY VERY light sanding application. You saw the results it just cleans the paint really good.
Mike
Mike
06-03-2009, 05:06 PM
#39
Race Car
See this link. We did Steps 2,3,4. Step one is more agressive, but his car did not need it.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...-Small/Step_2/
Mike
06-03-2009, 05:17 PM
#40
Nordschleife Master
The Trizact 3000 System refers to te 3000 grit paper (disc) used. Not the entire process.
See this link. We did Steps 2,3,4. Step one is more agressive, but his car did not need it.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...-Small/Step_2/
Mike
See this link. We did Steps 2,3,4. Step one is more agressive, but his car did not need it.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...-Small/Step_2/
Mike
06-03-2009, 05:23 PM
#41
Nordschleife Master
Guys, don't all jump up to go & get a wet sanding system!!!
Wet sanding is for extreme paint fixing, & then REQUIRES machine polishing after. Machine wet sanding can remove a lot of paint really fast!
In untrained hands, you will remove all your clear coat, or damage it enough to need a paint job. This really is a job for pro's.
Wet sanding is for extreme paint fixing, & then REQUIRES machine polishing after. Machine wet sanding can remove a lot of paint really fast!
In untrained hands, you will remove all your clear coat, or damage it enough to need a paint job. This really is a job for pro's.
06-03-2009, 05:29 PM
#42
Race Car
Thanks Mike, and apologies for all the questions, but this looks like something I could do if I got the right tools and was very methodical and careful. What type of DA sander do you use? Is it the 'water feed' type? If not, how do you keep the surface wet, (sponge as you work?)
It is a Hutchins 7544 Wet Sander See here for instructions:
http://www.hutchinsmfg.com/images/75...structions.pdf
It is a water fed type, but that is good for panel jobs not a whole car because you have to keep moving the bucket of water with you. Just pre-soap the panel you are working on. Always keeping it soapy wet.
Mike
06-03-2009, 05:35 PM
#43
Race Car
Stealth 993 does have a valid point here. If you want to try this system. Do it on a beater or a car you don't mind testing your skills on. When I first did it I used my riding lawnmower's hood. On the other hand this system I did on John's car is the least aggressive. Can you burn paint? Yes, but you can do that with a buffer too even if you don't sand. So be careful once you get your skills down move on to something more important. Honestly it is not that hard, but you do need to take care because you can burn paint.
Mike
Mike
Mike
Mike
06-03-2009, 05:37 PM
#44
Race Car
Guys, don't all jump up to go & get a wet sanding system!!!
Wet sanding is for extreme paint fixing, & then REQUIRES machine polishing after. Machine wet sanding can remove a lot of paint really fast!
In untrained hands, you will remove all your clear coat, or damage it enough to need a paint job. This really is a job for pro's.
Wet sanding is for extreme paint fixing, & then REQUIRES machine polishing after. Machine wet sanding can remove a lot of paint really fast!
In untrained hands, you will remove all your clear coat, or damage it enough to need a paint job. This really is a job for pro's.
Have you ever used the Trizact 3000 grit system? Just curious because you really seem to be an expert on the matter
